Dutchy

check out these two jokers, http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=hsQCb0TpljA&feature=related http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=oIvQ_TfmCFM&feature=related

yeah those little f*ckers, oh its all coming back now, lol

is the system sound??? freons are one of the most penetrative vapours they WILL find leaks. Check around the system, compressor, condensor, tx v/v, evaporator.

mine are powertrix and ive had no issues with them. never the less those have most certainly seen better days. Just trying to find a reason why they would bend like that. You havent had take of over a speedbump have you,lol. Cant see the thrust washer in the pic are they there???

does it feel like its gonna cut out when you just feather the loud pedal???

the more boost pressure the less of a gap you want, otherwise you can have ignition problems, not sure what the recommended gap is at that pressure maybe around .030, if its a problem then get an amplifier, then you wont have to reduce the gap as much

How can you test them? all you need is a safety pin. Once you find the connectors - both are three pin connectors, with black, black/red, and white wires. Passenger side is near the rear of the passenger side plenum chamber, and driver's side is on the side of the engine, just in front of the master cylinder. Check that the connectors are clean and free of corrosion first. Be careful undoing the connectors, as the rubber seal can drop out into the engine bay, never to be seen again. Warm the car up, and with the car at hot idle and with the connectors all plugged in, insert the open safety pin into the end of the connector along the red wire, making sure that it makes contact with the red wire inside the connector. Connect the voltmeter (low volts range, eg 20 V) with red probe to the safety pin and black to earth. You should see 12 volts DC. Note the engine should be above 2,000rpm while performing the test. Then plug the safety pin into the white wire, making sure that it makes contact with the white wire inside the connector. Connect the voltmeter (low volts range, eg 2 volts) with red probe to the safety pin and black to earth. A good 02 sensor when warm should show the voltage moving between around 0.3 volts DC and around 0.7 volts DC - this is the ECU cycling the oxygen content (via varying the fuel content) to keep the ratio correct. At higher revs, the upper voltage increases from memory, but it always cycles, except possibly at WOT (which I recommend that you DON'T do while parked in the driveway! ). If the voltage reading doesn't cycle, then it's probable that the 02 sensor or cable/connector is stuffed. I'm not sure about the Zed, but some/most 02 sensors take a while to heat up, so until the engine and exhaust are hot enough, the ecu usually operates in 'open loop', which means that the voltage won't vary. Thus, you have to do the test when the engine is hot, eg after a 10 minute drive courtesy of aus300zx

oh well, looks like im gonna have to dust the soldering iron of then, lol cheers

the bottle your talking about it the coolant overflow tank, not a conventional expansion tank, when its full it will dump coolant usually visible from the nearside front bumper at the bottom. You dont fill the cooling system from that bottle, do it directly via the radiator. If you peel back the left side arch liner you'll see the bottle and the level lines on it, that dip stick is rubbish. if you want to empty it to within the lines dissconnect the tube going to the cap and feed it down the front of the rad towards the road surface and let gravity take it course. If the bottle is filling up and your getting coolant dump, check the cooling system pipework for any leakage no matter how small and maybe think about a new rad cap.

right, 1. I was talking about the wires coming from the connector itself, 2in and only one out, other is broken, no fault code mind you ??? 4. I want to know if you could release the wires from the coil pack connectors themselves, without just cutting the wires.

Firstly, it seems on of the wires at the dett sensor conx is well not in the clip ??? i'm sure i read somewhere that this is normal????? secondly, changed my plugs to 11b now the ones that came out turned out to be for a GTO and have a much shorter thread travel, is this gonna have caused damage as the ignition will take place higher up near the valve seats??? 3rd, whats the best way to get on the top bolts to the down pipe on the drivers side, one is not fully in, ive tries from the top of the engine with various extentions ans so forth but no joy. 4th, is it possible to release the wires from the coil pack conx as i have six new ones, and i dont really want to cut and solder them, especially at the back near the balance tube, theres not much to play with there. cheers all Dutchy

lol, not been in the uk for a while, first time back for well about a couple of months lol

i just cut mine flush with the trusty dremmel

if the engine is coming out then i'd definitely do it, and you may as well rip the egr out aswell whilst your at it.

stock sensor is by the egr solenoid i think, drivers side back od engine bay, i think its the one with the small clear tube to it, but i wait to be corrected lol.

if youve done a bypass and cut all the junk from the bottom of the plenum, then you,ll need a length of vac tube to reconnect it to the carbon canister providing you still have it. The pipe should go round the side of the plenum down between the intake piping on the near side.

i did this on my tt, the first time you remove the plenum is a dog of a job as no matter how free you think the plenum is there is always a little rubber hose still on there somewhere, if you take them plenum of you'll see the small diameter pipe work running underneath these eventually go to the turbochargers, any scale forming over the years will reduce flow, increasing velocity hence reducing the efficiency of the cooling system. Once you have done the bypass its far far easier to remove the plenum for future maintenance and you can be assured of flow to the turbos.

bloody hell, down by me you have to pay them to take it off your hands

as already said, i found it pretty repetative. eavesdrop, pickpocket then assasinate ..... although there is ways to do it in a stealth type manner i nearly always find myself surrounded by 10-20 enemies, usually due to the bloody annoying beggers cant resist giving them a slap although if you push them you can get away with it, good fun none the less. especially the last level.

just one thing, detonation and pre-ignition are not the same thing.

thanks for the advice chaps, all the best

i got my kit for from the zcentre, you get all hoses unions etc... its a fairly straightforward job, when i did mine i had a little problem with the adapter plate needed to file the holes out abit but other than that its ok, think i paid around 120 cant remember exactly

Hello all well i am gonna take the plunge and get a manual conversion done, i'm fed up with bloody auto boxes, now i know the auto ecu is ok but mine has a jwt chip init, is this gonna be a problem?????

just looked at this, not sure if you have solved it, but have a close look at where the tension rod bolts to the lower arm, it difficult to see properly. My problem was id brake then when i took my foot of youd get the clunk. Now mine truned out to be extreme cracking of the lower arm where the TR bolts go through, when i took the tension rod of the arm was actually fractured and raised up around the holes, so in effect it was the tension rod holding it together. just a though

Me again I noticed the other day that i'm getting some smoke coming up from the back of the engine drivers side, anyway ive had a look and it seems there a bolt slack, the down pipe to turbo by the 02 sensor, now its the top one you can see by looking down by the brake booster, how the hell do you get on that little bugger, is it better from underneath and do you need a thin wall socket to get it.