JeffTT

With the gearbox removed and the egr valve the det sensor can be reached without any plenum removal. Jeff TT

160 mph US style clock, also will be a manual gearbox looking at the revs. Jeff TT

Andy if your about Saturday morning and I will pop the ConZult on for you. Jeff

Normally timing is 15deg, however when a manual conversion is done unless the neutral switch is connected or pin 44 on the ecu is earthed or a manual ecu fitted then 25deg is correct. Jeff TT

Difficult to quantify what the particular company is offering you, the engine ecu has an eprom (chip) which is normally soldered in and requires removal and a replacement "chip" with a pre-loaded map on it. The details of the mapping will and can vary dependant upon what they are trying to achieve, either way its all designed to allow extra boost to be used and among other parameters the fuel and ignition timing needs to work with this. I would also hazzard a guess they may not have included a full set up of the engine, raising the boost, checking timing, throttle balance, tps settings etc. etc A replacement chip / re-map without any other work will achieve nothing, in fact may well have a negative efffect, ask for more information on exactly what you get and what they do as far as setting up. There are plenty other avenue`s to get your zed boosted, ask here for reccomendations. Hope that helps Jeff TT

Will fit straight in, will work WITHOUT the delimiter and read miles per hour, however the top speed limit (112 mph )will still be in place, changing the chip in the ecu will sort this. Jeff TT

Did you bleed the ABS unit in the boot? common mistake to forget that. Jeff TT

Yours has the optional kerb lighting when turning and side lights on, rare stalk that. Jeff TT

Jamie again from above releasing the final nut, Once removed the manifold tells us we were correct in our diagnosis, the right hand port is blackened from the gasket failure. Back to the engine and the head goes further in confirming a failed gasket, the most forward port blacked again. Close up of the head port shows although blackened the gasket is in one piece, the lower stud was the problem, not fully located in the head when the nut was tightened the manifold was not flush against ten head. Careful cleaning up of the faces ready for and a nice new gasket to be fitted. Many hands again make fitting the manifold back a simple job. Sorry for the blurred photo of the refitted manifold, clearly getting excited now! A few nuts bolts, pipes, brackets etc. and the turbo is back on So all back in place, after priming the oil way to the turbo the engine started first time, a gentle warm and all sounding good again, a subsequent test drive and I was pleased to report back to the owner that his zed was no longer sounding like a comical fart in the joke bag. For the most part the cause of the noise was not failed gaskets but the turbo and manifold fixings were not tight, this does suggest at some other time work has been done in this area and poor attention to detail had resulted in a good job going bad later. Jeff TT

Its always a pleasure to find and cure a fault on any zed but when this particular zed started producing a farting sound when pressed in second gear we knew we had to act quickly to save the face of the owner who was getting increasing embarrassed by the sound and worried too. Following a road test where the sound was determined to be on the passenger side of the engine it went on the ramp for further investigation. The noise was harder to produce when on the ramp but it pointed to either a turbo or manifold gasket so off with the battery to get a closer look from above From below the next removal was the near side cat and down pipe So this revealed the turbo and turbo elbow but little else, still not conclusive but it still looked in this area, following a conversation with the owner we got the go ahead to carry on. The turbo elbow removed and still all looked as it should A rear view of the turbo with the elbow removed, nice and dry at least. With space at a premium getting at at all of the fixings needs a two handed ( well four ) approach, Jamie working from above whilst I worked from below. Before you know it all undone and turbo off the manifold So the turbo gasket reveals some of the problem, difficult to see exactly in the photo but the gasket had become paper thin at one side and had started to deteriorate causing some leakage at one edge. So on to the manifold, lots of WD40 and patience, nobody wants a broken stud now ..............................CONTINUE ON NEXT THREAD...................................

