JeffTT

The extra current the higher wattage bulbs draw is above the cable rating, this in turn will cause overheating of the bulb and it connection and cause the bulb to fail, best to run a separate supply in via a relay. Jeff

The C plugs are more than up to the job for both turbo and non turbo zeds, running upto 1 bar with those plugs is no issue either, there are hundreds of zeds using those plugs with boost and without upgrades and have no issues either way, what is important with ANY tuning is the set up and ensuring all of the adjustable sensors are correct and no air leaks etc. Jeff

Only one place for that!!!!!! We sell those complete for £25! cheeky gits. Jeff TT

So your having problem making boost over 12psi? the most common cause of this is leaking recircs or slow closing dump valves, whatever the turbos spool up to unregulated or not they cannot overcome recirc leaks. Jeff TT

The actuator would remain closed so the boost on that turbo would be unregulated, however you then have a fair boost leak down the disconnected pipe, either way not a good idea as overboosting is a real possibility Jeff TT

Jamie gets the prize for finding that one:clap: It was tad harder than the normal, it was the supply pipe for the fpr which runs under the plenum and is not viewable, a boost pressure test resolved it though. Jeff

Argh bad luck!! is a git normally, with the box out is a breeze in the park. Jeff Yep all TT`s have them. Jeff

No need for a ConZult, the ABS unit has a really good in built diagnostic, the abs unit sits behind the drivers side, rear quarter panel cover, it has a fault diagnostic light on which can be seen through the seat belts apature by the seat squab. Firstly drive the car for at least 50 metres and at at least 15 mph, stop and without switching the engine off check the abs light flash, count how many times it blinks, do not worry if you miss it as it will keep repeating the code, when you have the code check against the abs fault flash code table to find the cause of the problem, most common issue is wheel sensors and again mostly front one`s, this is especially common after work done on the front hub has including any hammer hits like when removing ball joints etc. Jeff TT

Whilst untaking an autobox change Jamie spotted the rubber turbo water pipe that links two metal pipes on the rear if the engine, a common failure and was just about to fail big time, lucky for this engine its was spotted beforehand. Jeff TT Nasty pipe removed New pipe fitted

Yes have a relatively rare Abflug one £230 fitting will be free of course, if you want it let me know asap as your work is nearing completion. Jeff

Well done on getting it done, glad its worked out for you. Jeff

Hiya, your description certainly suggests the propshaft as the issue, the support bearing rubber do-nut hardens with age and does not allow the prop to centre its self as its designed to, this does generaly show up worse when the rubber is cold, so if the vibration is worse when first starting out on a journey but slowly get slightly better when the rubber warms up a little its 99.9% the centre bearing support. The genuine bearing and support is over £200 from Nissan these days and given this we sell more one piece props than bearings. http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=140401 Jeff

Problem with cam timing errors is it messes with the 4 stroke cycle which can cause firing down the exhaust as the exhaust vales are not closed completely, or open too soon which causes poor gas compression. Generally though if a single camshaft timing is incorrect it should effect each cylinder on that bank the same but in practise we have found this is not always the case, most likely due to different wear rates on the cam lobs and or the valve seat differences, misfires are not the same though. Jeff

No not now, cannot fathom yet how the belt has skipped seems tensioned correctly, will see what tomorrow brings. Jeff

Hi Jim, ok more revealed with the engine running issue, seems the cambelt has skipped on three camshafts, only the o/s inlet one is correct! The worst one been the os exhaust been two teeth retarded, which explains the odd fuel firing down the exhaust on that side, the other two camshaft been one tooth advanced!. You have pm matey Jeff TT

Just need to add, BEFORE splitting the propshaft use tipex or similar to mark the relative flange positions or you will loose the dynamic balance. Jeff TT

Here is the answer you looking for, a free easy fix for the window relay/module. http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=137368 Jeff TT

Just buy a single n/a injector (£35) so much easier and with no advantage of fitting TT ones it makes sense to stay stock. Jeff TT

1. Do the gearbox electrical connections simple plug into the existing autobox wiring? i.e. Reverse switch, neutral switch and speed sensor doodah. It also has a wire coming off an oil line, which I'm assuming is a temp sensor. Once the auto box cables are removed your just left with the alternator loom which includes the speedo sensor and the old inhibitor switch for the auto box this needs linking out so the starter circuit will operate, the smaller speedo connector will just plug in. 2. The manual box has two oil cooler hard lines on it. Are these just attached to the exisiting ATF cooler lines (after a complete flush) or can they just be joined together and ignored? Link the cooler out, the oil is much heavier in a manual box and will not flow to the auto cooler, in fact the UK zeds uses an electric pump with temp sensor and a small fluid / air cooler fitted just in front of the drivers side rear wheel area. 3. After changing over the shifter to a short shifter I'm finding it hard to select gears. Have I installed the shifter incorrectly or can this be expected when the box isn't attached to the car? They do make the effort to change a bit harder, do check the pinch bolt where the plastic bushes are at the base of the lever, if too tight it will be hard to use. Do not forget the reverse light cables this have to be extended from the reverse light switch in the box and run upto the connector just behind the drivers headlight. The neutral switch needs wiring to the appropriate cable on the ecu, this is not essential but is desirable. Hope that helps Jeff TT

Thanks sorted the missing figures, the acceration uphill issue I have not heard of to be honest, the advantage is less weight at the crank, means quicker engine acceleration not to be confused with vehicle acceleration, either way a quicker response engine. Jeff TT

Fully clutch and lightened flywheel or just 25% upgrade clutch maybe what your looking for. 6kg lightened flywheel £315.00 25% upgrade clutch £325.00 Both stocked and available in the UK so no oversea`s shipping and no import duty. Not for what you want Mark but if big mods where ever concidered then this puck unit is the way to go Jeff

Your zed is back together, see you in the morning. Jeff TT

Here you go http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=142333 Jeff TT

Phisically yes ,however there are internal differences and the software within the ecu is different but the ecu can be swapped over, the torque convertor stall speed is different too, the gear changes tend not to be so nice due to the ratio differences, from experience fitting a TT box into an N/A may not be reliable in the long term, having said that sure someone said they did it and they found it ok but cannot comment on that. Jeff TT

Loss of third gear, over drive and torque lockup means a gearbox recondition is on the cards, fluid changes only works if all drive is lost and the filter is blocked so hence no fluid pressure / drive. Dubberdean, seriously you will need a new box or rebuild, so I hope you have budgeted for that, and to answer your question you can reasonably do 60mph in 2nd gear as its a taller gear than in a manual, but not good on fuel and not nice for the engine on a long drive. Jeff TT