Joely P

Use the smaller of the 2 collars under the spring (this will prevent that collar from loosening) to rotate it with weight off the wheels. Make sure you can still see the threaded portion of the shock through the witness hole (which is about an inch down the bottom bracket from the locking collar) as this marks the maximum safe height adjustment. On mine, I found that I couldn’t go high enough with the witness hole so I had to decrease the preload in order to gain height!

If you’re not doing the preload there is no need to touch the double locking collars at the base of the springs, you just use them with your key to turn the assembly round once the lower collar is loose. If you’re lowering the car, you will be screwing that threaded portion further into the bottom bracket, if this is the case, make sure you clean up the threads going into it and lubricate them so you don’t damage the coating. The easiest way to do the adjustment is to wind the locking collar up, the amount you want to go down and turn the shock until it touches the collar, then lock it back up again. It’s always a good idea to give these some TLC as a maintenance item to keep them in good condition so give the whole lot a good clean up and reprotect whilst you’re there.

Assuming you just want to adjust the ride height and not the preload(?), you just unlock the lower collar onto the bottom bracket and use your keys to rotate the shock assembly in the correct direction. This will screw the shock absorber into or out of the bottom bracket and lower, or raise the ride height.

I’ve not yet ventured into the world of ceramic coatings, mainly because I have a plethora of products that do the job and probably 2 lifetimes worth of them products! However I have read great things about them, they will generally do the very same job but will tend to last longer and be more durable. Just make sure you really go into town at the preparation stage before you apply them otherwise they won’t last long. I have always read positive things about the Gtechniq brand though and the C5 wheel sealant is something that’s been on my radar for a while now. I may get a cheeky 15ml bottle of that and give them a go whilst my wheels are off for my current brake upgrade. https://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/gtechniq-c5-wheel-armour

I never tried it myself but I’ve seen it done! To be honest, if you keep them well protected then they should stay in reasonable condition, if not “as new” for a long time and if you did need to polish them up a bit, they’ll come back very quickly by hand or with a drill as Richie says because it should only be minor.

You should reprotect the accessible parts of the wheels with the sealant you use after each wash. When/if it does come to them needing a full polish up, you can use the car to assist you for the most part. Chock the front wheels, jack the back end up from the diff and secure wit stands, start her up, select first gear and work away! It is very hillbilly and pretty darn dangerous but if you use something like a paintbrush handle with the polishing pad attached so your hands are kept clear and worked away carefully with face protection, you should see good results. It’s likely that you’d have to do the extreme inner section manually but you could get the bulk of it done this way. Mask off the area where the inner barrel and outer barrel meet (and the bolt heads) before you start so you don’t inadvertently scuff the wrong area!

I had the rims polished on my old 18” wheels and they weren’t too bad at all to maintain being a fair weather car. I had the initial polish done by a specialist company and then kept them well protected so they stayed looking good for a long time before requiring a quick buff. There are lots of products on the market that will do the job of protecting them but I found that Collinite 476s made a good durable coating. Whilst you’re there, you should apply the wax to the entire wheel making sure you don’t miss any areas (you could even go over them twice to be sure), then give them a quick coat if sealant as a “sacrificial layer”! With them protected like this, the next wash will see them clean up with with ease using only soap and water (assuming you haven’t used the car through a harsh winter or left it for 3 years before you wash it!). Never use any chemical wheel cleaners or any description, no matter how PH friendly they are as you won’t need to! I’d recommend that you reapply the protection to the rim every 6-12 months, depending on how miles you cover, how regularly you wash it and how easily the dirt is coming off. I would also remove the wheels for a full works every 12-18 months. If you use the car on the track, these intervals will need to be reduced.

It’s quite common for the drive mechanism to shear. It’s then possible that the motor side of the drive is freely rotating away from the mirror side when you retract them and once you’ve pushed the mirror in, the mechanism simply pushes the sheared sections together to move it back out again. So it can push but not pull. Take the mirror off and inspect the motor drive.

