JeffTT

Mmm....so easy to misunderstand whats been said in the link especially as far as the ecu is concerned. They (Z1) will "convert" the non turbo ecu for $250 to meet the twin turbo engine? well as twin turbo ecu`s are available for £100 or less that makes no sense except they want to sell you a "chipping" service for your n/a ecu at an inflated price. So from our own experience use a TT ecu and do not worry about the fuel pump issue, all of the N/A to TT conversions we have done the ecu and fuel pump question has never been an issue. Also using a TT ecu you can retain the turbo boost solenoids, just a single signal cable from the ecu, 10 mins work. Personally despite views against it we prefer to retain the solenoids even with a boost controller fitted for a few reasons. Remember boost controllers are non engine / car specific and hence need to be adaptive so retaining the boost solenoid the duty cycle is less stressed and hence more responsive and also in the event of detonation the safety boost can still cut in, yes it will still boost more than standard but a lot less than if left disconnected, as a rule a boost controller set for 1 bar ( 14.5 psi)with the solenoids connected will reduce to around 10psi if detonation is detected, another benefit is the when the engine is cold you will still have the reduced boost level so not 14.5 psi when you make a quick get away in a stone cold engine...which is a good thing. Keep it simple, the easiest way and the most reliable. Jeff TT

Sorry Trev after reading your post ( see below) I thought it was a done deal. No worries guess you may need price options etc. unfortunately your e-mail is still on the office pc so if you want to send again to: jeff@zedworld.co.uk I can pick it up at home and give you any extra details you need. Jeff

Slow down guys as Vijay said a simple misfire is the likely culprit, would account for the lower performance too, check the ptu connections and the coil pack connetcions. Jeff TT

Be aware most landlords hate car repairs, I think they always expect loads of messy oil, reving engines and police visits, which in some cases is exactly right. Jeff

The water over pressure on boost is all you need to know, if combustion pressure is getting into the water system then it`s as I said in my post well hot enough to warp the heads and possibley do other damage too. One thought though sure the rad cap fits well and is not releasing too early giving you a red herring? oh and as far as your e-mail depending on what you decide collection is not problem, will reply with further details in the morning as its on the office pc. Jeff TT

Headgasket question answered above, and "basic" is a little harsh matey.:sad: Jeff TT

To answer TrevZ and others it maybe be best to explain what is been asked in more detail, the cause and the damage that has been caused when head need removing. Ok so when asked about "head gasket" replacement the first question is quite how hot did it get this is essential to knowing how to proceed. Coil packs are a good indicators of these as they often end up jammed or melted into place, cables and rubber pipes on the sides of the engine etc. will often become crytallised by the exessive heat. So we all know the heads are alloy and the block made from cast steel, this in itself is part of the problem, the two metals absorb and loose heat at different rates. This difference comes into play when the block and heads get extreamly hot the expansion rates are not matched and with steel bolts holding the heads down the heads will warp, this warping is why the headgaskets are longer able to seal and then headgasket failure is diagnosed..but of course its the heads which have warped in reality not the headgaskets failed. So moving on, to get to the point where the head (s) warp the pistons and rings have also been subject to extream temperature, and don`t forget the oil that`s lubricating all of the engine bearings and cylinder surfaces has been subject to temperatures beyond the comfortable design, and again don`t forget the turbo`s which can suffer thermal shock along with the block itself of course. So clearly just removing the heads dropping some new gaskets, skimming the heads and bolting it all back together is at best a risk at worse a waste of time. Having worked on many zeds that have previously overheated and required the aforementioned work they often are troublesome engines and very common as they end up been low compression due to ring /piston lands damage not sorted when the heads were off. So again how far to go, well its an engine out for the very reason its less back breaking and so much more can be checked including dropping the pistons out, if these are not checked you very likely wasing any effort doing the heads, of course the heads may have been done before so skimming is a no no then. Now from a purely business point of view, doing anything other than a full and complete job is a must for warranty and customer satisfaction. For this reason in our view its a full inspection or nothing. This is where a known good used engine will often make more sense, one that has good compression and not been subject to the exessive temperature, with the added bonus of been able to do a 60k service, egr removal and plenum bypass before fitting its by far the best bet. Ok hope that`s explained how and why these kind of jobs are not complety clear and how easy it can be to waste time and money on a dead engine, inspection is the key. Jeff TT

For vodkashots Do I have a zed? ........................... :yes: How you getting on with your zed after all that work you did..ok? Jeff My zed http://www.zedworld.co.uk/wizzq.html

