Chris300

It’s such a shame that we can’t get the tubing and cover to go over new plugs. I would have thought a variety of heat shrink tubing might offer more protection and look tidier than the black tape?

So I think I might have worked out where these clips go. On the attached picture of my bumper and bracket there is a screw holding the bumper to the bracket. Is this where the clip should fit so the bumper pushes onto the bracket?

I don’t recall seeing that clip on either side of my bumper during my strip down. Where does it go Andrew, any pictures of it fitted would be helpful?

I’m going to replace the headlight seal foam on both lights. Has anyone got a template of this product as if it’s not NLA already then I imagine it will be soon?

Have a great time guys. Don’t forget the pictures.

Sorry mate, no idea what you mean.

Thanks Andrew. As it’s an insulator how do you apply it, it kind of seems counter productive to trowel it into the connectors? (Sorry mate, I’m assuming you’ve used this on your connections?) https://www.amazon.co.uk/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2?th=1&psc=1

In addition to this does anyone know what the grease used in some of the connectors is called?

That’s what I’ve said. Not knowing how it’s made up inside though I can’t be sure what’s going on. Might be worth asking on there forum but will wait for Joely to reply.

Just had a reply from the seller who said “They all do that, don’t shake it”. Joely, did yours do this?

Cheers Andrew, it didn’t seem right to me either. I’ll call them up and get a refund.

Joely. I’ve just received my R33 CC. I’m really impressed with the size, it must be at least 1/4 of the size of the 300. I’m a little worried though that it might be damaged as the carbon is falling out the lower hose attachment. Does that sound ok? I’ve put some tape round it for now while I hold onto it before fitting. Cheers, Chris.

Out of interest does anyone know what is used as the “seam sealer”? As you can see in the last picture mine isn’t very nice and would like to get the redone before I touch up the paint around that area. Cheers, Chris.

So here’s a few pictures of the progress in one small area. This is what it was like when I collected the car in autumn 2017 I then asked Jim to get the rust fixed The after a bit more stripping back I’ve got this far. Still a long way to go, but this was by far the dirtiest area in the engine bay.

I slept on this last night and, after a good chat with a friend of mine, I’ve decided not to pull the engine out for now. My friend reminded me that I can be a little impatient and over stretch myself at times. He suggested I do what I can with the engine in, then once that job is done move onto removing the intake manifold. If I still haven’t achieved what I want then I can look at pulling the engine and will have built a better understanding of what’s under the hood with my previous projects.

I don’t have either of these Steven but they don’t look expensive and should last a life time of 300zx maintenance. As for wanting it out, I can’t do what I want to do with the car with it in. My car is, in my opinion, a strong car however I don’t think it will last another 25 years if I don’t get stuck into it now. What with items going NLA thick and fast I want to preserve as much as the car before it starts to go rusty.

I hear what you’re saying and if it was just “another” car then I would agree with you. However this is a 300zx, my favourite car for under £40k, and I love working on it as much as driving it and I think it’s only right that I get to know these cars better (reading about things doesn’t work for me, I need to get involved). I will need a lot of help and there will be days where I’m pulling my hair out wishing I never started this but the car I have in my head will be worth the pain (I hope). PMSL @ OEM- I’d be very surprised if it’s back together by next year, I’m hoping 18 months so ready for spring 2021. If I do pull the engine then I’m going to be reliant on you and others to let me ride shotgun to any meeting you attend.

George, I have a set of 18s that I know fit a 300zx. In my opinion, when refurbed, they look very good on a 300zx. They do need a full refurb and new set of bolts. You’re welcome to come over and fit them before making your mind up. Kosei-Seneka RG wheels

That’s it, I’ve had enough. I’ve come to the conclusion, whist trying to clean up the front end, that I’m not going to achieve the standard of finish I’m looking for with the engine left in place. So I’ve arranged storage of the engine while I’m working on the engine bay. Now all I need to do is pull it out the car. :scared::lol: I know there are a few experts on engine removal and refitting so I think I’ll start a new post on the subject to ask all my silly questions.

Wow, that looks very clean! :cool3:

It doesn’t look like it would be had to fabricate a better fitting duct if you had the oem duct to butcher.

I was reading the info on these IC the other day and this is from their web page... “These giant intercoolers install using stock hardware, and the factory ducts will fit just fine.” https://www.z1motorsports.com/intercoolerbov/z1-motorsports/z1-ba-sidemount-intercooler-smic-set-p-6606.html

Thanks Jim! I did take the PS cooler off today. Mine isn’t too bad but it’s not good enough to go back in the state that it is. So what I might do is try a refurb and if it doesn’t go well I’ll run a line from the HICAS pressure pump to the PS pot.

Thanks for the tip Jim, not heard of this delete before. Just to be sure do you mean the oil cooler or power steering cooler?

It was a bit of a pig to get out and I don’t think I could have removed it without moving the large oil cooler and nudging the metal air intake pipe away. As I’ve got a lot of stuff stripped out already it wasn’t to time consuming, just a squeeze. I can try and make a video if it helps?