JeffTT

We are all having to accomodate Nissan`s insane price rises but today even I was surprised to see the retail price of a 300zx oil filter is now £11:75! Seems like no time at all ago the retail price was around £5.00 so lucky we buy in large amounts and in advance, however the price rise will catch up with us soon I guess, thats the trouble with fixed menu pricing that we have always done, more pressure on our supplier to get the price down then:angry: Jeff TT

Thats working correctly then. Jeff TT

Sounds like you may have a few issues, the foam is most likely previous stop leak addative in the water, cool running could be a faulty thermostat or a locked viscous fan. Jeff TT

It was, by pure chance was doing the same job today so thought hey take some pics and write it up. Not uncommon for MOT tester to get it wrong on the bearing thing, especially if they have not sussed the rear steering. Wheel bearings are usually checked by rocking the wheel top and bottom, but a word of caution, the outer hub bush can also give movement in the top and bottom test!! Jeff

Slightly different, in fact easier, but firstly the actual arms are different size so make sure you get the correct ones or they will not fit. Undoing the arm ball joints is easier as you do not have to hold the other end, so its less hassle as if changing just one arm you only have to strip one side down, no need for two spanners. Jeff

Yes we normally change them with the exhaust on but in this case a new exhaust was been fitted so took the opportunity to change the hicas arms before the new one was fitted....much easier. Thats not a bad idea, would keep them all together for all to see in one place rather than searching, and always happy to add more. Jeff

Hicas arm/ rod replacements a common issue that will at some time effect all twin turbo`s with the hicas rear steering fitted. Once the wear has been correctly identified as the arms rather then the outer bush changing them is fairly straight forward but it helps to have the correct tools and parts at hand. (17 mm spanner, side cutters 2 x30 mm spanner, 1 pair of grips, split pins, hicas arms 2 x cable ties ball splitter) The outer rod end has a spilt pin that needs removing, then undo the 17 mm securing nut, a ball splitter helps with parting the rod end from the outer bush. The gaiters are held in place by wire clips, cut this with a pair of side cutters taking care to not catch the rubber gaiter, once the clip is removed pull the gaiter clear of the ball joint. Whether you are changing one or both arms you need to do undo both gaiters, then with two 30 mm spanners one on each of the inner ball joint nut flats undo them against each other. Only one will come undone, the other needs to be undone a slightly different way. Now undo the stopper lock ring and adapter, this when removed gives access to a 17 mm flat on the steering rack ram so it can be held in place whilst the remaining arm can be undone. One real important tip is when using the ram flat the old arm should be reinserted first as the ram is hollow and will deform if there is no arm fitted, this will wreck the ram and the new hicas arm will not fit in the thread and hence a new rack will be needed. Now with a 30 mm spanner and a 17 mm spanner the other arm can be remove. Refitting the arms is a reverse of the removal, but the rear steering will need tracking, if you go along to any two wheel alignment place they can do it by reverse fitting their 2 wheel kit, 0+ 1 toe in is a good setting for low tyre wear but firm track. The effects of worn arms can range from slight unsettled feeling to dangerous, by far the most common failure and the most beneficial to replace, most drivers will be pleased by the change in how their their zed feels after worn arms are replaced, some MOT stations miss them not understanding the hicas system so just because your zed has an MOT does not mean your hicas arms are good. Worth checking, with the wheels off the floor and hand brake off check by placing your hands at the quarter to three position and pulling and pushing to feel for wear, its useful if a second person can hold the outer bush and the inner bush to detect the wear, sometimes it can be both but most of the time its the arm/ rod. Jeff TT

Pm is for subscribed members only. Jeff TT

If you want to cancel the order thats no problem. Jeff TT

No do not undo the stroker nut, the splitter was to release the arm at the other end from the outer hub bush but you say you have done that right? so no worries your nearly there. Jeff

Lightened up a bit for you pablito, bit grainy though, digital camera`s take better pics in the daytime. Jeff

Your thinking too deep, to remove anyone of the hicas arms you need to undo and pull back both gaiters, you need two spanners so that will be you and Micky..................... JUST JOKING!!!! one spanner on the inner socket as it is called above, they are on normal threads but are opposing so hold one to undo the other one. No fluid will come out, but you need to release the arm your changing from the outer hub bush by removing the split pin, undo the 17mm nut and then you need a ball joint splitter ( screw type not chisel type) . Refit the same as removal, one tip is when undoing the arms with the two spanners (lol...sorry ) brace the one you do not want to undo and put the force on the one you do want to remove or the wrong one will come undone. Hope that helps Jeff TT Ball joint splitter

