JeffTT

Guessing game, we have seen a surprising rise in a particular fault with twin turbo zeds, all of the case we have dealt with are new owners having just purchased the zeds from garages usually sold as seen. The latest zed in question been dealt with today is pictured below, starting with a simple plenum removal can anyone see what is wrong yet? will reveal more pictures in a bit, plenum had been off before and as we see many, many times the old (useless ) gasket had been used ....priceless eh? oh and there is no known garages involved here so its just a little fun guessing game not who did that game!! Enjoy Jeff TT

DOH!!! Here you go WOLFRACE STYLE SLEEVE NUTS WITH TAPER WASHER http://www.graystonengineering.com/wnpmain.htm http://www.speedshack.co.uk/Wheelnuts.htm Jeff

Quite a common problem that sometimes does mean replacing the studs for longer ones. However before you commit to that, if the wheels can accept a long shank nuts that maybe the answer, check out the link below should be some on there, alternatively take a wheel along to a wheel sales shop and get them to check out the wheels suitability for long shank wheel nuts. Hope that helps Jeff

The ends are molded on and not available seperatly, need to drop the roof lining and undo the securing nuts, a good used bar is the best option, have them in stock if you want one. Jeff

Try removing the disc and turning to another set of stud holes in case the run out is at the hub. Jeff

Not sure where you got the idea I was promoting Bluecol long life anifreeze we do not use that for no other reason than value for money for our customers, as flushing would negates any point in buying long life antifreeze. The first link I made showed the normal use antifreeze/ coolant conditioner the second link was to add more detail to the single product issue`s you speak about and the mixing of non OAT technology antifreeze. As far as contacting Bluecol I can only applaud your tenacity for researching the points before posting further, however I do thing you wandered from your original point and keep returning to the OAT technology products when I have already shown not all long life antifreeze uses this so you cannot right off all long life coolant products. I see Bluecol do not agree with your Nissan trained mechanic friend on coolant time changes, see this is the problem with main dealer training, its about making money for the dealership in the main. Surfice to say I am sure the membership have gleamed a lot of useful information from this thread and its always refreshing to see an alternative viewpoint whether it`s from opinion,research or in our case real world experience. Jeff TT

Thought we had established there is no "unsuitable" antifreeze for the zed engine, either long life or regular, either way by changing every year as per the "Nissan trained mechanic" suggests all will be fine. Jeff TT

The "Bluecol extended life is suitable for most modern engine types, including aluminium" The Z32 engine would fall into this category, however the clasic car term cannot be applied to the z32 engine with its multi valve and variable inlet cam timing etc. The Blucol long life coolant is rated VW G12/TL774D this indictates it is a silicate-free spec equivalent and does not contain the same acidic properties of the afore mentioned DEX-COOL and also is phosphate free. The standard Bluecol is fine as is Comma oil one. Jeff TT

Ok see your point about the Nissan trained mechanic advising you of lower milage between coolant changes but not about hIm been a Nissan trained mechanic?? do you mean to say its a qualification requirement to understand antifreeze? and what relevents does that have to modern engines, and what relevents does modern design engines have to the z32 engine? The Wikapedia text you pasted makes reference to Dex Cool in order to make the point about long life coolant been problematic, but the Dex Cool issue is a single issue with a certain manuafacture and in America it went legal, as per over there. ( see link below) http://www.dexcoolsettlement.com/ Seems to me you have confused the original point your trying to make now with one that applies to modern engines and the company in the US when used on GM designed and built engines. Low or non existant antifreeze mix percentage is more of an issue, and especially running a car, any car with a slow but persistant water leak that gets regularly topped up with fresh tap water full of oxygen, metal traces and chlorine. The original point I think you were trying to make has many merits in been aware of coolant adatives, their purpose and the technical way they work and continue ( or not ) to work whilst circulating around our z32 engines and always a good point make at this time of year when antifreeze ( should call it coolant conditioner ) can be the last thing an owner thinks about but its important the year through. Jeff TT

