JeffTT

Good boost with low power is normally as a result of retarded ignition, however all manner of things may need "adjusting" to return the performance back to normal, throttle balance, ignition timing, tps settings, and more, mostly a short ConZult diagnostica and set uo is enough to correct all of these. Jeff TT

Pity the first pic is not higher resolution, the cas timing looks very retarded in the first pic but less so in the second and the second pic shows the later inlet cam pulley sprockets but the earlier cas unit? Jeff TT

Dear me, sounds like you did get a raw deal indeed! when your ready will will be more than happy to sort it out for you, meanwhile what oil you running at the moment, if its fully synthetic change to semi synthetic10 / 40 may slow it down and give you a bit of breathing space, till it gets sorted properly, ok and check its not overfull! that could be a part of the problem. Best if luck and speak soon hopefully. Jeff

Cam covers are notorious leakers, the rear outer ones just sit on a bed of sealant and when they do leak the oil drops onto the manifolds and turbo`s and makes a horif burning oil smell. What have you had done previously? rebuild or what? Jeff TT

Quick reminder of the damage Jeff TT

Thats great news, how you liking the manual conversion?? Jeff TT

Previous nightmare customer / owner of ours, now owned by a customer and friend of ours. Jeff TT

I thought it was just me! I bet its the excitement of getting his zed back running, even though I prefer mine to "roar" rather than "raw" (lol) Well done all involved another zed saved. Jeff TT

Rumour has it that chinna78 has a new addition to his family, with his wife giving birth early this morning, well done to mom and of course dad. Congratulations :dance::dance::dance: Jeff TT

Arghhhhh looked for that meter for ages today!! glad the HID issue solved, have pmed you about the meter. Cheers Jeff

Alarms siren, original Nissan fit on some zeds, have seen them before but not many. Jeff TT

What? £87!! we sell them for £25 fully warranteed!! and the ecu coding below is not applicable to our zeds. Jeff

A very lucky fellow zedder today, on route to catch a ferry to Calais and a long drive ahead to Luxemburg and onto Serbia found the following horrific fracture in his near side rear wheel when checking tyre pressures during the first leg of his journey. The damage is completely through the spoke and meant the centre and outer rim have become a seperate item at that point, a shame I could not catch it with the camera but when the wheel was held up you could see light right through the fracture! A quick detour and we sorted him with a replacement wheel for his journey, and when talking with him he remembered a water filled pothole a day or so ago catching him out on that side. Shudder to think what could have been on the motorway! Jeff TT

The "desired" temp is 80c once up to temperature this should be fairly stable whether the engine is at idle or at higher revs, the thermostats job (with the radiator) is to regulate and react accordingly to maintain 80c, 2 or 3 degrees either way is no biggy providing its stable,if the temp sensor reads in the low 60`s then saftey boost is an issue as you mention but you are well above that. Jeff TT

Yes very likely, the viscous fan could also be locked, having said that it would be very noisy if it was. Thermostat issues can occur and will result in all manor of problems, not too expensive to replace, the fuel saving from a quicker warm up will soon pay for it, 10 mins at 50mph to attain 70deg is too long. I did a tech about this very issue, see link below http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=126426&highlight=thermostat+tech Another thing to consider if a stat with the wrong temp has been fitted, see link beow. http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=133014&highlight=thermostat+tech Jeff TT

Always good to see alternative opinions, no doubt for`s and against for the water cooling been left in place. Have not personally seen any evidence to support it been a "risky" mod, in fact the very mod was common place at SE Nissan some 10+ years ago, with many of these zeds still in service and still supporting the same modification without turbo problem seem to suggest its certainly is not a "risky" mod, sure there is far more "risky" things done with our zeds. Jeff TT

Pricing individial corrossion repairs by photo`s is difficult, the most inoffensive level of corrosion can turn into a huge job once started, equally a big looking job can end up been an easy repair, inspection and an open mind once the job is started is required. Having said that typical pre paint repair cost for two rear sills inside and out and of course subject to actual inspection £300+ vat to £400+ vat. the price artztogo got was does seem very good. Jeff TT

Maybe the recircs were still connected as well as the bovs, common mistake. Jeff TT

Oh forgot, helps if you have one of these.... A TAME welder. Jeff TT

Cut out all of the rot. Then make up repair plates. Including returns. Once all done and ground flat as possible, coat with bare metal primer then skim to finalise shape, finish with stone chip and /or paint colour whatever applicable. Jeff TT

For tall gears get an auto, 1k revs = 30mph means at 150mph is just 5k revs One thing to concider is what road wheels are fitted, after market wheel / tyre combinations can mix it all up either way, and of course over revving is controlled by the rev limiter Jeff TT

Overspray = lazy masking No overspray = good masking Jeff TT

Common problem, one or both of the duct temp sensors are disconnected, remove the knee panel under the steering wheel, there should be two ductings. You will need to remove them to get to the connectors, plug them back in and your heater should be back to normal operation. Jeff TT

As an alternative you can do a code check via the Consult plug ( under the bonnet catch lever ) by using a paper clip to force the ecu into diagnostic mode, however I still think you will have a seized turbo based on your description. Jeff TT