JeffTT

Finding engine coolant leaks that leave no trace can often be difficult to locate without the correct equipment or a bit of luck. Here a case in question, water loss was very, very slow, infact sometimes it would loose no water at all for a while and then again later the leak would flair up again. The system held good pressure when tested several times and with no evidence to speak of it and it was a real puzzle. But a chance spot lead to the problem, a previous cambelt job had required the removal of the water pipes at the front of the engine, the two rubber pipes are held by 4 spring clips, one of the clips was not sitting correctly. A quick dimantle revealed the clip was not even sitting on the rubber pipe, previously incorrectly installed it was half on the metal pipe, this meant the rubber pipe was only partly held on, later the clip can be seen to be actually bent and mishaped. We have no idea if the previous work was DIY or a garage but either way a simple mistake could have lost the engine. Jeff TT

The fuse box in the drivers footwell needs removing to check correctly as if there is an issue with it, it will be around the backside. Keep an update going so we can get it resolved for you, if you get stuck call me at the workshop so I can talk you through it. Jeff TT

Ok the circuit supply to the diff, lights alert and the battery charge light are all shared and hence when you almost stall the engine the alternator output reduces and so the warning lights go out. Check the fuse marked "engine cont" in the black relay/fuse box on the passenger side inner wing under the bonnet, should be a red 10amp, even if it looks ok fit a new one, these fuses suffer from high resistance as they get on, and this particular circuit is very sensitive to that. If that fails to sort the issue then look to the fuse box in the driver footwell, the circuits split here and high resistance connections here can cause the same problem, maybe the typical rain water ingress issue. The cause is directly or related in some way to one of those two area`s no where else, and for those who do not know, the diff light is unique to the UK zeds imports do not have a cooler /pump/ sensor fitted so hence no warning light. As a side note: The "engine cont" fuse issue can also play with the alternators ability to produce a correct charge output, alternators can mistakingly thought to be faulty when they are not, although the charge light may go out you may want to check the voltage at the battery with the engine running. Jeff TT

Simple answer is no you have been misinformed, if the reading is correct at the gauge ie no boost above 0 then unless you have a massive boost leak which you would hear and the engine would run rubbish, you have at least one seized turbo. Replacement is the only cure, a full check is required though before committing as in the main its an engine out job, expect £2k to £2.5k for the job with new turbo`s, depending on spec. Bad luck bud. Jeff TT

During a routine cambelt change it was discovered that when previous work had been done in the same area who ever had refitted it all up was a bit heavy handed with the old sealant. Sealant / instant gasket is perfectly good product that when used correctly can be a time saver and save some money too. However when meeting faces are machine cut they only need a small uniform smear of sealant to make a good job, it can be very tempting to load the joint up thinking it will make a better job of it, all it does though is squeeze out into places it was not meant to. These two photo's shows the upper water pipe removed, it appears to have an extra it was not meant to have, excess sealant had squeezed out and formed a large ring on the pipe end. This photo shows how extreme the problem caused by excess sealant can cause, the pipe inlet has been reduced in size and flow by at least 50%. what was even odder at this point was the extra sealant was only evident on one side. Removing the thermostat revealed more sealant and when removed completely we had found the missing sealant from the water pipe that had migrated down to the thermostat. As it happened the problem had not caused any lasting damage, but a hot day and some spirited driving could have driven the engine temperature up enough with the reduced coolant flow. So be careful when using this stuff, have seen similar issues with sump gaskets etc. where the excess has ended up in the sump and into the oil pick up. Jeff TT

The member is £200+ from Nissan, its in three parts a centre and two wing brackets all of them are welded in place, to remove and replace is a complete strip down of the front end, a big job when paying by the hour. Jeff TT

Hard to say, the one peice Energy Suspension ones where the real culprits, later changed to a 3 peice design with more compliants, however there are one peice ones around now that are made from softer material that are ok. Have a good look at the lower arms where they bolt up, hopefully ok, fitting load spreader plates is an alternative, no biggy to make them up. Jeff

Front member corrosion Found during a new owners assessment, bizzare the rest of the zed is tops, done a fair few of these but this is bad, when we get to fix it will do a write up on it with pics. Was a disapointing discovery for the new owner, to be fair unless jacked up you would not see it, rest of the zed is fine so well worth repairing and not to let it spoil the purchase for him. Jeff

Yes they have already been done. Jeff TT

The pipes breaking is very, very common, do not worry at all about replacing it just link it out with rubber pipe. Never seen a diff cooler that actually works on a 300zx, they are always dry when you undo them, (or break them ) Jeff

