AndrewG

Why don't you just replace the VC? The setup works well under all conditions.

I think the standard setup gives you a starting (as same as before) handling point, albeit with reduced body roll. You can use ARBs to change the degree of understeer and oversteer by changing the settings. If I used the car on the track then I would experiment with different settings, but I don't so I haven't.

Tom, I set mine up as per instructions (middle back, soft front). Have you fitted the front arb? Update - I see from your other post that you have fitted the front arb. What difference were you looking for? I found that body roll was significantly reduced on cornering.

That wasn't quite what I was getting at, as I should have said with all the hidden roof bits painted black too. It is just when the targas are in, then the whole surface (windscreen, roof elements, targas and tailgate glass) become a single visual "black" entity. When the targas are out you are left with a black H shape in the roof surface which breaks the visual effect, as your eye now sees the interior components of the car. So the H part is now smaller visual element between the windscreen and tailgate glass and to me looks better in the dominant body colour.

To me it looks plain odd when the targas are out with black roof bars. Perhaps it is colour sensitive.

Settings are described in the Stillen installation guide: 304700~inst.pdf

They go into the chassis frame rail internals. From my understanding of the system they have two roles. Firstly, air is drawn through them into the CC when the CC is purged of petrol vapours into the engine. Secondly, if the CC becomes saturated (normally this would be when the engine is switched off) then petrol vapours are vented back into the frame rails.

The one I removed (goes valve plate assembly) is the same one you tee'd with the 12mm. Glad the modification works for you.

Very nice. Can you not get those dents beaten out? A silversmith (for example) would have the right sort of tools to work on a soft material this.

Sure, that's the plan along with the 2.5" pipework.

You mean these ones (lower green arrow)? It is a strange setup isn't it? There is no valve in the black plastic connector (bottom right) which tees the two 12mm pipes. So the 6mm and 12mm pipes seem to be doing the same job. I connected the new GTST CC bottom connection to the frame rail connection: The other small pipe going into the frame rail - I removed the valve plate assembly: (I also deleted all the redundant CC hard lines running from the engine compartment to the old CC).

If you keep the bleed valve open whilst pumping air will be drawn back in through the bleed valve when you release the pedal. There was little/no resistance to start with and gradually as the air was expelled it built up. We pumped quickly 1,2,3,4 pumps, hold down on last pump - open bleed valve (~half turn), close *then* release pedal. Repeat again and again...

Lisa, I changed out the slave cylinder and pipe a while ago. Getting the air out of the system was frustrating to say the least. I found out (the hard way) that the procedure in the FSM had to be followed. The key seem to be pumping the pedal several times in quick succession and whilst keeping the pedal depressed opening the bleeder to release the air (it gives a "pssst") under pressure. Close the bleeder before raising the pedal for the next cycle. Keep a close eye on the reservoir to make sure the level of brake fluid stays above MC. The reservoir drains quickly during the bleeding process. I remember we did quite a lot of those cycles to get all the air out.

He has confirmed the wipers are working on all settings...

Do the wipers work normally otherwise (start and stop and intermittent wipe)? May be related to this (plastic gear): http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/general/view/2478917/Re-Why-do-my-wipers-sometimes-wipe-at-start-up.html

Such a personal choice really. Blue is my favorite colour for the car and is why I ended up traveling all over the UK to find the right one for me. This may help your decision (from the 300ZX enthusiast's guide): 300ZX enthusiast_76.pdf

Have you followed the procedure in the FSM? http://www.300zx.co.uk/tech/manual/manual/cl/008.gif Especially important to do steps c,d and e (usually many times!).

Go on, you will thank yourself later! Carpe diem...

This is the diagram Nissan produced in their UK brochure:

It is, how did you get into the enclosed sill channels?

Welcome back!

I don't suppose that boroscope is still around?

So what will you do when the kids need the other car and the roads are salted?

Are these the final designs?

Here is the link to the online FSM for that page: http://www.300zx-twinturbo.com/cgi-bin/manual.cgi?list=br&dir=&config=&refresh=&slide=47&cycle=off&scale=0&design=default&total=56 If you don't have the FSM, then here is a link to the ABS diagnostics section for you: http://www.300zx-twinturbo.com/cgi-bin/manual.cgi?list=br&dir=&config=&refresh=&slide=30&cycle=off&scale=0&design=default&total=56