groover

This may help: http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?169246-Wing-mirror-wiring And this the colour wiring diagram D48-50 http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=89377&d=1438023474

Japspeed havent renewed their membership, after many emails to remind them, although they are not official traders here, their listing hasnt been removed from the traders section yet. I know for sure the manifolds are for left hand drive cars, those that have bought them in the past can vouch for the O2 sensor placement on the drivers side. As for the downpipes, seems to be a lottery on the batch you get them from, not consistent at all.

You have to remember guys that the Japspeed stuff is designed for the US market and therefore the downpipes are based on the left hand drive models. They can be fitted with a bit of persuasion with a lump hammer, some people have issues and some including myself at the time no issues. May be a batch issue or design change, i know the manifolds were designed for left hand drive the O2 sensor on the drivers side had to be moved as the union would catch the steering shaft.

Happy Birthday Lee, all the best :thumbup:

Ive never had one apart and in most cars ive dealt with that had a motor problem, we just replaced it lol, will be worth trying another window motor, also have you looked at the window amp, this has a fair bit of control over both windows and might have a short on the board causing the issue. Might be worth trying the window amp first possibly. Could be the bushes in the motor warn on one side, not giving the juice it requires....

Congratulations to the inlaws, a great achievement :thumbup1:

Thats what im doing Ash, i have a UKTT that im putting into the yellow NA. There are no fixings for the side mount intercoolers, but you could go for a front mounted one, a little fabrication for pipework. You can use the NA loom, you wont have boost solenoid wires but use aftermarket boost controller and no issues, but im going to strip the loom from the TT, including fuel pump, ecu and associated wiring and install as much as i can that i need. Its not a straight forward drop in and play, but more than viable IMO Plenty of write ups for the conversion, so weigh it up yourself :thumbup1:

Happy Birthday mate, all the best :thumbup:

Thats good to know, i guess we havent had many questions on the European version regarding cats :thumbup:

Happy Birthday Paul, all the best :thumbup:

Its coming off tomorrow lol, been working away all weekend :thumbup1:

I got the 18's and already have front spacers for my existing wheels, so may not need to do anything on mine, although a long way off yet lol Yours is a definite contender for car of the month/year, would be nice to see it shown at the NEC classic car show :bow:

Looks great Daz, did you have to use any spacers on the wheels?

I would imagine you have cats each side and not the extra precat on the pass downpipe after the turbo, get some pics up :thumbup1:

Its really easy, use a smallish flat blade screwdriver and with the dash facing you slide the screwdriver in under the tab and lift, thus sliding the plastic tab of the plastic cover towards you out of the tab holder. Get the top ones out first and the bottom literally glide out when using the screwdriver to do the same :thumbup1:

Only in the lower binnacle, nothing to do with the dials, of course im assuming when he says clocks he is talking about the dash dials, the lower surround has the AT etc but the lenses can be changed out to suit

You get NA or TT clocks, it makes no difference whether its manual or auto :thumbup1:

It may come with gaskets but if not, use some gasket exhaust sealant, most exhaust fitters/garages use the stuff

Only UK TT cars had a pre cat on the passenger side downpipe, so if yours is a Jap then no worries :thumbup1:

Speaker boxes are designed with air volume in mind, ie ported or sealed for efficiency, take a read of the link below, will shed some light on it all :thumbup1: http://www.diyaudioandvideo.com/Tutorial/DesignBuildSpeakerBox/

Thanks for your support Adam and no auto renew im afraid and im sure you would rather be in control of how and when you pay :yes:

I have a chipped NA ecu, its quite aggressive though apparently as the vvt comes in at higher revs than standard, but does extend the rev limiter and with everything lightened and single prop, made it a livelier drive and felt a real difference in the higher rev band than when it was standard.

Thats great news, hopefully now you can enjoy zedding without worry :thumbup:

Mine have been in the loft for over 6 months, havent even thought about tyres yet :scared:

Dremel buffer is too small and can create tram lines. You need to apply a fair amount of pressure when buffing, so i use a 3" wheel with a polishing mop and finishing paste on something small or delicate. At the end of the day if you are happy with the result then dont risk having to do it again if you feel you dont need too :biggrin: