JeffTT

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!! Jeff TT

The Mongoose name was and still is marketed by Collins Performance as a company they use to have their exhausts manuafactured by another company called Blueflame at that time the fit and quality was first class but sadly the partnership came to an end. Since then the exhausts are made by another company and they are not quite as acurate as they used to be, the change in manufacturer accounts for why some owners have good fitting systems and some not so good. Interestingly the company ( Blueflame) who previously manufactured the systems still do but just not as Mongoose, as the original creator their system may be a better system to look for. http://www.blueflameperformance.co.uk/ Jeff TT

The starter relay is behind the wheel arch splash guards on the DRIVERS side towards the rear if the arch high up, is a large blue relay, if you identify the switch contacts you can link them out as a test. If you turn the wheel on full right lock, you can get a couple of fixings out and pull the arch liner down enough to reveal the relay. Hope that helps Jeff TT

Classic leaking fuel damper causing flooding, check the damper vacuum hose on the balancer bar on the drivers side, if its slightly wet with fuel when pulled off after been running then that`s the cause, also check the temp sensor at the front pipes. Jeff TT

As standard both the UK and import zeds have 4 brake lights and 4 side lights at the rear, so 4 x twin filiments. The UK has a different rear bumper that has 2 x rear fogs built in to it, however only one ( drivers side ) actually is wired up. There are a few ways to get a rear fog light on an import, the less popular but easiest is to hang an after market one of the rear bumper and wire to an illuminated switch at the front that is fed off the side light circuit. Using one of the reverse lights in the same way ( fit a red bulb) is another way. Using a change over relay to use the two inner brake lights is the best in my view. As you have a switch and wiring in place anyone of these methods can be used, I bet the change of rear bumper is where the fog light issue arose, maybe hanging underneath out of sight? Jeff TT

Have tested and warranted used brake boosters in stock £35 + vat, easy enough to change. Jeff TT

When the clutch pedal is depressed the first motion shaft stops spinning in the gearbox and the release bearing is under load, so it still could be the input shaft or idler gear bearing within the gearbox. Jeff TT

Really depends on your own perception of a good clutch, to be fair Craig most guys buy things like clutch units with the wrong information. What we are all looking for is a soft proggressive pedal and no judder or sharp drive take up but 5million BHP power potential because it sounds good. For the main a 25% upgrade is absolutely fine, this is the best compromise it gives all what you want with a bit extra in reserve if you raise the boost a up to the normal 14 psi. and will not cost the earth and does not require an upgraded (lightened ) flywheel if you dont want one. Jeff TT

As a date quality checker your skills will be enable your "new employer" to meet their own high standard criterior Any previous errors you detect early on will prevent incorrect downstream process mistakes, these steps which will save time and money. Again your skills will be best used as supportive cost-intensive error detection and ongoing system repair and problem elimination. Your skills will include active learning to give continued improvements to your new employers exhisting sytems and to ensure customer-specific standards are not only retained but improved upon. Just a few suggestions, change any work descriptions as required. Jeff TT

Remember when ticking over you most likely in these cool weather temps producing as much water in the exhaust than what is been vapour released, you need to raise the exhaust temperature to dry it out and only a long run will do that, also when the engine is not running well, missing or overfulling etc. the exhaust temp will drop and you guessed it will produce even more water and subsequent vapour. Jeff TT

When considering an upgrade clutch the last thing many owners would be thinking about is any early demise of the unit. Check out the pics below of a very poorly RPS clutch plate recently removed from a twin turbo, there had been clutch judder and poor clearance from day one of the install, but eventually a failing gearbox ( noisy in neutral ) forced a gearbox change and hence the clutch been revealed. The bell housing was full of clutch material so early in the strip down it was clear something was amiss, the clutch pedal bite was very high and it was no surprise to see this, however the cause was. Once the gearbox was removed the input shaft float was excessive as was the noise when rotating it, the release bearing was quiet as a church mouse so the gearbox input bearing / idler shaft was defo a gonna. The segmented flywheel looked marked but it was only on closer inspection the cause of the unit failure was revealed. One of the segments was very distorted and in fact was holding the plate at a very odd and not flat angle to the rest of the segments. This is the cause of the damage to the edge of the plate, also the judder and the poor bite, and of course all of this could have been what killed the gearbox bearing? So how and why?.....simply no idea, the unit is a well proven one and was installed by a well know and respected guy and I have no reason to think it was damaged during installation but the damage was unlikely to of occurred in use, so it can only be it was damaged in transit and maybe (speculation) it was not noticed and maybe combined with a dark workshop ?? don`t know. What this does demonstrate is that even a brand new item be it a clutch, engine component or suspension parts inspection BEFORE fitting is vitally important. A replacement gearbox / clutch sorted the zed out and the delighted owner reported it drove like a different car some days later....all good. Jeff TT