Well I beg to differ with the actual fan purpose, the fan does have the secondary role of providing additional cooloing in the event of an impending engine overheat but its primary roll is to pass air over the aircon condensor when the vehicles forward movement is insufficient to pass air though the condensor ie: in traffic When this occurs the pressure rises in the system in direct relation to the refridgerant temperature, the high pressure switch in the system then triggers the relay to the electric fan, as the refridgerant temperature lowers the fan goes back off. All air con systems have this fan, its essential as if the refridgerant temperature is not controlled the system pressure will rise to bursting levels(22+ bar) in fact in the case of a failed fan there is an emergency blow off valve in the system that dumps the refridgerant and hence the dangerous pressure in an instant. The fan not running after using a drop in gas is very common and caused by a couple of factors, one is the fan switch is not totally compatible with the new gas, and also the system cannot be filled to the same level as with the original gas, this means the running presures are lower but so is the cooling unfortunately, but then the "drop in gas" is a work around really and to be honest is more than adaquate. My advice would be to re-connect the fan relay to be triggered by the air con relay or you run the real risk of the emergency valve blowing off if caught in a long traffic jam with the air con going and dumping your new charge, done this mod many times and works just fine. Jeff TT

Adjustable tension rod arms are very popular and we have seen our fair share of them as well as fitting many sets too, interestingly a zed recent came for a new buyer "check over" and even as it was put onto the ramp a particularly loud crack/clunk from the front was evident. The first photo came out a bit blurred unfortunatly but shows the location of the adjustable tension rod in question. In the second photo the locknut is not only loose but can see to be well rusty along with the thread, as the rod thread is quite coarse the loose locknut was allowing movement on the thread, to tighten it up needed a good dosing of WD40 and a large spanner. Luckily no lasting damage but a always a concern and this one been loose for a long time does not make it any less worrying, if you have these fitted to your zed might be worth a check, no need to jack up just put full lock on should be able to see them. Jeff TT

A bad connection on the temp sensor will also cause the fan to run, it also causes overfueling. Jeff TT

I think petrol prices are a less now than they were years ago given pay rises and inflation etc. maybe its because my first car ownership era was the late 70s and remember firmly been only able to fill it up on Fridays when I got paid! it was the now unthinkable price of 63pence a gallon yes that was 63 pence a gallon I said which equates to something like 14 pence a litre! So now at say £1.20 a litre thats around 8.5 times more, BUT my wage then was around £20 a week times that by 8.5 and you looking around £170 so given the minimum hourly wage in this country is £5.93 on a forty hour week you top line £237.20 but remember thats minimum wage, the average wage is more like £350 to £400 so in real terms the actual percentage of your earning that goes towards petrol cost is less than in 1979. see the link below compiled by the AA for the full story, makes an argument for raising the cost of fuel for the poor hard done by fuel companies I think............Not only joking. Its all relative really, we have so many other things in life now that are using our cash up, imagine in 1979 how many less gadgets and home electronics for one that where not available, and stageringly the mortgage rates of around 15% in those days and people managed ok....its a weird world thats for sure. Jeff TT http://www.guardian.co.uk/technology/blog/2008/may/22/youthinkfuelpricesarebad

One thing to consider is the lack of use the car is getting at the moment, once all road legal a long run maybe all it needs, runing at tick over with odd high revs provides no load to the engine, a long road run will help determine if you have an issue at all. Jeff

Ok as you having the problem occasionally I would definately check the fast idle valve as mentioned but also said check the tps connection too. Have not got an actual picture to hand but just behind the balancer bar (number 30 in the picture) Jeff

Most likely the fast idle valve has either come disconnected or is stuck open, check the connection if ok try tapping the unit with the engine ticking over, bet the revs will drop down when you do it, if so needs a clean out or replacement. Jeff TT

Best real lights out in my opinion, and that including the "clear corner" ones which are sadly pants in quality terms. Did mine many years ago now but still love the look of them. Jeff TT

Here you go Uqbah, a few pics I took earlier, nice motor you have there. Jeff

Any issues with the charge light glowing at high, medium or even low revs almost always points to the alternator. However the charge light circuit terminals at the back of the alternator can some times corrode and cause a high resistance circuit which will cause similar issues, unfortunately due to the lack of access to check this out the alternator needs removing. An auto electrician should be able to perform tests including a full load current check which should help decide on the best course of action, one final thought, check the battery connections, both for tightness of the battery terminals and for corrossion between the terminal and the cables both earth and positive. Jeff TT

The lights warning unit can fail but usually as a result of a short circuit, the electronics are not designed to carry high current loads such as a short, hence the smoke. You still may well just have a faulty unit, but its equally likely you have a short circuit after the unit either on the rear light loom, or the number plate lights. Has any extra wiring or circuits been added, at the rear, either way a good look through the loom is needed just to eliminate it. Good luck Jeff

Mmm... sounds like the torque lock up on the autobox is dropping in and out, could be a throttle position sensor error, or could at worse a gearbox issue hope its not. Get the tps checked out, and do an autobox diagnostic, the link below should help. http://www.zedworld.co.uk/wizzj.html#auto_box Jeff TT

What make and model alarm? may be worth checking the manufactures website for any trouble shooting tips. Jeff TT

Remove the sump once drained, remove the fluid strainer and replace or at least clean out and refit. Jeff TT

"Technically the fuel pump will be oversupplying the engine and sending it back to the tank" Thats what it does as standard anyway hence the return line Jeff TT