Fitting the wrong battery ( terminals wrongly spaced ) is also an issue where the earth lead does not reach and the connection to the body is undone leaving just a connection to the gearbox bellhousing, bad, bad, bad, but sadly very common. So your saying long life antifreeze contains more acidic properties, check out this link from Bluecol, very informative and seems rather than long life coolant been the problem its mixing long and conventional that is, both are ethylene glycol based anyway but the long life one contains different anti-corrossion additives and when crossed mixed problems can occur. http://www.bluecol.co.uk/index.cfm?page=75 In essence long life coolant is fine provided all traces of old coolant are flushed out first. This is why we use Bluecol in the workshop as it mixes with ALL colours and does not produce nasty side effects. Hope that clears up the misconception about long life coolant not been compatible with zed engines. Jeff TT

Hi Graham, Ok so dont be worring about belt difference, that will be the older belt has stretched a bit. The other issue is its a common misconception that the back plate timing marks line up witn the belt and sprocket markings!! they are only a guide. You need to only concern yourself with the timing belt marks and the cam pulleys and bottom sprocket marks line up, its the teeth count between the relevant markings which is the important bit. Do take extra care on the bottom sprocket, see many, many zeds with timing belts wrongly timed on the bottom cranks sprocket usually by one tooth. Also once the belt is double , double sure its on correct, when the engine is turned over do not expect to see the belt marks line up again with the sprockets and upper cam pulleys, dont know how many times you would need to turn it over to get them to line up again, but would guess its in the thousands. Hope that helps Jeff

:D:D its spooky how well you know me!! :D:D Jeff

A couple of different angles show the Woolpack and closer to the post office, how odd a 300zx been there. Jeff

You clever b?gger. Jeff

Any clever kids among us recognise the famous (ish) location of where this zed is parked? Jeff TT

No worries, yes they all seemed to be cool guys. Jeff

Still could be the oil that was down your exhaust and elswhere from the previous engine failure, there was an awful lot in the boost pipes and plenum as well, also as a side note revving the engine when stationary hard enough to get boost is not a good idea, seen this at shows sometimes when guys are showing off their dump valves, early engine demise can result from high revving without engine load. Cheers matey, good to meet you and your "crew" yesterday. Jeff

Do you know who fitted the bigger intercoolers? missing bolts from the front where the ducting fits causing a HUGE boost leak! always amazes me how zeds run even when they should not!! Jeff

No worried will take a look on the pc at work see what we have. Cheers Jeff

Yup! Jeff

Good news message for geordie_liam Look what was bolted to the back of your old engine, two cracking HKS 5 bolt turbo`s, Jamie removed them and refitted to the replacement engine for you. Oh and as a taster a few pics from earlier of your zed

Oddly have seen a rise in badly fitted crankshaft spigot bushes on manual engines, if not completely flush with the crank face the gearbox input shaft batters the bush to the point it starts to break up, as you can see in the photo's the bush wear/ damage can lead to gearbox input shaft excessive movement which potentially can lead to noisy operation, vibration and at worse clutch or even gearbox damage, ignore the oily mess of the engine in the pics, was duff anyhow. Mad this part which cost just a couple of pounds can cause so many issues if not fitted correctly, just a heads up for you. Jeff TT

Heater matrix ! beware of overheat caused by loss of water, not good for the engine. Check see if the carpet is wet close to the floor heater outlets, and check the engine water level, if low and the carpets are wet will be the matrix, replacement is the only answer. However in the short term the matrix can be linked out ( under the bonnet ) to prevent further water loss, but of course you will not have any warm mode on your heater. Jeff TT

No need, alarms that need this connected are using voltage drop sensing to trigger the alarm, so they use this connection to ignore any electric fans that can come on when the ignition is off and the alarm is set. As the zed does not have any fans running when the ignition is off you can ignore the connection. Jeff TT

Aha ! well done that man! sorry no reply by me just had the most manic fortnight of the year and just about shattered every night when we eventually get home. To be honest when I looked at your e-mail I somehow missed the single intercooler bit?? I was thinking along the lines of cam timing!! So now we know the issue we need the fix, right the single intercooler is fixed together in a X formation, like this one below? The pipwork is an odd affair to get right and the way to get it in your head is this, with this system the left hand turbo is now going to boost the right hand side of the engine and the right hand turbo boost the left hand side of the engine, its no matter anyway as the plenum is all linked anyway. Start by connecting one side and look at the cooler outlet flow as diagonolly, so from bottom left to top right and bottom right to top left. As I said seems a bit weird in your head but when as you can see with it connected wrongly you the induction air from the turbo`s is opposing each other. Will look for a pic and post back Cheers Jeff TT