Dutchy

little bit fiidly to get that off, not much room. As said take the battery out after warming through. small ratchet and 3 inch extention should do it. When you take the intake tubes to throttle bodies of, make sure the clips are completely slack, the pipes are warm. Then try moving the nearest end on the pipe towards you standing from the front and twist. If you taking them all of put a mark or something on them, otherwise their may be some head scratching when you put them back.

if you are talking about the hydraulic lifters then the stock ones shouldnt be solid.

i wouldnt of thought either box wil last very long with the kind of power mac1 runs. I'm sure I heard somewhere the skyline 6 speed box will go in, if your bank manager will let you ofcourse.

is the car actually overheating??? boiling up etc..... from what you describe it doesnt seem that abnormal to me. Your not loosing any water i take it. It might be an idea to fit an aftermarket temperature gauge, atleast that way you can be sure what the temperature actually is. I'm not sure what governs the fan cutting in, i know its temperature obviously but whats the trigger for it???? could it be a control problem??

lol, ok then, silly me lol

will you not have to split/remove the turbo chargers to change the manifolds???? The inboard two bolts on the four bolt flange to turbo charger inlet are allmost impossible to get to with the engine in.

its a pain in the backside to get to that litle jasper, just out of interest why do you need it off, if you plan to leave the egr in place???

sack the autobox, go with the conversion. Thats my opinion anyway

Yep, what you'll find over time, is that theres an awful lot of "unnecessaries" in the engine bay. This is only down to what i feel was over engineering from nissan, but bear in mind this car was way ahead of its time. The autobox is a weak link on these cars, most people who have autos like myself have had to have another box put in or have opted for a manual conversion which is next for me to do. These cars can be the best and the worst in the world which i guess is why so many owners get the Z-bug. If you look ih the FAQs section you'll find an engine by numbers section, this is most helpful for people who are new to these cars and gives you a quick heads up on what your looking at. As i said before any probs however insignificant you might think they are, post them up as most people are only too happy to help. All the best dutchy

If you suspect belts then check the tension/condition of them, could be alternator bearing on its way. A good run and an oil change is good practise. Any clicking/tapping noise will most probably hydraulic lifters sticking abit, which is common especially if the cars been sat for a while. In my experience these engines dont like being sat for extensive periods of time, so some strange noises are no suprise. Its notoriously difficult to pin point certain sounds to specific areas. Like with any fault finding its a question of starting with the easy things to disregard them. One word of advice, is to make sure you keep on top of any maintenance, things that can be done easily such as oil changes, filters, electrical connectors etc..... keeping those sort of things in good shape will certainly help keep your z healthy. With this car a simple fault on a connector can ruin the way it runs and can be a headache to find. Anyway wlecome to the forum, i think you'll find here, peoples knowledge of the z second to none, so any problems you encounter post them up here, theres plenty of help on hand. Happy zeding Dutchy

not much point running twin filters, on that set up, IMO the only way to go for twin filters is a doolz intake. Just one thing i saw i the mod list, did you say you were considering a manual type boost controller????????? I'd forget that if I were you, if you want more boost then your better of paying the money for an EBC. But be warned, unless the z is running nicely and in good health, then increasing the boost is going to be detrimentle to the car's health.

i'm sure there will be bud, if you have questions post them on here, they will be answered. theres a wealth of 300zx knowledge available to you on here, its a top site.

i have the whole thing in pdf format, i'd email it to you but not sure how big the file is i'd have to check

tein is a recognised and respected manufacturer of suspension parts, not sure about those ebay numbers, never seen them before.

it never took me three hours i'll have you know. bout an hour of fiddling lol. Anyways seeing as you two smart arses done it in ten mins, how the hell do you get the headlight out,lol.

lol, when i changed the bulbs last time i did it with the lamps in place, this is where i discovered the clip was sh*gged, so now the drivers side will have to come out, great.

ahhh, so it can be replaced then, thats a touch. Right heres another one for you then, how do you get the headlight out, the front bumper is off at the moment, but i still cant really see how its secured, am i just not looking hard enough,lol??????

Is the spring clip that secures the bulb holder in, integral to the light housing, or can they be replaced as one of mines knackered. So the bulb doesnt sit properly, putting the car through its MOT soon and thats another job i need to get sorted.

as for parts, if the upper arms turn out to be shot then probably the best idea to invest in a good set of adjustables, but then really, you.ll need to get rose jointed tension rods aswell. The lower arm can be rebushed, its quite easy to get the lower arm of, one point to watch for is that, at the wheel end of the lower arm is an integral ball joint, now you'll need to undo the nut on top of it to get the arm off, if the nuts been of there for years, which you have to assume is has, make sure you use plenty of WD to try and free it up abit, if you just go to town on the nut, the chances are the joint will throw its hand in, then its a real pain, trust me ive done it, lol

hmmmm, probably the most likely one is the upper arms, whip them off and check them. Its fairly easy to do, make sure you remember which bolt went in which end as they are a slightly different diameter, refitting them is the hardest bit you'll have to get the third link at exactly the proper angle relative to the upper arm or the bolt will only go about 3/4of the way through, its takes quite abit of pressure to hold it as it should be, once you have done one it becomes clear and then its an easy job.

lol. its the iaac one, when you remove the motor, does it just pull out the same way as the motor???? cant seem to shift mine

checked those links bud, now how do you actually remove the needle valve from the housing, is it through the motor side as the other side has a resin type material moulded into it, it the aac one not the fiac thats easy to remove.

sorry to hijack, but how the hell do you get it apart???

is it when you go over uneven road. or is it constant

are you saying that all the bushes are knackered????