Chris300

Thanks Howard. I’ve ordered a R33 CC from a company called TMS Motorsport off eBay. Looked like the cleanest one I could see.

And I give up, I just can’t seem to get these pipes out without taking the condenser rad out so have cleaned around them.

I cleaned up all that oil today so will hopefully be able to spot if it’s an ongoing issue. Oh and just in case you’re wondering I’ll be waxoyling everything when I start putting it back together. :wink:

Cheers Joely. I had a look at a few last night, theirs looked a bit scabby. I did find another one that looked a lot les rusty and better for a restoration rub down.

:lol: Now this is why our forum is better than FaceBook. I found an old post whist looking for something utterly unrelated and thought I’d add to it with a link to something that may have been relevant and interesting to posters of that subject. That subject then goes off on a different angle which in turn leads me to this post. Now I find myself wanting to change my CC for an R33 unit to solve a problem I never knew I had. Great work guys! :clap: Now all I have to do is find and fit the new unit. :yes:

Thanks. Out of interest Andrew have you removed you CC? I was reading this carbon canister delete How To and it seems relatively straight forward.

To open “the “exhaust” area to allow that heated air to exit as well.” Maybe I be got the wrong end of the stick but I thought you were referring to clearing space behind the IC to allow forced air to freely flow through the IC.

Interesting, have you got any more info on this?

I was reading about the removal of the canister behind one of the IC to allow a better flow from front to rear. I must say I’m tempted to do this but not sure if I want to pull too many OEM parts off the car. What else have you done Stephen?

They’re very cheap from eBay

Is that a “99 spec box?

No problem. If I remember correctly it’s connected to the grey connector you can see on the AC condenser canister on the last picture.

Just to add to Jeffs picture

I’ve just stumbled across this post searching for something else and it reminded me of another I read a few days ago which others may enjoy. Not too much on ducting but some other interesting “facts”. https://www.zdriver.com/forums/300zx-z32-tech-tips-273/intercooler-writeup-long-19694/ Anyway, back to what I was looking for.

Have a read here mate. Just post up here if you have any issues. And call me first if you have a white UK manual 300 for sale. :wink: https://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?188198-Club-Membership-amp-Other-Subscriptions

As above. Good luck.

I’m looking at removing the condenser to be able to get those pesky metal intake pipes out. If you’re telling me that I shouldn’t need to then that’s great. :thumbup:

That’s my favourite picture so far! :cool3:

I’d like to but it would be like the blind leading the blind. :closedeyes: I’ll try one and send it to a more experienced member for approval before posting.

Well then I have four questions. Is the coolant rad easy to drain, remove, refit and bleed? I looked for a “How to” but couldn’t find one. How did you remove the AC condenser? I loath to do it as it was replaced last year by Jim and it proved to be a real ball ache for him. (Hopefully a lot easier now all the connections have recently been played with) Did you keep the PS cooler in place or did you remove it from the pipe work? If you removed it how did you bleed it? How did you get on with the oil in the oil cooler, did you flush it through and refill before refitting? Was there bleeding issues as you were worried the oil wasn’t circulating? Cheers, Chris.

Fair point. :yes:

What an epic post! Thank you for linking this to me, it’s given me a boost of confidence for my job (which isn’t in the same league as this). I really liked your first posts, they sounded just like some of mine. :confused1: If it’s ok with you, rather than mess your post up with my questions, I’ll pm you questions I have regarding the strip down. Well done, great job! :thumbup:

Cheers Andrew. I’ve got the bolts off, the valves off and the boost hose off but I still can’t seem to find the angle to get the out.

Does anyone know if the intercoolers metal pipe work come out or was the 300zx actually welded around them? :confused1:

I’ve taken off my fan to remove the recirculating valves and any pipe work for cleaning and found heavy deposits of oil around the power steering cooler pipes behind the valve. I did have low PS oil when I brought the car but topped it up and haven’t noticed a drop in fluid levels.