HG failure is a serious fault to have and despite many owners concerns it does take some doing to get to that position. Simply if it was ok yesterday and no major incident has occured then dont panic just yet. The condensation that you are getting from the exhaust is just that, especially if its running a bit rough too, most likely a bad connection somewhere, temp sensor, injector ptu etc. Even when these engines are running well they produce loads of water vapour and given we have the past few days had a general change in weather and the change in humidity I would not worry. If the head gasket had a problem so bad water as getting onto the cylinder then you would know big style, overheating and extreme poor starting. Get searching for a bad connection and when sorted take it for a long run, oh and the two sensors at the front one ( the larger one ) is the ecu engine temp sensor and the other single spade one is the dash temp gauge sensor. Jeff TT

Boldy, do not bother with changing the alternator loom, you just making more work for yourself. The auto/alternator loom is just fine and takes a few minutes to convert to manual spec, also the engine / ecu loom between auto and manual is the same. Jeff TT

This should help, cable colours may vary and the second photo is an old, old one so the 12v + is shown in a different location but should give you the idea. Jeff TT ................................................................................................................................................

Look underneath the modem,usually on a label there. Jeff TT

I agree the brakes seem to be his problem BIG STYLE unsettling the car every time, looked like great fun as the drivers but scarey as hell for the passenger! Jeff TT

If the fuse is ok then use the inbuilt diagnostic, reveal the ABS ecu behind the panel on the drivers side rear seat area, there is a small light on there, go for a drive for at least 1 mile, return home and without switching the engine off count the amount of flashes the light does, this will reveal the fault which sensor or an ecu fault etc. The L.E.D. flashes on and off at about 1 to 2 second intervals then leaves a gap of 5 to 10 seconds. Codes set out below Jeff TT 1 Left Front Actuator Solenoid Circuit 2 Right Front Actuator Solenoid Circuit 3 or 4 Rear Actuator Solenoid Circuit 5 Left Front Wheel Sensor Circuit 6 Right Front Wheel Sensor Circuit 7 or 8 Rear Wheel Sensor Circuit 9 Motor and Motor Relay 10 Solenoid Valve Relay 16 or Continuous Control Unit Dash Warning but L.E.D. Off Control Unit Power or Ground

Oh good that will be £6 billion consultation fee :rofl: :rofl: Oh sorry forgot i don`t work for a large bank or building society :whistling: Jeff TT

Yes the UK spec belt is longer, the reason is simple, the water pump pulley is larger on the UK spec cars. There are in fact 5 different water pump pulleys 3x twin turbo one and 2 x N/A ones. The country that the car was originally to be sold in denotes which one is fitted.As far as twin turbo engines go there are three sizes, one for UK, one Europe and one for Japan /US, the N/A has one for the Japan /US and one for Europe. Again the reason for the different sizes is simple, the climate of the country for use in, the water pump speed is increased the smaller the pulley, hence the smaller pulley of the JAP spec TT engine needs a shorter belt than the UK version, the two do not interchange well, with the UK belt been longer if fitted to an import will run put of adjustment before been tight, and fitting a Jap spec belt to a UK engine is hard as the belt will hardly fit even with the adjustment backed off. A good upgrade for a UK car is to fit a Jap spec pulley and shorter belt, will give increased cooling as the pump spins faster for any given engine speed, good idea for boosted engine`s. Be careful when buying belts for an import using a UK based catalogue as it will be UK spec ones. Hope that all makes sense, will take photos of all of the different pulleys on Monday to show what I mean. Jeff TT

Sounds like the accessory circuit power distribution relay, common problem, unfortunately it plugged into the "rear" of the fuse box in the drivers footwell, only way to get to the relay is to remove the fusebox or at least pull it out a little but enough to turn it around, sometimes where the relay is plugged in can corrode and cause the same issue. Jeff

Be aware code 10 is is also low battery voltage, this is often a cause of autobox and other sensor errors. Check the voltage when ticking over ( should be 13.5v - 14.5v ), than check again with all lights and fan on,( should be no less than 13v) if it is check the condition / tightness of the alternator belt and battery connections. Try charging the battery overnight ( even if does not seem flat) then do the tests again, if this time the voltage drop is less then the battery is not holding the float charge and needs replacing, usually a dead or dying cell is the cause. Hope that helps. Jeff

Hello matey, Yes can help you with that parts, do need a twin turbo or non turbo one? Jeff

Very likely the backing plate on the disc, try bending it back a little, can be done through the wheel sometimes. Jeff

Sorry guys have been unindated with enquirys by email the past two weeks, Peter just replied to your e-mail, zxtt just doing two others and yours now. Jeff

Mmm...25bhp increase on a non turbo, would like to see that proven. Still say get a TT ecu and get the conversion done and working for say a month or 1k miles, once all happy just go for a chip and boost upgrade happy in the knowledge all is ok. Jeff TT