JeffTT

You need one of these, cheaper than a replacement support bearing and smooth running Jeff

A big thank you to all who attended the Zedworld Xmas Bash giving their £1 raffle ticket money raised money for the following charity, we have received back a thank you letter below, now we have a supporter number we plan to continue directing any more fund raising we do to this cause, and especially any of you who have children will know we need these places and supporting them is a no brainer, so again thanks guys and gals, have a pat on the back. Jeff, Lynda, Jamie

The whole unit is required but easy to change as I said before,you can even swap your ignition barrel over to key the same key of you want, will post some pictures for reference tomorrow for you. My pm inbox is always getting critically full and so every now and then I delete the oldest ones that have been replied to, unfortunately I have twice now in recent months deleted the lastest one not replied to by mistake argh!!!! please feel free to pm again and promise to reply.:D Jeff

Hi Rob, Seen this a couple of times matey, you have the wrong steering column fitted, most likely a 200sx one which is shorter. The only way forward is to change it, which luckily is a very easy job, a warranted used one £65+ vat sorted! Jeff

Ok its the same proceedure as a boost leak test, by removing and blocking off the afm and applying air via a valve to pressurise the system and then listen out for leaks. Another thought, a failing afm can produce the same symptoms you have but will not cause a fault code, the only way to check this is with a ConZult or a test meter to read what the actual voltage output is. Let us know how you get on. Jeff TT

Sounds like a possible air leak, if you keep your foot down hard when it fights against you is there any black smoke out the back? Jeff TT

Yes sure is, the zed came to us (via recovery) with a replacement wing on the back seat.......nothing wrong with optimsm I guess. Jeff

Some days I hate my job, when a zed owner puts their trust in you to advise on a problem been the messenger of bad news can suck! So as the photo's show the guy had an apparent small interaction with a lorry tyre or section of (we think) on the motorway. The first impact marks look innocent enough as the front bumper edge looks only grazed, however as the wheel hopped over the debris it whipped it up violently into the sill and door leaving huge dent area and lots of rubber marking. Closer inspection shows the wing had been displaced too, but and importantly it had not been hit directly, despite a dent in the wing this is more of a stress mark than an impact mark. Further inspection revealed a lot of camber on the o/s wheel, when the car was on level ground, however when up in the air and hanging free it still displays a large amount, which given there is no impact evidence to the suspension was worring. More inspection reveals the wing edge under the bonnet to have been streched ad misshapen. Deeper still under the arch evidence of panel seperation, the suspension turret and has split only the top and the inner wing has split at the chassis leg /member. The final nail in the coffin as it where is the inner wing pressing on the brake master cylinder, normallythere is an 18mm gap here, the inner wing photo shows that everything lines in blue has moved over towards the engine by a substantial amount too! To fully establish and gain access to repair the damage the engine MAY need removing, we do not know the full deal on what the impact object was till tomorrow but either way its done a hell of a lot of damage. Working out quite how damage occurred when an impact happens is not always easy and can only speculate, the wheel upward speed must have been sufficiently violent to push the suspension top and inner wing over when it got to the end of travel. Concidering this zed has donuts for tyres, imagine the damage to the wheel if it has been a 19" with elastic band one fitted?

Well done for the checks you have done so far, the ecu water marks are very, very common so don`t get too worried by that. Code 21 with a good spark is a conflict and a puzzle, know its a bit out there but a cambelt timing check may be a good idea, even just as an elliminator. The right hand cover can be moved forward with some work and the belt alighned on the crankshaft and the two right hand camshafts. Keep us updated on progress. Jeff

Cheers matey, you very welcome, Lynda says hi and sorry she missed you since I passed my manflue on to her Jeff

The afm when failed gives a 2.5k rev limit as mentioned by others, also this occurs if it is disconnected or has a broken cable in the loom, a continuity check back to the ecu will confirm the cabling good or bad. However low voltage will also cause the same and you mentioned having repeated flat battery you need to check the alternator is charging with a test meter, it may even be a dead battery causing electrical issues. Of course it could just be a complete coincidence and the afm had died so you may wll just have to replace it. Good luck Jeff TT

Possible a bad earth on the tailgate, check the cables where the enter the body from the tailgate for any damage, if it is the motor however they are very inexpensive for a warranteed unit and easy to swap over. Jeff TT

