Tudor...

It's a quad cam car mate :-) I agree, i'd say it was a hydraulic lifter, worn or seized, maybe no oil in it, so will be very noisy, unless it could be one of the journals on one of the cams?

Go for it mate, my Z was my first lift and re-build, you'll encounter many problems, but everyone on here will tell ya how to get round em piece of cake, they did with me. Take your time, keep your patience, and as the others said, label things, mark anything that could go back in a different position, take plenty of pictures, and plenty of research (looking at pics etc.) You'll cream in your pants when ya start her back up after the work you've done (I did :-) Have a good'n mate.... :-)

I had a similar problem after a rebuild, had an air lock... Try either undo-ing the drain plug on the bottom corner of the radiator to drain the system (careful tho, it's plastic, so breaks easy) or undo a hose from the bottom of the radiator. Then, with the engine running, and the heater set on hottest and full fan, pour water into the radiator, it might over flow, but get as much as you can in it, as it has an expansion tank, be patient, it takes a while, it also helps to have someone inside the car to check if the heater is giving out hot air, a little rev of the engine helps too, gets the water pump pumping.... If not, then probably something shitty, like a busted pipe, more than likely somewhere you can't reach :-) :-) :-)

Oreet chaps, just asking if anyone has a few exhaust mounts floating around, I need the 2 that attach to the flange on the end of the back box (not the rubber, the metal ones), and the two mounts that attach the end of the down pipes to the bracket on the back of the gear box (it's an auto).... Nissan (as per usual) want an extortionate amount of money for these mounts, so just thought I'd see if anybody had any knocking about.... If not, I'll get my welder out :-) Cheers for all the help you guys have given me over the last month of two :-) :-) :-) Tudor...

Cheers mate, like I said, a little bit skint at the mo, but if you've still got it I'll bite your hands off.... :-) Shouldn't be very long, I'll be in touch, nice one....

Hi all, I've got the good old code 34 after a re-build (I know, I should've replaced it whilst the engine was out, live and learn eh?) I'm just asking if anyone has a working one for sale? I think I'll re-locate it to the usual place. I'm a little short of coin at the moment, but just asking... Get a load of this, I rang nissan today, they want 237 quid and 77p, plus VAT!!!! (Sorry, this laptop I'm on doesn't seem to have a pound sign anywhere :-) I'm sure someone at that garage is on the old 'Hi Diddle Diddle' :-) Cheers all........

Wow, never heard an oil change discussed in such detail! :-)

Hi huys, I've got a 92 jap auto TT. I bought it and have done a full engine re-build, still haven't drove it, but will soon :-) :-) :-) Anyway, the turbo boost gauge isn't working, and there was an after market gauge in the car, but not connected. Also, one of the boost pipes, i think comes from the IC hasi been spliced, as if it was ready for the new gauge, it is bunged up tho. Do you think the stock one has been dis-connected from the dash? (It has got aftermaket dials on it, so I know someone has had the speedo out). Any thoughts'd be nice zedders...... Nice one... Tudor.

Something else you can try, is take off the CAS, and turn the centre of it, with the ignition on, not too slowly, you should hear the injectors click, and if there is six clicks all in equal positions of the rotation, then it should be injecting, possibly blocked? If it doesn't click as it should, take off the plug from the injector (careful tho, the plastic becomes very brittle) and see if it is corroded (check the plug and the injector connector) it'll look a minging green colour if it is, clean it up and try it again. Also, swap the spark plug over for one you know works, and see if there is any difference.... Hope this helps mate...

My coolant temp sensor is coming up on the diagnostic, but have recently replaced it (all be it a second hand one) after a full engine re-build, not had it on the road yet, and seems to run fine, but when I get it on the road, what problems could it cause me. Also, how do I reset the ecu after a diagnostic? Cheers guys...

Also, when ya put the box back on, don't forget the ground cable that goes on one of the bolts, also, mine is an auto, and another on of the bolts holds a fixing for the dipstick, I mad the mistake of forgetting about that, not much fun, make sure you put the dipstick on earlier rather than later. Hope this helps mate.....

Standing behind it if the car is above you, if it's on stands, then lying on your back. Your best off with half inch drive and a pnuematic (I can't spell that :-) impact wrench, makes life alot easier, if not, then good old elbow grease. Lower the back of the box so ya can see the bolts as your looking above the top of the box, a torch helps alot with this, then ya can get your ridiculously long socket on the bolts, then you'll be laughing mate, just mate sure as your lower the box, the engine will tilt, so don't crush anything, another person helps make this job alot quicker....

Put a jack under the back of the gear box mate, and slowly lower it, but keep your eye on the wiring loom between the engine and body, so nothing gets crushed, then you can get your 3 x 30cm extensions at the bolts whilst lying at the back of the box. A torch is a big help :-)

If it was the CAS, you would think it would show up on the diagnostic, but it doesn't, but I do get randomly the det. sensor, but only occasionaly, any helps really appreciated guys, this is gettin on my tits now :-) Just wanna hear the beast roar, not just splutter on four cylinders, hehe......... Nice one.... Tudor...

