AndrewG

Congratulations Dan! Look forward to seeing the car in the metal.

Another temple of velour then!

They look absolutely gorgeous! You must be chuffed to bits.

Good! It's such a nice show to go to. It only feels like yesterday since the last one!

This is my solution: http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?170960-Tweeter-Pods&p=1752974&viewfull=1#post1752974

When you get the rear brakes you can measure the piston diameters of the front and rear calipers together with the pad heights and I will calculate the brake bias for you.

Have fun Craig!

You need the piston diameters of the K-Sport front calipers (there will be 4) and rears (there will be 2) together with the pad heights. You should be able to get the part #s and then dimensions of the pads used from K-Sport who from memory use pads that also fit AP Racing calipers. The disc diameters are known - 356mm (F) and 330mm ® For the calculator take the Cf of the pads to be the same (if you use the same manufacturer/type for front and rear). You will need to convert metric to imperial to use the calculator.

Slats not skirts! Tom's pictures are clearer, but I wanted to show black cars like yours.

For stock calipers, discs and pads then below the split point of the proportioning valve (498psi) the brake bias ratio F/R is 2.1/1 and above the split point the ratio F/R is 3.0/1 The proportioning valve is built into the master cylinder and reduces the hydraulic pressure exerted on the rear caliper pistons relative to the fronts when you apply pressure to the system above the split point. If you like, between light/medium braking and heavy braking. I used this calculator when I fitted the AP racing CP5555 (F) and CP6620 ® brakes/discs to check the new bias which came out very close to stock (both above and below split point of proportioning valve in master cylinder): http://www.tceperformanceproducts.com/bias-calculator/ I steered clear of an adjustable bias valve as a) I didn't need one b) I would have to deal with the built in valve and c) I use the car on the road and didn't want insurance issues.

OK, so slats or no slats?

Well you won't slide around in those Dan!

You got your RR 8.5J sorted?

GReddy are a division of The Trust Company in Japan: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GReddy

CZP can supply new OEM 92101-47P15 AC condensors (R134a): https://conceptzperformance.com/nissan-oem-300zx-ac-condenser-93-96-twin-turbo-tt-z32-92101-47p15_p_7232.php

Keep 'em comin Russ!

Simon, at this point I would take steps to try and obtain a full refund. The business has acknowleged that they have made a mistake which has resulted in poor workmanship and have tried unsuccesfully to redress that to your satisfaction. You have now lost all confidence in their abilities to do the work. Obtaining a refund may include using the Small Claims Court, but at this stage will involve you writing a letter following the details and steps outlined in the CA link below to the business owner (sent by recorded delivery). https://www.citizensadvice.org.uk/consumer/going-to-court/going-to-court/taking-court-action/step-one-write-a-letter-before-action/ Keep copies of all email records and photos of the work done. Keep all communications polite but firm. Don't post derogatory comments on their website or FB pages. It may be possible in the first instance to obtain a refund by threatening court action in your letter and is worth a try at this stage.

This is the visual problem I feel is present with both the Stillen lip or the 99 spec front bumper together with side skirts and stock rear bumper. The OEM visual form for the car with '89 front bumper, sills and the rear bumber is for a curve around and in as the outline approaches the ground. You can see this in the first picture from the '89 marketing brochure (centre diagram). The second and third pictures with the 99 spec front bumper and Stillen lip respectively both with side skirts show the effect of changing that original form but leaving the stock rear bumper. You can see that stock rear bumper looks "tucked in" because of the visual aspect of the front and skirts. To me the even the OEM cars which had 99 spec front bumpers and side skirts looked odd because of this. Just my 2 cents worth.

How are you getting on with those whiteline rear subframe bushes since you emailed me?

Does your car still have the side skirts? Do you want to keep them?

Yes it is - Top Gear episode from 1992.

Be very mindful of body kits as they can hide/obscure corrosion and impact damage.

Option 3 for me - keep the '89 spec nose.