Tudor...

Can anybody tell me what revs the gear changes happen, and maybe how many revs till it bites, and any other info to do with gear changes on an auto, during normal driving? (i.e. not flooring it, just driving about) I'm not sure if mine is right or not, it seems sometimes if I have it about 3000 rpm an 2nd, it just seems to rev and not get any faster at all, if i back off the throttle and then start again but a little more aggressive, it drives proper... Fluid level is correct... Does anyone have a TT auto near Bolton who fancies taking me out for a spin, as I have nothing to compare it to, never driven or been in one before! :-)

Maybe it is mate, i've took some pics, but can't find the damn lead for my phone to PC! Watch this space....

My god, those things are wretched! Looks more like a 100NX!

The first thing my missus said when she saw my car was 'it's a bit knight rider ish', and it's yellow! Now she's my ex missus, silly bint, good riddents :-)

It always comes up with upload failed for me, but the picture still works!

I've used a maxima knock sensor from ebay, cos me 25 quid with postage from the states! Works 100% perfect, up yours nissan courtesy, ya should wear a stripy T-shirt and a mask, thievin little so and so's... :-)

Nobody got any ideas???

I know this isn't the right place to put this, but I really need one ASAP, and maybe not everyone looks in the Items wanted section! So here goes... :bow: I'm after just the right hand side top pipe, from the IC to the throttle body intake. My other three are mint, but for some reason this one has fell apart, on the underneath, and I sneakily predict it is the cause of my strange idle problem and the cutting out etc. I know the best route is get a set of nice new shiny chrome ones, but coinage is a bit of an issue at the moment! Have a rummage about folks, someone'll have one lying around!

Cheers for the warnings guys, only taken it for a couple of test drives so far, got a couple of little jobs before MOT (change a couple of brake pipes, take the tint off drivers/pass windows, fit rear fog light, sort my not quite right idle out, and maybe a few other niggly things) then I'll be driving her like a granny till I'm confident to give it the beans in this weather :-) Again, thanks everyone for all your help, I'm sure I'll be askin ya about somethin else pretty soon!

Oh yeah, so they do, scratch that last post then :-)

If that is the case, then (although I haven't got a posh illuminated thingy :-) I would say that it is lit up by tri-colour leds? (i.e. yellow, green, or red). If so, then maybe if ya can open the ballast thing, check all the solder joints out, and generally over haul the whole thing... That's what I would do, but after my earlier antics, what do I know!

Hey chappies, as some of you may remember, I have not been able to get my stock boost gauge working, it sits at the bottom all the time, and doesn't jump to the middle when ya turn the ignition on, and until managed to replace my code 34 with a 55 (woohoo) it wasn't doing anything.... Now, it seems to measure boost fine, but not vacuum, it sits at the bottom and shoots up fine when there is boost. The dial face on it is a Mines one, but starts at 0.4 Kg/CM2 and goes up to 1.4 and does not have negative boost/vacuum on it. Has anyone seen this before? Like I said, as a boost gauge it works perfectly, strange?

I had this problem, fixed it today actually! If you oped the petrol flap, on the hinging side, on the body, there is a little piece of metal that acts as a spring to pop open the flap, pull it out, if it looks ok, then stick it back in but not too far, that should give you enough 'springiness' to pop ya flap open, worked for me! HTH matey....

Is it supposed to be green but just not working?

300+ MPG? That's pretty good mate :tongue: :hyper::hyper:

Ya can get them rubber one piece super doopers things off ebay from a lot of different places, my dad had em on his 407 and they are pretty nifty....

If ya don't wanna take off ya plenum matey, re-locate it, there's plenty of how to threads for it 'knocking' around on here! (pun intended) :-)

It's ok mate, I've relocated it to the top of the plenum, not ideal, but far better that bypassing it, I'd rather have phantom knocking than nothing at all!!! I've fixed it now, see the thread I just put up.... Hope ya get it sorted mate, and a damn sight quicker than me!!!

Ermmmm, No? :-) Something like that mate.... When I dropped my engine back in, I thought I had the connectors from the ECU for the Dett. sensor, and the cam VVT solenoid the wrong way round, it just seemed to look like that regarding the length etc. So I swapped em round, and no wonder the new sensor, and the resistor didn't work, that was because I was puttin the resistor into the VVT plug!!! So, tonight, just for the sake of it, and because I had run out of options, swapped em over again, plugged it into the dett. sensor, and 'Bang, the 34 is gone', happy times!!! Please don't mock me, or send me any insulting PMs, as I already feel very dissapointed with myself, I need a shower, I feel dirty after making such a schoolboy error :hurl: Haha, only messin, anyways, all is good now, my new favourite number is now 55! Thanks to everyone for all the help and advice that you all gave, top geezers.... :bow: :bow: :bow:

Hey hey, I'm happy! :dance: I managed to get rid of that damn code 34 and now have tons of boost, power and an oh so sweet whistle when I plant my right foot, it's only taken me about a month to solve... I relocated a new dett. sensor, still 34, tried a 1 meg resistor, still 34... Oh, I bet anyone famililar with my problem is itching to know how I fixed it, well, I ain't gonna tell ya, it's far too embarrasing :x: :x: :x:

When I re-fitted my engine, a while ago, I did rather stupidly (all be it a simple mustake to make) get the plugs for the dett. sensor and the cam VVT solenoid the wrong way round, maybe that could've done some damage, eek, gonna go and do a continuity test in a minute, once again, fingers crossed! Thanks for the info guys, I'll let ya know how I get on...

I'm in westhoughton, 5 mins from junction 5 on M61....

You shouldn't leave the car idling to warm it up, it's bad for the engine... :-) :-) :-) :-)

I'm gonna check the continuity from the engine bay plug to pin 23 tomorrow, if there is no continuity then I know there is a problem with the loom, however, and I know I am being pessimistic, but I'll be pretty stumped if the loom is ok! Fingers crossed...

Yeah I have mate, I used to be a electro-medical engineer, so got that covered :-) I even tried a variable resistor that I use for test purposes, you can set it to anything up to 1 meg, checked that and it was exactly 1 meg, but still same probs.... Cheers.