Thanks for the kind words matey, was good to see your zed back together. Jeff TT

Assuming the bulbs and wiring check out ok then lLight bulb warning module has most likely failed on a single output, either replace or wire around with a jumper cable. Jeff TT

Ok at least they are easy to get to, pain when its the back cylinders!! As far as fault codes, it will not help you with this particular issue, you still need to establish 100% if its is either a fuel or spark issue, as you have moved the coil packs about and the plugs all seem in similar condition then its likely the injectors have bad connections despite cleaning them, try listening to them by using a long screw driver on them and your ear on the handle, move the connector about see if you can hear a change. Jeff

No dedicated limp home that switches off seperate cylinders, simply the cylinders effected have either a spark issue or a fuel issue, check spark with a spare plug sitting on the plenum with the coil pack pluged into it, start engine and see whats happening. If no spark swap coil packs with an adjacent working one, if still no spark go back to the ptu conections. Fuel injectors clean and close up connectors, listen to each one whilst moving the connector, Jeff TT

Your welcome. Jeff

Oh you have sooooo much to learn ;) Meanwhile welcome to the world of zeds. Ok not many things are straight forward and removal of the sump is up there with splitting atoms etc. when doing it at home on a trolley jack, not impossible by any means but unless you have a problem that needs fixing leave alone. Jeff TT

Yes all good advise there. Jeff TT

So a new section of pipe needs to be refitted, but first boil a kettle and pop the pipe into the hot water, whilst its there fit the two pipe clips over the steel pipes and push them well back, leave the pipe till its super supple. Spray some WD40 or similar over the steel pipes and using the long nose pliers to bend the pipe. Slip the rubber pipe over the right hand side first, more than it needs to go on, then when its clear to fit the left hand pipe use the pliers to work it left slightly. Now use another tie wrap around the pipe, do not tighten fully, just enough so it will not slip up the pipe Now with the tie-wrap in place you have something to push against without damaging the rubber, once fitted correctly snip the wrap off. Rotate the two pipe clips to make them easy to get too as in the pics. Pipe in place just need to snip the tie-wrap So all done, start the engine and check there is no leaks. Have fun! Jeff TT

Seen a few zeds again with the wrong type of fuel pipe fitted lately so just a quick reminder that only fuel pipe designed to work with fuel injected systems is safe. The two types look very different, the material covered one is for carburettors ( low pressure ) and will fail. One particular fuel pipe that can be troublesome ( leaking ) is the front one under the throttle shaft. Often access seems impossible and trying to tighten up the clips is impossible, well the trick is not to tighten but to loosen, the clips can then be rotated into a better position as shown lower down where the better access allows the clip to be tightened more efficiently. However some time the pipe needs changing and as here the wrong one been fitted meant changing it, not as hard as its seems if you follow a few tips. The section highlighted as B shows the offending incorrect pipe, the section highlighted A shows the accelerator and cruise control cables/ quadrants held back with tie-wraps. After ensuring the pressure has released from the fuel rail undo the clips and use long nose pliers to pull the pipe free, if its stuck use knife and split it down its length, be aware some fuel will still spill from the pipe so have some paper towel ready and some water to wash down after. In this particular case you can see the removed pipe is in terrible shape, this is due to it been not compatible with the high pressure injection system. continue in next post

Mmm.. if the injector is not working ( bad connection ) the extra fuel use will be caused by the engine imbalance and you needing to floor the accelerator more. Jeff TT

Oil around the plug thread most likely caused by leak from the cam cover found its way down there. Oil in the recirc can be a sign of heavy breathing so maybe just a breather issue pcv, air leak, mixed up vacuum pipes can cause all sorts of odd issues. Is the misfire intermittent or constant? have you checked the injector connection on that cylinder? Jeff

Settings made no sense, massive gain with low set made would have been pulsing like a bugger, reason I prefer to keep the boost solenoids connected and then at least when the det sensor operated the boost set and gain even out for a few seconds and hopefully save the engine. Jeff TT

EBC settings messed up :nono: Jeff

Misfiring, smoking heavily, and low on power, this zed had lost the end off the spark plug on No 6 cylinder, pulling the motor and stripping down showed the full extent of the damage, the turbo also had suffered damage too. Overboost, detonation, fueling issues, any or all but my guess is detonation caused by over boosting, on what was a loverly engine just weeks before. Jeff TT

Don`t discount a 540i just yet, with uber looks and style with near 300bhp and a 6 speed gearbox its a potent mix with genuine 30+ mpg. Jeff TT