The air con dash staying lit when key out is an issue we have seen a few times, the issue comes down to the accessory relay in the rear of the fuseboard remaining energised. This can be caused by either, a faulty ignition switch, a faulty (sticky ) accessories relay or a wring fault back feeding the fuse box accessories rail. the later is often caused by after market equipment such as alarms or imobilisors even stereo`s badly installed can cause this. A sticky relay is a possibility and changing it is the easiest method, however getting to it means the fusebox needs to be removed from the drivers side footwell which is a ball ache, one tip is to remove the drivers seat to at least prevent you breaking your spine!! The ignition switch is reasonable easy to test with a multi meter, by removing the steering cowling the back of the switch is accessible, with the keys out only a single +12v should be there, will the key in position one there should be a new 12v+ output this is the accessories relay feed, check to see if this goes off with the key removed if not then change the switch, if it does it one of the other causes. Hope that helps Jeff TT

Thats providing the parts turn up after been paid for.....short memories some peeps have eh? Jeff TT

:shock: :shock: :shock: Jeff TT

Love retro, had an Opel Monza GSE in the 80`s loved every minute of it, drove it to the South of France many times, have a photo somewhere of it parked up on the Monacco race circuit!! still pop up on ebay some times and they are still very tempting! Jeff Opel Monza Gse 3.0litre straight six 190bhp wicked

I posted a thread a not too long ago about balancer bar brackets been incorrectly fitted resulting in an air /boost leak. http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=147345 The bar has a bracket on the drivers side which sit on top and is secured by the same fixings that hold the balancer bar itself down.The bracket to be fitted in-between the bar and the plenum rather than on top of the bar, the outcome of this is a substantial air / boot leak. This leak can effect both turbo and non turbo zeds and will lead to bad fuelling, a grumpy tickover ( my name for it) this also can cause failure to pass emissions testing at MOT time. Again today we see the very same issue on a zed in the workshop, this is the third time in two weeks, just a coincidence maybe, but on the other hand I would recomend everyone checks their zed.... just to be sure. Jeff TT

I posted a thread a not too long ago about balancer bar brackets been incorrectly fitted resulting in a an air /boost leak. http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=147345 The bar has a bracket on the drivers side which sit on top and is secured by the same fixings that hold the balancer bar itself down.The bracket to be fitted in-between the bar and the plenum rather than on top of the bar, the outcome of this is a substantial air / boot leak. This leak can effect both turbo and non turbo zeds and will lead to bad fuelling, a grumpy tickover ( my name for it) this also can cause failure to pass emissions testing at MOT time. Again today we see the very same issue on a zed in the workshop, this is the third time in two weeks, just a coincidence maybe, but on the other hand I would recomend everyone checks their zed.... just to be sure. Jeff TT

Are the rear side lights working or not? Jeff

plane landing wheel front wheel on left lock, how this did not break?? look at the wheels at the end too!!! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqtetx7iAz8&feature=related Jeff TT

Ok the alloy bar is a support for the larger oil cooler fitted to the UK models only. If you can get to the fixings at each end (2 x 12mm ) and undo them them and remove the bar for better access, the oil cooler will tip forward slightly now too. The recirc valves have two 12mm bolts holding them in and the pipes of course, with the air box/ induction kit / bar removed it should be much easier, however if your still struggling a bit remove the lower under tray for even more access. Jeff TT

Lee you know where to come for help!! pm me your prefered shipping address, have all what you need, can send them tomorrow for Tuesday delivery. Jeff TT

You naughty boy!!! ok on the passenger side of the rear of the engine at the sump level there is a side bracket held onto the block by two 14mm bolts, remove these and the bracket, assuming the splash plate between the engine and gearbox is still in pull this down, these now gives access to the bolts. Rotate the engine till each one in turn becomes accessable to undo and remove, be carefull as the box has likely to be split apart from the engine and undoing the torque convertor at this point may make it shift so have a jack unde it ir similar. With the torque convertor undone the angle to remove the engine will be different now, and you will not be trying to pull the torque convertor off the gearbox input shaft which is whats been stopping you. Jeff

Ok not seen that, you would need to just work out which of the four pipes to link together to give you two pipe to keep the split braking system. Jeff TT

You did undo the four bolts to the torque conervertor didn`t you? if not it ain`t going come out that way! Jeff TT