JeffTT

Mmm... anything is adaptable I suppose but with brakes I would not advice it, get the right master cylinder, will save you a whole lot of grief anyway. Jeff TT

Here is the fix for the lights.... Seriously though, you could use them for practise tinting before getting some better ones to do. Jeff TT

Code 21 is a non starter code, so as your is running is on old code that will not have any bearing on your present issue. Revs hunting can be too low base idle, tps issues, throttle balance, temp sensor etc. bad connection are as likely a cuprit as any too, if the code is bothering you then clear it by disconnecting the battery for an hour or so. Failing that will sort it for you Wednesday. Jeff TT

Updated pictures of the repair, the wheel looks real nasty on the inside edge and the tyre has been cut quite badly down the tread pattern. With the wheel off you the lower arm damage is more visible, the drop link was bent as well as the sheered tension rod arm. The lower arm bush were it locates into the sub frame had literally been torn out and was just about holding on, if this had failed the wheel would have tucked up under the car possibly causing even more damage. Even the tyre had not come out undamaged, along a section of the thread pattern a deep cut ran through it, looking back to the rear part of the wheel arch the liner had a slit in it, when looking behind the line all becomes clear, there is a body seam that protrudes forward and this had done the damage to the tyre. With all damaged parts removed a few repairs to the sub frame were required, luckily the damage turned out to be less than originally thought. So on with all the new parts, alignment and new wheels and all was good, a road test proved all was back to normal and today it went straight through the MOT after we had changed the very worn hicas arms. Now the hicas arms may well of contributed to the unstable road holding on the day the accident happened, worth checking these things, jack up the rear wheels enough to be just clear of the floor and hold the wheel at the quarter to three position and shake left and right, there should be NO movement if there is, then check at the half past six position if there is movement there also its likely to be the wheel bearing, however the most common issue is the hicas arms or the outer hub bushes, not overly expensive but make a world of difference to the handling. Jeff

Run for the hills she is gonna blow!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! here is what you need to do to get the engine temp down and SAFE remove the electric fan and put it in one of these Any one dont worry about getting the correct colour because either way you will be saving the planet from a melted zed! Then reinstall the viscous fan that Nissan spent £££££££££ developing to keep their Z32 engine at the correct temperature. Ok all joking apart I am yet to be conviced that any electric fan currently been marketed can keep the z engine safe, with electric fans they mostly run too hot and at some times way, way to hot. If you measure the blade surface area multiply this by the amount of blades, then add the speed of the blades and the pitch angle what you end up with is around 3,000 which by sheer chance is around the cost in pounds of a rebuild after the engine has gone into melt down!! Over the past 2 or 3 years the amount of overheated zeds we have dealt with has increased, the number of electric fan kits been sold has also increased...... no mystery there then. Sorry Medaliion Man if that sounded sarcastic it was simply to get over my point about the dangerous temp readings of your engine please concider putting your viscous fan back on, if you dont have it let me know I will send you one. Ok the high aav reading can be caused by a lack of hard idle switch which could be caused by an incorrect setting,poor connection at the tps or even a wiring issue, its also possible the free diagnostic software not having all the functions on it, the screen you have posted does shows it greyed out when it should be bold? A very low base idle setting will cause the aav to go high reading too, try disconneting the yellow plug on the top of the aav unit to see if the revs drop to next to nothing, if so the base idle screw is on the side, anti-clock wise for higher revs clock-wise for lower revs, any changes should be made with the yellow plug disconected or if the software allows in the tickover screen. Jeff

Fairlady drive, Burntwood, Staffs. Jeff TT

Jeff TT

Yes, but it was full right lock with brakes on as well...makes me wince just thinking about it, especially for his alloy wheel. :no: Jeff

The readings you have there need to be done again when the engine is not running so HOT!!!!! 93c jeez!!!! you going melt it if that continues to rise. Some of the readings will be effected by the high temp, the aac is way to high at 62% should be 15% at idle, this could be raised though due to the high temp, The injection pulse is quite low for stadard injectors at 1.8m sec, should be more like 2.1 msec are your running different injectors? The closed throttle is missing and by the way the 02 sensors are supposed to read up and down as they alternate between lean and rich to give a mean average. ***IMPORTANT*** One thing I cannot stress enough is to look into the very high coolant temps, this is the number one killer of zed engines. Once that is sorted see what the readings are then. Jeff TT

All done and finished today, a quick test drive this afternoon and its back on form,of course with different wheels fitted to the front while the owner gets a new one, did a photo journel of the repair to post her but left the camera at work!!! will post up tomorrow oh and MOT in the morning Jeff

Don`t think he wants to go through the insurance. Jeff

The wheel and tie rod damage are almost identical eh?? Jeff TT

Retarded ignition, boost leaks, det sensor fault, tps incorrectly set, throttle balance way out, faulty air flow meter, any combination of these will and can cause issues similar to what you have. You need a boost leak test doing, a ful diagnostic to check settings and sensor operation anything less is wasting time and money. Caliper issue will need either a rebuild or a replacement caliper which is often the quickest and most economicaly way to go. Hope that helps Jeff