Hello hudson, A little more information would help, What was the issue with the top end that required a rebuild? a) Noisy tappets / cams failure b) You wanted a parts rebuild c) You where advised by the garage Did you have the turbo`s changed because: a) They were faulty b) You wanted better ones c) You where advised by the garage How many miles have you covered since the work was done, did you get any receipt/ warranty with the work? How did the car run before and after the work? Hudson remember all to often emotions take over where our cars are concerned and this clouds our reasoning a little. Any time work is done on a car and a subsequent issue arises you do have to be sure the two are linked and its not just the "since you worked on my car" mentality, of course you could be completely correct and the work done either overlooked an underlying problem with the engine OR they caused the problem..who knows without an inspection, meanwhile keep calm and deal with it objectively. I do not know who you are referring too who did the work but if they are a decent trading garage warranty is law not an option, not sure why they quoted you over the phone maybe a recall and ask for the owner / manager and request that any reply to be put in writing, also check if they are a member of any motoring organisation that would speak to them on your behalf. The quote over the phone for a bottom end rebuild should be taken as a guesstimate as without a strip down the level of work required is unknown, could be extensive including crank work / replacement etc or not? who knows without disassemble...be careful with that one. It is possible that a quicker and more cost effective answer is to replace the engine for a known good one, of course swapping over the turbo`s etc. But your a long way off that kind of decision yet, an engine repair / rebuild means only one place for you and that is "Jimmer" off this very forum , sure he will pop along soon and add his thoughts. Jeff TT

Your very welcome, I will keep a check on the forum tomorrow so if you have anymore issues post them or pm and will try to help. Jeff TT

Listen carefully I vill say this only once...........velcome! Jeff TT

I sincerely hope his business acumen is better than his spelling, writing and punctuation, if this is a genuine business re-launch speech they would of done better using a press agent. Hope it works out for them though, nothing wrong with enthusiasm provided it is applied well. Jeff

Code 21 also refers to the cas unit ( primary circuit trigger) check the connection here, mark the position of the cas unit and then remove ( 3 x 10 mm bolts) then with the ignition on and the cas unit connected spin the drive shaft, if it is working the injectors will click and you will hear fuel been pumped around the fuel rail. The injectors are smaller delivery on a non turbo so the ecu is mapped accordingly, its likely that the engine would flood using a n/a ecu as the larger TT injectors will be getting an incorrect signal, this may add to the problem as the engine could well be flooded anyway, this is common when issues with connections arise, ensure that the spark plugs are not fouled, very often the very action of looking for these faults can cause more similar faults as connections to sensors are easily disturbed. Starting again with a fully charged battery is a good idea, once connected do a code check BEFORE attempting to start and all codes should be clear. Any codes that appear later if it does not start are current and should help towards pin pointing the problem. Good luck matey Jeff

Bumpety bump done matey. Regards Jeff

Craig your very welcome, Cheers Jeff

I can fully sympathise with you, this has become a daily bug bear of ours now, you as a consumer are frustrated we as a business.....well you can imagine, we do not quote any prices now on new parts unless we have checked with Nissan first as they change on a weekly sometimes daily basis! but even so it leaves such small margins that often we sell parts at cost which makes no business sense at all. Some of the price increases have been incredible like thermostats rocketed overnight from a little over £10.00 to £37.00 each!!! plays havoc with our fixed price service and repair menu. Nissan seems to have little regard for securing the sale of the remaining 300zx parts stock in the UK prefering to give larger discounts and incentives to US dealers, simply put if this continues Nissan UK will end up with no 300zx parts sales eventually, something I feel is a target they are aiming at. Jeff TT

If the air ONLY entered the system from the low master cylinder level then you ONLY need to bleed at the ABS unit in the boot, there are two bleed nipples on the unit, do these first and see how you go. Jeff TT

Thanks for the SUPER promt re-instatment of my subscriber status. Jeff TT

Hi just renewed trader subs etc. after noticing it ran out today details below Thanks Jeff TT PAYPAL RECEIPT BELOW Transaction ID: 5NS94544HR110361P The payment authorisation for your purchase from 300ZX.CO.UK has been sent.

Gates belts are ok so do not worry, it is my view from experience that the genuine ones that are made to Nissan`s spec including the 60k service interval offer the best fit and value. The Blue Print one was tested back to back ( literally) with a genuine Nissan belt and the BP one just did not compare favourably in feel, look and teeth count between timing marks. Cheers Jeff