Bang on...jeez you have a good memory! Jeff

As per title, check out the you tube movies below, close to my own workshop a local MOT station and Jet petrol station yesterday afternoon in flames. Can`t believe the general public sometimes! continuing to drive past at close quarters whilst a fuel station is on fire :no: Drove past today and the devastation is huge, only hope no one got hurt, the fire service did a sterling job of containing the fire and preventing it from spreading to the fuel pumps and storage tanks, also the local pub adjacent only got a bit of black soot up the front wall. Must of been bloody scarey in the garage when its started, assume from welding spark or something similar, its only a small town and this is big news here, the local paper comes out on Thursdays, it will be major front page news I guess, still I am bemused by the cars driving past as if its just a party barbeque Jeff TT

Top news, well deserved, then again one nice zed. Jeff TT

:rofl::rofl: he fitted them today, well nice. how is the meal invite coming too?? (lol) Jeff

PM me you address, can get one to you by Tuesday. Jeff TT

Ariel timer control unit. Jeff TT

So far very impressed, the low speed bite is very sharp but progressive, the pedal is very firm with no mushyness at all, having said that often brake fluid flush / change are overlooked and can make a world of difference. Jeff

Unfortunately the pics where just after the wheels had been fitted and been jacked and lowered the car had not been moved so the suspension had not settled, having said that we fitted eibach springs the owner had bought elsewhere and was surprised it did not sit a bit lower than it does now. Jeff

Hi all, remember my thread about a super clean low mileage UK zed? for those who do read on for those who don't click the link below http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=132407 Well having had among a lot of unseen upgrades the large calipers did mean new wheels were required and so we fitted a spanky set of 19" rims and tyres, getting a good deal on these at the moment. So enjoy a few pics below. Jeff TT

We all like good brakes and there are many ways to improve your standard set up but of course cost can be an issue. So quite a popular method is to retain the existing calipers and use adapter plates to move the caliper out so a larger disc can be fitted. But get the maths wrong and what looks like an upgrade can be much less than you think. Here is a case in point, bigger 330mm discs fitted using caliper adapter plates give an apparent extra 20mm of disc. But on closer inspection the pads have beome incorrectly position and as a result the pads overhang the disc by around 5mm. Further inspection reveals the inner 15mm of swept disc area is not in touch with the pads, so the 20mm extra has been lost, of course the disc has a longer circumference so still has a very marginal effect on cooling/fade. The pad overhang has caused the bizzare wear pattern and a very noisy set up that squealed like a pig all of the time. In the short term a new set of pads and a good clean up is all we could do until either a return to standard or perhaps a better set up is decided on. So be careful, just because some thing fits its does not mean its better. Jeff TT

Very common for the master cylinder to give up the ghost in the middle of work like this, nothing you have done wrong usually due to the age of the inner components. Try re-bleeding once more at any point and see if air bubles come up through the resevoir, if so a clear indication air is been drawn in at the back seal. Jeff TT

Blocked strainer in the gearbox is the most common cause of loss of drive, usually if left for a little while the fluid draining back to the sump flushes the strainer and drive is back albeit for a short time sometimes only minutes. Debris within the box is the cause of the blockage and although of course this means something is going on inside of the box such as brake and clutch material shedding its still worth dropping the gearbox sump pan and removing the strainer and flushing it out, if possible flushing the gearbox and cooler too. Refilling after with new fluid can potentially give another 6 months of life to the gearbox maybe more, of course there is also a chance it will fail again quickly but then again nothing to loose and might just work. Incidently to any zed auto drivers reading this, the fluid needs changing in autoboxes as parts of a service schedule its this failure to do this which kills autoboxes along with the need to fit better fluid cooling and this is similarly applicable to both UK and import zeds. Jeff TT

Auto box gear slection is done by shift solenoids, this can fail but rarely do, gear drivce clutches do though, usually the gear is in fact has selected correctly but the clutch fails to engage, this can be seen on the ConZult as the gear selects and the line pressure changes but no drive change occurs. Although some odd electrical or bad fluid/filter issues can cause some issues, sadly 99%of the time it means internal gearbox problem, get it checked with a ConZult to be sure, will save you loads of time meassing about. Jeff TT

Almost certainly a bad connection at the bulb holder seen it many times,slightly bear the cable back and check the voltage there, cleaning the bulb holder outer part ( earth ) is usually the solution. Jeff

yes pm back Jeff

You have a pm Jeff

Hi Guys, anyone got a postal addy for slick pete? just to get some parts to him ( not from me though ) or a telephone number...pm is best. Regards Jeff