A couple more pic, and yes all fixable...at a cost of course, a cost the unfortunate owner was not planning on spending of course, as it arrived later this afternoon no chance to strip down yet, will follow through with the inspection tomorrow and the repair here with pics. and yes gutted is the only way I can describe the owners situation. Jeff

Bad luck befell a zed owner today, travelling to us for an MOT a mistake, slippy road surface or both and seconds later one zed sitting odd on the passenger side and the n/s front wheel buried hard into the kerb. A recovery truck ride to the workshop (nice truck) and we soon had it on the four poster. The wheel looks particlar sorry for itself, in the flesh as it were it looks horrid the alloy has been eaten away by the kerb, if that did not look bad enough the inner side of the wheel is worse! still can not work out how the tyre has any air in it? As your look more the damage just goes on, the lower arm having been severly twisted and the adjustable tension rod arm has snapped clean through. The lower arm has been pushed so hard back its has torn the web of the subframe where the lower arm is bolted up to it! Multiple damage sites, the lower arm, the tension rod arm, the antiroll bar bracket, the wheel etc. The wheel had been pushed back much further than first thought as can be seen by moving the rear wheel arch liner back to reveal damage to the lower bulhead. Be careful! the roads are so.... slippy at the moment, this is the third accident zed we have dealt with in the past 10 days. Jeff

Change the cambelt when your in there as a leaking pump will have been pouring scalding water over the belt. Jeff tt

Safety boost has two parts to it, one reduction of the boost level, so hence with them disconnected the level would be lower at around 5.5psi however with a boost controller fitted this would be of no consequence. However the second part of safety boost is ignition timing retardation, if the det sensor circuit failed or was correctly activated by detonation the timing would be retarded until such time the fault is cleared or the engine switched off, the boost would remain the same though. Jeff TT

The best one for the job sometimes:yes: Jeff

Fitting a pair of tubular headers to a non turbo zed sounds like a much lesser job than a the same job on a twin turbo...yes it is easier but still Nissan do like their small spaces that's for sure. The headers below were recovered from a breaker of ours a few week ago and here they are ready to fit. Of course before fitting among many things including the exhaust, starter motor and old standard headers needed removing, here after a few choice words the old manifolds are removed. So onwards and the new manifolds are fitted and the view from above is limited.......... ...but from below is more satisfying, just the exhaust to go on, and the pesky steering is very close!! luckily the 02 sensor had already been moved position and the boss rewelded in. Acknowledgement to Jamie for his skinned knuckles!! Jeff TT

To save his blushes as the top distmantler.....you should see him with an angle grinder!!! Jeff

Accident damage can be difficult to call sometimes and dismantling to check behind panels is sometimes inevitable but when you look at the front bumper in the firsts picture you could be forgiven for thinking the damage would be mainly bumper related. However from previous experience it seemed prudent to remove the damaged panels to look closer, and as suspected the amount of damage behind the bumper was extensive. So much undoing and removing of parts Jamie ended up with a small pile of bits. Rear damage to the bumper. All is revealed, even the afm and air box has been damaged The impact has rippled though the headlight bowl and disturbed the bottom section with some area's bent down and some bent up. The impact had gone further still twisting the near side slam panel, the entire headlight bowl and upright has moved back and up. With some damage to the rear also the repair is going to take a little time, assuming we get the go ahead ( distmanted for insurance quote ) I will post the various steps to this as we go. Do not underestimate small impacts. Jeff TT

I did ensure the meta tags were from text also on the pages, I also have invisable text ( cloured same as background) for the searches to find. Once had an issue with a site called Bedworld that was ahead on the ratings on the Google site but that seems to not be an issue any longer, I do actively update lesser known search or review sites with our details and try to link it to as many other sites that I can. Jeff

Yes to a degree, if there is no pipework leaks at all you can pressure it up and should be able leave it 30 seconds or so and pull off one of the small vacuum pipes there should be pressure still present. Jeff TT

This is what is in use at the moment, surely enoug here? Jeff META NAME="Keywords" CONTENT=" nissan,300zx,garage,300zx specialist, twin turbo, 300zx, parts, zedworld, jeff tt, 300 zx parts, service,repair, nissan,300 zx, power upgrade, zx, twin turbo, 60 k cam belt service, Z32 upgrades, non turbo, imports, UK spec, hicas, Conzult softtware, ecu upgrades, turbo boost,">

Yes dont understand the issue as there are at least 10 imbeded meta tags on each page, and a Google search for Zedworld I just did bought up a full page of hits?? here: http://www.google.co.uk/search?hl=en&source=hp&biw=1020&bih=567&q=Zedworld&btnG=Google+Search&aq=f&aqi=g1g-sx4g-v1g-sv1g-v3&aql=&oq= Jeff TT