JeffTT

The cable connector is held up on the top of the box by bendy metal tabs, getting under far enough to get you hand up there to pull it down is going to be difficult at best especially just on jacks, which you should also use axle stands or something similar, a pit or ramps is so much easier. Jeff TT

Sound like the you have a UK box and thats the temp sensor for the cooler pump, definately is NOT the neutral switch that has two cables and is at the back of the selector remote. Jeff TT

All what you need to know and how to fix it here for free is here: http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=137368 Jeff TT

As lee said clutch slipping, classic signs after upping the boost causing slipping in top gear. Gearbox out time. Jeff TT

I know she is a bit of an old girl but some this is a shameful thing to do to a British Icon :no: Jeff TT

Ok the yes a standard carrier will be fine, remember yours may be fine and the fork is the issue, but your not going to know this until its removed, if you wanting a quick turn around on the job ie: same day then you will most likely need to order ahead especially if getting parts from Nissan. Jeff

Sounds like the system may not have enough refriderant pressure, the low pressure switch will not allow the compressor to cut in via the relay as a safety, try carefull depressing the schrader valve by the battery, would hazzard a guess there will be little or no pressure. A full pressure test will be required to see if there is a leak anywhere, once cured the system will need vacuuming and refilling with the correct or alternative refridgerant dependant upon the age of your zed. Jeff TT

Bearing carriers are available in different sizes to accomadate different depth of clutch /flywheel combinations, this can often cause problems if an after market clutch is changed back to a standard one and the carrier not replaced, so in essence you need to know if your carrier is standard or otherwise. The standard carrier are available form Nissan and last known price was around £25, as you have had some problem with the fork I would recommend you change the pivot ball as it may have been under excessive pressure due to the issue. Jeff TT

Don`t give up your so close now, your only a few miles away just get it trailered to us and will get its started for you, you know you want to...:wink: Jeff TT

Hi Dan, Ok this is not actually as rare as you would think after discs and pads have been changed, there are a few reasons but more over its often mistakes made during the fitting and incorrect poor brake diagnosis. So I am guessing you have had the front discs and pads done, when the old pads are removed and the calipers removed there is a tendancy by many to squeeze the caliper pistons back without wondering where the fluid is going and at what rate. The fluid of course is been forced back through the system pipework/ abs unit and then against the natural flow of the master cylinder rubbers seals, this is by far the most common cause of master cylinder failure. Some may disagree but our workshop experience bears this out by how many cylinders we have changed over the years when owners or other garages have forced the fluid into the master cylinder in this way. Of course the easiest and correct way is to lock off the flexible caliper line and open the bleed nipple on the caliper BEFORE easing the caliper pistons back, a suitable bleed pipe will need to be on the nipple to prevent fluid getting everywhere, air is not such an issue at this point as you should always bleed the calipers anyway in part to just get rid of the brake fluid in the caliper and line as this is the section of fluid that has been getting most hot. So that done correctly now onto the fitting of the new discs, so after the old one are removed the hub area needs a real good clean, ensuring no bits at all are left apply a very small smear of silver grease not copper grease ( see note below ) for the disc to slip over the hub easily. Temporarily fit at least three wheel nut and hand tighten, now rotate the disc and check for runnout, if there is any then remove the disc and move the disc by one hole and refit accordingly, this can be due to small variations on the hub face and the cause of brake shake. Leave the wheel nuts in place whilst you do the rest of the build up to prevent the disc moving away from the hub where some bits could fall in and undo all your good work finally bleed that caliper before moving to the next one. One other point that repeatedly gets overlooked is the rear brakes, poor or low effecient rear brakes add more work load to the front, this can cause overheat and fade and general poor brake effeciency, check the condition of the discs on the rear, not just the outer face but get the car up and check the inner faces, this will often tell you more about the condition than the front, rear pads also have the habit of getting stuck in the caliper due to the anti rattle plates ( not the shims) fitted at the ends position of the pads, we have found removing these has no detrimental effect (no noise) but ensures a free pad operation through out the pad life. Finally pads, these can make a huge difference, paying expensive does not always guarantee you get the brake feel you want, matching them to the type of driving you actually do is more effective. So if you drive occasional quick but in the main like to take the cruise route rather than the track then there is absolutely no reason to go buy £100 + pads that are designed for totally different use, in fact they will under-perform due to been out of their design heat range. On a final note, pads of all types have a back plate that has been struck from a larger section of metal, the edges of which often have a flashing lip, this is then painted or coated in some way. ALWAYS remove this lip edge, if you do not the pad will be tight in the caliper and can lead to jamming of the pad which leads to poor brakes, and wheel shake due to unblanced caliper / pad application. Remember breaking in new pads takes at least 100 miles on new discs when changing pads alone the mileage is maybe more than double this, on badly scored discs the pads may never properly bed in due to glazing. Note: Copper grease melting point is lower than than the average brake disc heat on a 300zx , hence it liquifies and runs out, we always use and recommend silver grease which is more than double the heat range of copper grease. Jeff TT