I suggested to Luke that the Mongoose would be worth £250, I genuinely had no idea that these were now fetching in the region of £400! I paid £200 for mine but that was 10 years ago now, at the time they were £450 new. Looking back through the classifieds, there have been a handful of these sold in the last couple of years but they have all been in the £200 region. The last one sold by Banzai Breakers was £275.

:rofl:

How much did they remove last time Lee? And how much has been removed from the block during machining? Didn’t you have an issue with one of your camshaft being stiff to turn?

Here’s a little pictorial of what I mean: On any thread select web view This will open up the forum on your default web browser within tapatalk, select classifieds and navigate your way through to list your item. Click submit new thread to make it live Click done and this will bring you back into tapatalk. Now you can see your thread in new posts or whatever you use, and go in to edit it if required and also add pictures. I find adding pictures easier using tapatalk so I always do that this way.

I use tapatalk too and when I want to list something in the classifieds, I click the “web view” option on any thread then just navigate through the normal website. Once the thread is submitted, click “done” and you can then edit the thread content and add pictures etc within tapatalk.

I found the best price was here: https://www.allcarpartsfast.co.uk/renault/renault-1643916e0a-clip/ Don’t worry about the Renault thing, they’re all the same OEM. When I sorted my fuel system, some came in a Nissan bag and some in a Renault bag that said “Made in Japan”, identical parts.

Whilst you’re at it, you should also consider replacing all the fuel hose from the filter and back. Not only is it likely that you’ll damage some of this hose on removal but these old fuel hoses are a common cause of fuel and vapour leaks.

You can get the fuel damper and fuel pressure regulator from UK sources. Mike Feeney (MJP Eastern Auto), our club trader, will be able to get these for you, or your local Nissan dealership depending on who serves you (especially armed with part numbers), or you can get them from here: https://www.allcarpartsfast.co.uk/nissan/nissan-2267510y00-damper-assy-fue/ https://www.allcarpartsfast.co.uk/nissan/nissan-2267010y00-regulator-assy/ If these components, that are currently installed on your car, aren’t finished in the silver as pictured above, you should replace them anyway as it would suggest that they were installed from new. This is s service item that should be replaced every 10 years.

It shouldn’t sit at 0 on idle, -7x100mmHg is good.

Careful pinching that air regulator pipe as it’ll likely split! Removing the hose and blanking it might be the best option. Out of curiosity, when you start from cold and it revs up, does it ever drop down or does it just stay at 1500 when hot?

If you do decide to remove the IACV for cleaning/inspection, that pic clearly shows the location of the 4x10mm bolts holding it on. I’d recommend removing the small scuttle trim and the battery for easier access. You’ll need a new gasket for when you refit PN 2378540F00 https://www.allcarpartsfast.co.uk/nissan/nissan-2378540f00-gskt-aac-valve/

For reference, this is the AAC connnector to remove. You need to remove the retaining clip with a pick (and a magnet so you don’t drop/lose it!) and then you can gently pull it off. Once removed, your idle should drop down to its base setting of around 650/750RPM.

Ok firstly, get a Conzult! It can make diagnosing these things easier. For example in this instance you could electrically disconnect the AAC from the IACV without physically disconnecting it, which’s saves time and potential damage to the harness (especially if it’s original!). Disconnecting the AAC and monitoring its position could help isolate a vacuum issue from an AAC fault. Have you ever removed the IACV to clean inside it as it’s possible that it’s gunked up causing the piston to stick. Have you had any hoses or vacuum lines off recently and do you have a boost leak tester?

Do you have a Conzult Gary?

Looks fantastic Lee, you must be itching to enjoy driving this lovely machine now! Other than a serviceable powerplant, there can’t be too much left on the to-do list?

That’s pretty cool! [emoji41]

Is that something you can do, just put it in a museum? Do they get a choice?