JeffTT

Agree with all here and Si suggestion of by-passing for now. Jeff

:yes:

Nice one Maz, got to say your one determined guy, well done! Jeff TT

First time I have heard if that method, nice one Andy, very useful write up to about 99%of all zed owners I should think. Jeff TT

:biggrin: :clap: :biggrin: Jeff

Ok so following on from yesterday, had a few hours allocated to carry on with the engine work, so a thermostat, inlet hoses, rebuilt tensioner, pulleys and a cambelt ( water pump already replaced ) soon fitted and back together So back to the injector problems, stripped out yesterday and the ports all cleaned and new seals fitted and greased ready for the injectors. So a tested replacement rail and injectors fitted with new fuel link pipe, and the white stuff everywhere is talc, used previously by the owner to trace a fuel leak. So matting faced all cleaned and gasket at the ready, plenum back on in the morning, connect up the loom and fuel pipes and should be mainly complete by lunchtime, back with final completion pics then. Jeff TT

Well at this time I do not know, the owner is keen to have it running as it should and as in many cases prefer to get it done somewhere other than the supplying dealership, will ask him when he collects. Jeff

Mmm... yes all very odd, sadly seem to be coming across more mysterious faults and odd workmanship than in previous years. Jeff TT

No. Jeff TT

So back to the injectors and so the complete rail was removed with the 6 injectors in one piece, the injector port seals looked to of been reused one's and clearly not very well, all six showed signs of damage, how they were sealing is a mystery. All stripped So there we have it for today, covered up to keep any stray bits out, back in the morning to carry on. will follow up with the conclusion tomorrow. Jeff

Interesting one this that I think may be of interest to some, the enthusiastic owner of this nice twin turbo zed bought it from a dealer before Christmas, however from day one it was not quite right somehow and over the past few months the running issues had got worse. However a more pressing water leak issue and heater matrix failure developed recently and hence why we got involved. The main water leak was quickly established as a pin holed steel water matrix pipe, and a very, very leaky matrix. The matrix and pipe where subsequently changed, the extremely rusty brown water we flushed from the system was more than likely a contributor to the two leaks. So that just left the running issues, with more attention now paid to this it soon become clear that the engine was very unhappy, running very rough at idle with hesitation when applying power and the ConZult was showing excessive afm voltage, no errors but when left idling would get slower and slower until it would cut out. Now the strange thing, when restarted the engine would burst in to life and run clean and smooth, but for around 15 seconds only and then the repeat of the rough running and eventual cut out. Among other small tune up adjustments a boost leak check revealed a huge leak under the plenum, a quick disconnect of the afm and restart should have been enough to resolve the boost leak for the test as the afm signal is now just on a get you home default map, however it was very much the same. With the many possibilities that could cause kind of issue choosing the best way to go forward and to not get bogged down in time consuming fault finding, so a simple back to basics approach is used and soon a visual look over the engine revealed the problem, Jamie's keen eye spotted that the injector colour was bright red. To those that do not know this means they are smaller flowing non turbo injectors in a twin turbo engine. So to prove the point an N/A ecu was slotted in and as expected the engine started and ran perfectly, revving freely and idling smoothly. So who, why and when and again WHY? no way to find out but now the fix is to strip out and replace the injectors with the correct flowing ones. As an addition to the oddness of the wrongly fitted injectors the cambelt was revealed through a broken cam cover to be in questionable condition, the dealer had suggested during the purchase on more than one occasion it had been replaced, well it defiantly needed doing now? So we know how this starts, start a methodical strip of all parts to see what's going on. Follow the pics as the strip out started today, the plenum removal starts first. The plenum was soon off and the gasket was revealed, the condition as can be seen is very second hand Closure inspection reveals a large section of the gasket missing, that's the dangers of reusing old gaskets. As mentioned the cambelt was revealed by a break in the cambelt cover, in fact that area of the cover had been catching the belt. So the belt was stripped out so that can be changed, the red injectors are very visible now in the back ground A broken cambelt tensioner body was discovered, the break bizarrely looked clean?? Continue next thread.

Yes good points. Jeff TT

Are you sure the codes are not old, try a battery disconnection over night. The afm been disconnected will raise the revs as it runs on a default map which includes a raised tickover to prevent stalling and of course a 2,5k rev limit. The temp switch sounds to be working ok when disconected the fan runs and then when reconnected the fan stops. The running issue is very likely a matter of cleaning throttle bodies adn setting up things such as timing, tps and base idle.What plugs are fitted and what condition are they? One other thing to consider is wiring faults thar can give errors that do not follow the usual diagnostic route,as I said before once you get to a certain point in fault finding you need better equipment, do a battery disconnect as I said and when reconnected and before starting the engine do a code check again, should be clear, then start up run up to temp and then shut down and do the test again. Let me know how you get on. Jeff TT

Use the link below to use as a cross reference data base, then you can go search ebay armed with the right information, good luck. Jeff TT http://www.ebcbrakesdirect.com/car/default.asp

If you mean the light stays on for 15 secs then off for 5 it suggests the o2 sensors have failed the test, however the built in diagnostic is very limited and it could be they are a bit lazy at idle but ok when on the road, try again with a higher revs see if they react better, to be honest a true diagnostic via a live data system such as ConZult is a better idea. Jeff TT

BMW E36 M3 ( early)............BMW E36 M3 (late)........Nissan 300zx Twin Turbo Bolt holes.....5............................5.....................................5 Diameter.....280........................315..................................280 Height.........41..........................53....................................54 Thickness....25...........................28....................................30 Minimum......23...........................26....................................28

No, I found it during a new owner assessment, and no vibration, the rim weld looked very thick so you would expect it to need a truck load of balance weights the opposite but no.....very odd. Jeff TT

No surprises that alloy wheels can be repaired but how far do you go, check out the first pic of an innocent looking wheel, but the following two show a repair to the rear of the rim which is eye wateringly large, spoke to the owner who had become aware of the repaired wheel only after purchasing the zed. We discussed the ins and outs of the repair and came up with the view although messy looking it was had been some time ago and was very securely done and all balanced up..... but new wheels soon as really. Jeff TT

Cool :clap: see you then. Jeff TT

Sticking air valve, bad connection on TPS ( hard idle switch error) Jeff

Try to avoid an auto electricians nothing wrong with them just by the time one of them has worked out how the zed is wired up you will end up with a large labour bill and maybe still have the problem. Ok see is we can track the issue down, need some info: 1 Does the 4 way indicators work when the normal indicators do not. 2 When the seat belt light is on is at full brightness or a slight glow 3 When the power steering is not working does the speedo work or not 4 When the problem occurs with the belt light on and lack of full power steering does the charge light glimmer a little. 5 When the problem is present, if you switch the engine off does it stop immediately or run on a second or so. If you could also take voltage readings with a multi meter for battery voltage through all of the tests it would help but not essential. Will grab my circuit wiring diagrams tomorrow from the workshop so can look in more detail and post back any more suggestions, I suspect a possible fuse box problem at the moment but just need to confirm. Jeff TT

No, but the injectors which are very close do, maybe this is what you can hear, they can actually be quite noisy on some zed engines, nothing to worry about. Jeff TT

It was a customers zed, and yes we had to do a cambelt /water pump service to sort it out. Jeff TT

Check out this link http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=126454 Should give you some insight into whats happened. Jeff TT