Here is the link to the thread you need to read http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=145251 If the lever is tilted over this will be the issue no doubt, you will need new clutch fork and possibly a bearing carrier. Jeff

Its a common issue, the oil presure sender wears out inside on the resister track where it sits the majority of the time, this causes a high resistance connection and hence the gauge drops. Jeff TT

I thought 13 year old teenagers could not drive? Translator please Jeff

Remove the plastic cowl around the ignition lock, you will see at the back of the barrel on top a small solenoid that can easily be removed, the key lock with then be completly gone. The heater, air con power on issue still looks like the relay in the back of the fuse box. Jeff TT

Lower arm outer ball joints, steering coupling, steering arms. Jeff

Need to get right under unfortunately, however if that is the problem which sounds very likely it is, then its fairly obvious as the bushes will be hanging and the rack will have marks on it where it has been moving left and right through through bushes. Jeff

Here you go http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?p=1487363#post1487363 Jeff TT

The door lock on the drivers side has a small plastic quadrant on the end of the key barrel that can break and leave the key and central locking inoperative, locking the drivers door and using the passenger door to get in and out is a royal pain but is the only way unless you fit an alarm with the central locking option. So why not just buy the offending part and replace it, well in Nissan's wisdom they decided that they would only sell the part connected to a brand new key and barrel so a small piece of plastic becomes a £60 wallet hit. But there is an option which with a little work is free and will get you drivers door lock and central locking fully working again. So here is how it starts, following a normal key operation the key will spin around with no lock action, no where to go but door panel off and door handle removal (2 x 10 mm nuts) The picture below is what you will see, the yellow plastic quadrant broken away from the lock barrel, release the door handle and remove the handle to your table. So with the handle on the table its clear to see where the quadrant has broken away from, the circlip needs to be removed. Now if you have been lucky enough to find a god used quadrant you can fit it in place and refit the circlip, and refit to the car. However its likely you will have little luck finding a good used one or at least it will take some time, but take a look at the quadrants below, the yellow one been the drivers door one and the white one been the passenger door one. The two quadrants are handed and initially look like they will not interchange, however looks can be deceptive. First note the barrel register keys and the plastic key ways in the quadrant, the passenger one is the wrong way around of course at this point and hence will not fit. However with a small needle file or similar you can open up the key way slightly so it matches the layout of the register keys on the barrel. The barrel also has a small metal stop that will need removing with a file, not too hard but go careful made out of monkey metal and is soft. Will a little effort the passenger quadrant now fits the drivers side lock, there is a slight difference in position but its so small it has no effect on the locking action. Of course you do have to strip out both doors or you can double your chances of getting ones from breakers by asking for either door quadrant. As most times you do not enter the car from the passenger side there is no real need for the barrel to be working on that side, the central locking will remain fully operational from the drivers side anyhow. Jeff TT

Worn steering rack bushes allowing the rack to move left and right. See link discussed here with photo`s http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=129216&highlight=worn+steering+rack+bushes Jeff TT

Don`t you just love zeds!!!!!!!!! Jeff TT

1) oil pressure sender fault, easy to change but expensive from Nissan 2) sticking auxillary air valve, bad connection or bad setting on tps not returning to hard idle. Jeff TT

Wait till later tonight for a tech thread on this very subject with a free fix. Jeff TT

Not necessarily, could be a simple mistake in cable identification? Did you fit it into the wring loom or the back of the speedo? Jeff

Sound like you have more than one issue, the speedo issue what ever it is will not cause engine issues at low speeds, thats more likely a set up on the idle control valve / base idle. If the speedo is working but still in kph then sound like the wiring connections are not quite right, did it come with a connection diagram? Jeff TT

Ok Steph, upper link shipped today for tomorrow ( Friday) delivery. Jeff