Wow, thanks guys..... Yeah, I've got the fuel pipes on correctly, and I turned the car over with the return pipe off, and it's pumping through nicely.... Anyway, the situation has slightly changed now.... I had left a plug off without knowing, from a sensor at the back of the plenum (not sure which it is). So, I started her up, and she started, but only on what sounds like 4 cylinders (?) There seems to be fuel going through now, and a spark, but it isn't igniting, sounds like timing, and also it now is only detonating in cylinders 1 and 2, so it's got worse, which is making me think it could be the CAS? Although the CAS has been removed, I marked it and it is back on in exactly the same position, and I have cleaned up the connectors too, maybe it's knackered? I think I will try turning the car over whilst slightly adjusting the CAS, it's all I can think of! Thanks again ZedHeds, top geezers!!! Tudor...

Someone has already said this, but try un plugging it and cleaning the connectors on the PTU and the plugs that go into it, mine wouldn't start, but after cleaning the PTU up it was fine. You might want to just upgrade it, but if money is tight then try cleaning it up first mate......

I'm guessing the CAS is the crank angle sensor? It isn't showing up on the diagnostic. Strangely tho, about 1 in five tests gives me code 34, det. sensor, wierd, but other tests give me 55, all good. I have had a problem with the det sensor before, and i seem to remember that it stopped the spark, but I've got a spark. It's got to be something to do with the fuel line, is there anything after the fuel filter that could be causing it? I've had a good look for kinked pipes, dodgy wires/plugs etc, but no joy..... Cheers chaps...

Thanks guys, there is no smell of fuel from the exhaust, i haven't put it on yet, so i can get my head right under it whilst turning it over, and no smell of petrol... What is the CAS? (sorry for sounding numb :-)

Hi guys, just seeing if anyone has any ideas... I've just done a full re-build, re-bore, oversized pistons etc. I have fully put the engine back in, but, when i tried to start it, it would turn over but not fire up. I did an ECU diagnostic, which told me it was the det. sensor, after further examination, i discovered that one of the wires was broke on the plug from the det. sensor. I have repaired this, but still no joy, it turns over beautifully, and there is a spark, and after removing a couple of spark plugs to have a look at them, they are dry, and no smell of petrol. Could this be a fuel issue? Also, if the det. sensor was faulty, or the PTU, would there be a spark? If not, then I can eliminate these, as there is a spark... I have removed the fuel pipes going to the fuel bar (next to the balance bar) and there is pressure (I know that because I got covered in petrol :-) So the pump is working, plus, I can hear it kick in when I turn the ignition on... Any ideas? Any help would be greatly appreciated, I really want to get her going after the graft I done on her! Cheers guys....

Hey all, does anyone know of an easy way of gettin the small pulley off the end of the crank shaft so I remove it? (at the front, the small on behind the main crank pulley) Everything else has been removed, but can't seem to remove the crank shaft without taking this off. Is it just a case of pulling it off? I've got a puller, but there is very limited room to get aroung the pulley, so no use... Cheers...

That's what I thought, I'll make the new piston identical in weight to a standard one... I know what you mean guys, but I just haven't got the funds at the moment, and I've had the car over a year now, and never driven it, due to working away alot of the time. But now I'm back at home, and can crack on with it. I've mastered liftin these engines, I can have one out and mostly stripped down in a day, so if If I've got money to spare in the near future, (which if all goes well I will have) I'll just whip it out again and do the lot. The inside of the cylinders are perfect, not even a trace of a lip from wear, it's only done 50k... Thanks peeps anyways....

I know what ya mean mate, but all the others pots n pistons are immaculate, as is the rest of the engine, how the knob head who had it before me managed to blow the number 4 piston rings, I have no idea, I'm guessing he's carried on driving it, that's what has caused the damage...

Hey all, I've finally got to the root of my problem, piton rings blown and the piston is shot to shit. This has caused a very slight groove in the cylinder. Now, I'm taking it to a place on friday, having the cylinder re-bored, probably will only need about 0.0020" taking out, but this will require an over sized piston. If I only change the one, and make sure the new piston is exactly the same weight as a standard piston, can I get away without replacing all the other pistons? Surely the fractionally greater compression on that cynlinder wont make any difference, will it? Obviously all pots re-bored and a full set of over-sized pistons ain't cheap, so would like to get around doing that if possible! Any advice would be greatly appreciated, cheers you lot! :-)

Wow, speedy reply! Thanks mate, feel kinda thick now, it's not like me miss things like that! Woohoo, that makes life alot easier, ain't gonna have it swinging about over my head on the engine hoist now!:smash: BTW, does anyone know where I can pick up an OEM piston and rings from, for a decent price? Roughly how much are they? I've got a very very slight groove in the cylinder, I really hope I don't have to go down the re-bore and over-sized pistons route, ££££££££! Again, cheers, can't wait to crack on tommorrow, I miss her! :-)

Hi guys, only joined this forum today, so forgive me if I've missed a sticky or something on this... I've got my engine out, again, knackered piston (It's a 93 TT, Auto, Jap import BTW) and was wondering if there are any tips for removing the torque converter? Is it really those 4 bolts on the back of the fly wheel? They seem pretty much impossible to get to with a standard spanner or even an angled ring spanner. Is there any easy way to do this? At the moment I've got it sitting on blocks, and taking the cylinder head off today, she fell off, if it wasn't for me and my Dad's lightning reflexes and adrenaline fueled strength, serious damage could've been done! So I'm eager to get it on my engine stand so I can get to the bottom end... Any help would be appreciated, sorry if I sound numb :-)