Dutchy

Hello Chaps I know theres a link somewhere that tells you how to do this, but i cant find it, so if someone can send me the link or better still tell me the best way to do it, that'd be great. I cant remember which pins you have to put the meter on to get your 0.5/0.45 volts????? Just renewed mine as a matter of course really, now ive got 2000rpm on start up. oh and another thing, just changed the plugs and the ones that came out are a pfr6J, thats the wrong plug isnt it, because ive put in 6B-11b and theres a marked difference in the length of the threaded part of the plug!!!!!!!!! Thanks in advance people

Hello All, Now, it appears ive got both gaskets gone from the rear of the centre piece to the back boxes, the rear ssection is a scorpion jobbie, not sure if the centre piece is the original or an aftermarket, but never the less the joints are proper corroded up, looks like someones had ago with some sealent at one time or another and made a right mess of it,lol. anyway i'll get to the point, obviously i'll need two new joints, can i pick up a "generic" from my mate harry halfords or have i gotta have the proper part, if so where can i get it??? thanks in advance. Dutchy

there about $150 new from courtesy nissan, but then you'll have to allow for postage etc...

a new lower arm will include the ball joint, when my lower arm disintegrated on me I sourced some lower arms from the chaps on here, if its new one your after then speak too dan@DTA or Mike feeney. Other wise check out courtesy nissan, you'll find them online but there a US based company so the money you save by the pound/dollar difference may be lost on postage and taxes etc...

absolutely 99specs all day

its abit dubious that, anyway as far as I know thats integral to the lower arm and cannot be replaced seperately.

hmmmmmmmmm, i dont think it'll be head gasket bud, not showing nearly zero compression anyway. I refuse to believe theres no rings in there, so really i would think it has to be valve related. Where the heads rebuilt by any chance????

its gotta be a duff test, cant possibly be nearly zero. Even if the head gasket was leaking i doubt it would be that low. I also cant imagine someone "forgetting" to put the rings in either. To be that low there's almost zero seal in the cylinder, valves have been put in properly havent they???

zero!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! what the are the others???????? the ones adjacent i mean.

copper washer does not need to be renewed, if your putting mega torque on the sump plug then your over tightening it. It is however advised that you anneal the washer, heat it with a butane/propane torch until cherry red then quench in water. the annealing process will soften the washer making it fine to be reused. When you put the new filter on, smear only a very thin film of new oil onto the rubber seal and make sure the mating face is totally clean. You may have to prime the filter depending on type, it will say on the filter box or body. Tightening the filter should be done by hand, screw it in until the faces mate then about another half turn by hand is enough, its the seal that makes it tight, not the ammount of torque on the filter.

If a vehicle fails for high CO at idle and /or fast idle then.... if Lambda is too low, the mixture is too rich. This can be caused either by a misfire or by a faulty Lambda sensor. If it's running very rich, the 02 and HC will be higher than normal. If it has a high Lambda and high 02 (0.5 to 1.5%), the "CAT" could be faulty. Before condemning it make sure its hot enough to work, the Lambda and other sensors are working as they should.If the vehicle fails for high HC then ...if the CO passes, the vehicle is probably misfiring. Or if the CO fails and the Lambda reading is too low, the mixture is probably too rich and it may also be misfiring. If the CO fails, the Lambda reading is high and the O2 reading is high (0.5 to 1.5%) the "CAT" could be faulty. Again check out the simple measures above before condemning it. If the Lambda fails then...if its too high the Lambda sensor may be faulty, the mixture may be too weak or there may be a hole in the exhaust downpipe. If Lambda is too low the sensor may be faulty, the mixture may be rich or the vehicle may be misfiring.

right it seems that for cars used pre 07/92 then its only a meter test carried out for CO which is carbon monoxide not CO2 which is carbon dioxide. And hydrocarbons @ 1200ppm limit. Now look at what ive put up for CO emissions problems, forgot to put down rich A/F mix, Where the O2 and HC levels elevated aswell????? If so i would consider checking the O2 sensors by self ecu diagnostic, or by voltmeter or oscillascope to check the waveform switching from rich to lean. Also check you havent got a blown joint in the exhaust downpipes. You could purposely run lean, removing vac tube or delibrately run on 5 cylinders by disconecting a coil pack, but then you may way fail on HC's

hmmmmmmm, maybe you have an 02 sensor fault. I'm not sure i agree with this 3.5% CO2 business, at the end of the day, the higher the value of C02 the better combustion your getting up to a point of around 15%. Anyway, here just a few little pointers on what can cause emmisions problems. Excessive HC Ignition System Failures Lean A/F Mix Excessive EGR dillution Plugged fuel injectors leaking exhaust valves incorrect timing Carbon Monoxide Excessive Fuel Pressure @ injector Leaky Injector FPR diaphragm knackered Crankcase fuel contamination PCV valves Excessive NOx Cooling system faults (Radiator restricted, thermostat, low level coolant etc...) Lean A/F mix o2 sensor fault, slow switching EGR valve stuck, blocked etc... Improper spark advance Carbon deposits on intake valves

what a suprise, seems most mot test stations are obsessed with bloody headlights. Did they say the actual adjuster is knackered, you can repair these to a certain extent its usually the plastic pinion thats had it. How high was the carbon monoxide???? you can remove a pipe from the balance tube to aid emmisions just while they test it. Depends where the corrosion on the pipes is, i'm affraid it could be a subframe down job to replace those, get underneath and have a look, you could "tart" them up abit, but be aware there is a safety factor here.

you can pump them out on the pedal fella, they usually go but be very careful when doing it.

ooooooooo 16g's let me know how the car runs with these please.

I would certainly change the oil if you cant be sure when it was last done, thinner/new good quality oil solved my ticking probs to a certain extent, but it does come back from time to time, Its probable the lifters themselves are the age of the car, so their not going to be in fantastic condition anyway. You'll find alot of zed's have suffered with this a one time or another, but definitely worth an oil change and a good run, before you consider new lifters as thats quite a large expense, especially if you get a garage to do the work for you.

thanks very much chaps, i'll do the job sometime next week. cheers

usually a ticking noise is the hydraulic lifters sticking a little, how long since the car had an oil change, you can also purchase lifter cleaner, try running around with that for a couple of hundred miles then change the oil.

Need to change the PAS pot as mine rusted and generally looks in poor condition, when i change it do I have to worry about air ingress into the system, and if so whats the method to bleed the air???

150 psi is roughly ten bar, not sure of the fuel pump discharge pressure, but i wouldnt of thought the line pressure will be anywhere near 10bar.

pascals is best.

agreed, offset needs to be "close", and you certainly cant size the tyre without the width of the wheel.

I always thought it was 8mm to be honest. I'm sure the old stuff I took off was 8mm I remember measuring it up with the verniers to size the new stuff.

i also replaced mine with marine spec 8mm, no problems