Tudor...

I through mine away when i did my manual conversion :-O

thanks jeff, will check that out.....

mine is different, (stock), sits at the left all the time, and only twitches when you rev it, but moves a bit more when you boot it when driving, but only briefly, and drops back to zero, do ya reckon it's cream crackered? it's also got a mines gauge face on it, which is in kg/cm2, starts at 0.4 and goes up to 1.4...

have you checked the ecu connector?

can you run through a field with no legs?

arrrr, cheers pal, worth buyin ya reckon? or just go down the mobil 1 route...

Hey all, have searched, but still a bit unclear, just wanted your expert opinions on this.... http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/MOBIL-1-OIL-10W-40-5LT-MOB142473-SUPER-S-SEMI-SYNTHET_W0QQitemZ370357113170QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item563b011152 Just wondering why the super s is a lot cheaper than normal mobil one? Will this stuff do??? Cheers for taking time out to answer my monotinus question :)

I have the same little yellow one you have on the right hand side! There's a story too.... I was about 15 (27 now) and was off school and helping my dad at work in a hospital repairing physiotherapy equipment, and some machines that needed servicing were in a store room, so i went to get them. One was a portable on in a brief case typ thing, I opened it to get to the machine, and inside the case was that z model! So, as I've always wanted a Z, and being fifteen, I pocketed it :whistling: I showed it to my dad, and said 'I'm gonna gt me one of these', and he said 'yeah, whatever son, bla bla...' And low and behold, 10 years later, I'm the proud owner of a yellow TT, woohoo! If I can get a picture I'll stick one on..... Sorry to bore ya'll, but I likes that story! :)

turns over fine, battery is good, hmmmmmm, something to think about jimmy, i'll go down the FPR route first i think and take it from there, cheers....

Cheers.......

thanks matey, fuel rail is fine, and it's flooding all 6 cylinders, so it isn't cylinder specific, where is the fuel pressure regulator located? Thanks again everyone....

Reet, thanks mate, starts perfect normally, although only in my garage as she's not on the road yet, complete engine re-build, new plugs and new loom, new (s/c but tested) coil packs, and a few new (s/h but tested) injectors, but as i only start her in the garage and cant give her a run, yeah, smells very rich, but i'm guessing that's because she's always on choke really? Oil is fine, and runs smooth as silk once started....

fuel damper or something maybe? Is that what controls the fuel pressure? Maybe as I turn the key and it primes, it's letting too much fuel in?

Hi, every probably 3rd or 4th time i start her, or try to start her, she wont, and floods, if i remove plugs 1-4 (as the others are a pain) they are soaking wet, dry them off, put em back in and she starts perfectly (well, after a few seconds to dry the other 2 out)... What could be causing it to flood? Cheers.... Tudor.

do you use the original light, or do you need a new/different one?

all the fixing points etc. are there matey... you just have pop off a bung plate for the master cylinder to go through the bulkhead, and a little bit of wiring to do, there's a write up i think in the faq section...

850 isn't that bad for an auto is it? (or am i talking borlocks?) :)

bad connection on the starter motor maybe? do the dash lights/head lights dim when you try to turn it over?

deffo sounds like bottom end that mate, doesn't sound good :(

yeah, deffo too many horror stories, if you can do the journey to zedworld, then do, there's no one better, hope you get it sorted... but let us know if your selling it :D

awwwww, i was gonna bid a quid on that and hope for the best! :)

The red thing i thing you mean, is a manual over ride for the park solenoid, i.e. with the key out of the ignition, you can't take the box out of park until you turn the ignition on (you can't take the key out either until it's in park) if you push that red thing in, it allows you to change the gear without having the key in.... The power lets the car rev more or less up to the limiter, so you get more of the power out of it, it changes up later, but flooring the accelerator does that anyways (you'll see the 'power' light come on the dashboard when you floor it, and the hold button makes the car set off in 2nd, and changes up at lower revs, for driving in snow/ice etc. to reduce the possibility of wheel spin and possible carnage :) HTH, not sure about your overdrive question tho.... And your questions aren't silly, mate, i think we've all asked them at some point! :)

I've got my auto box rad after my manwell conversion, what do ya reckon to using that instead? Just thinking whilst I've got my bumper off.....

it is possible with the dash in, but i took mine off, the harness has a metal plate that holds it in place on the inside of the bulkhead, it has two bolts, 12mm i think (might be wrong), but it is very hard to see or get to, i took the dash out and the air con matrix as it is behind there, proper ball ache, but if i did another i could probably manage it without removing the dash, but until you've done it once, it's very hard to know where abouts that bast*rd metal bracket is! Well worth it in the end tho, i also repaired the dash where it was lifting apart whilst i had it out....

i could turn it around on my own, just gotta be careful, it may gather a little bit of momentum, but there isn't a bearing or anything on the stand, so the friction will give you a helping hand :)