Joely P

If you do buy the Perspex strip, I would recommend placing the order at your local Nissan dealership and collecting it from there (checking its condition before taking it) as they’re renowned for breaking in transit. If you do get one, handle with care! Personally, I think the original spoiler looks better.

The MY99 cars also used this strip, you can still buy them new from Nissan.

The mounting holes of the spoiler require filling, prep and paint then you can install the black Perspex strip that was fitted to the spoilerless NA models. There are 2 options, one with a brake light and one without.

The flight deck of a Z is certainly a much better place to be in my opinion. The Supra isn’t “bad” but it just feels a bit cluttered to me.

I wouldn’t pay 20k for my Z.

Just stick it up for sale and stop poncing around ffs! [emoji38] Not but really, stick it up for sale and see what interest you get. No doubt this will be up there with one of the most expensive Z’s sold in many years and it could be a case of “could you sell it” whilst it takes a while to find the right buyer. This will give you time to stew at the reality of parting ways and could make you see the light!

Stop, Look and Listen!

Can a mod please add a “dislike” option? Alternatively, just delete this post please!

0.2mm as a total of the block and heads resurfacing combined.

Did that cost include the installation of a Nistune?

Doh!

I’m not posting in this thread. It’s my way of protesting.

If only you had thought of this 30 months ago, you’d have this car today and still be able to feed the kids for the next 30! :lol:

That’s a common disorder amongst the Zlife; categorised into a basic Sleep Deprevazion and full on Inzomnia diagnosis. It can be managed but it is healthy in small doses. When/if this problem no longer exists you end up with feelings similar to that Simon bloke and it becomes time to move on to something else. If you choose red, you’ll possibly be making a similar post yourself in a few weeks time!

That’s a bit unfair (in a positive way), there are a handful of people that have knowledge of these cars but none of them have the established reputation of PowerZed and carry too many skeletons! Edit: although I think I probably misinterpreted the intent of that quote!

My input to this thread would be to suggest that your detailing techniques will have far more effect on the results and longevity than the products used. Products do vary, some are more effective, some are easier to work with, some require more product, some last longer, some attract more dirt than others etc, there can be many variables to consider. However if your wash technique isn’t up to scratch, any hard work at the finishing stage can be quickly undone! I’m no pro and am virtually self taught so by no means am I giving an “expert” opinion but I have learnt a fair bit over the past few years. Ian has highlighted the essential first stage which is an effective prewash of the car before touching it. If the Final coating of sealant or wax (or both) isn’t up to scratch, this stage won’t be as effective and there is more chance that the wash stage will cause defects so both stages are equally important. Here are the wash technique stages that I follow on my Z. Note that none of this should be carried out in direct sunlight. It also assumes your paint is already well protected, if you’re doing this to a car that hasn’t been pampered for some time, a quick wash, full decontamination and polish should be done before a sealant or wax is applied. Further cleaning will then be much easier. Before touching the paintwork, a thorough rinse is essential, followed by either a snowfoam or traffic film remover left to dwell for a few minutes (I normally fill up my wash bucket during this time). If there are lots of bugs on the front, a specific chemical can help remove these as you don’t want to be applying any scrubbing pressure with the wash mitt when you get to that stage. Rinse or power wash off the prewash. If the car is particularly dirty, I go over the car with snowfoam again to assist the lubrication of the shampoo as I go over with the mitt. Start washing with your chosen poison using virtually no pressure, just the weight of your hand. Start at the top of the car all round and work your way down. Continuously inspect the mitt for any signs of dirt and then rinse it off. It’s important not to put your dirty mitt (or whatever you’re using) into the wash bucket so either have a separate rinse bucket to clean it or rinse the mitt off with a hose to clear any debris before going back in. Remember, don’t apply pressure! As you get lower down the car and especially at the back end, one sweep of the mitt could leave it very dirty so a rinse after each very light pass may be required until it’s cleaner, then you can give it a more detailed second pass. At the front, if your mitt picks up bugs, rinse them off as bits of bugs cause swirls! There may be some stubborn bug splats or fallout to remove and when the car is well protected, these will generally come off with a slightly increased pressure of the clean and lathered up mitt, but no harsh scrubbing! If it doesn’t come off, you’ll have to break out some fallout remover and reprotect that panel afterwards. Gently dry the car, with no pressure. I generally just hang a large soft drying towel from 2 corners and pull it around the car with the weight of the towel itself, this gets the bulk of the water off then fold into 4 and do a light pass around to scoop the rest. I personally then go around with a blower to get the water out of the panel gaps, mirror cases, rear lights, wheels and brakes. Don’t be tempted to drive the car at this stage to remove this water as it will just attract dirt, do this after the final drying step if you have to. At this stage, you will still have some fine water streaking from the wet drying towel and if you’re not going to polish the car, get a fresh, dry microfibre and go over the whole car with a spray wax product; 1 or 2 squirts per panel and it will leave a lovely finish whilst keeping your LSP nicely topped up. You can extend this step into the dry wheels and then treat your tyres as required. If you haven’t blow dried the panel gaps, take the car for a spin round the block to get the water out, then very gently dab wipe the drops with plenty of QD continuously folding the cloth to clean sections. Don’t do this if the roads are damp or wet! If you intend to polish the car, you needn’t bother doing the above final drying step with the spray wax as you’ll be removing it again anyway! It’s important before you polish, that you do a full decontamination of the paint so that all the minor fallout is completely removed as this could get picked up and dragged around the paint causing more defects. Sometimes this fallout can be difficult to spot, so don’t skip this step. You can use fallout removers to get the easily visible debris off but after that, give the car a thorough claying until the claybar is passing clean. You can also check the surface by placing your hand in a cheap sandwich bag and rubbing it along the paint, it should feel smooth and make no noise as you run it around. Use plenty of lube with the claybar, this stage is laborious and hard work! At this stage the car is now fully decontaminated and your probably shattered but this is the first point that you can safely cover up the car as it’s perfectly clean! You could then come back to it later. A hand polish will more likely be filling swirls as apposed to removing them and I’d highly recommend investing in a machine polisher for an efficient and long lasting defect removal. Once the paint is all swirl free, I would then seal the car (twice!) and then apply a layer or multiple layers of wax (you can go straight in with the wax but don’t bother sealing over that as it will not take to the wax). The shine of the paint comes from how swirl free it is, not the LSP that is applied. Some polished and glazes etc have heavy fillers in which can improve the appearance of a car with defects but ideally you want them all removed in the first place (then use the proper procedure to maintain the finish). Products can vary in the way they reflect light so can very slightly change the appearance or shade of the colour, this is also the case with LSPs containing tinters.

I don’t fall into either of those categories so let’s get those centre caps off eh!

I’ve been pondering over whether to keep these for a few years, but it’s time to let them go! Another limited run Auto-resto product, these ones never reached the full production stage so I’m not sure how many (if any) more of these exist. They’re plug and play items but you will need to utilise your existing lenses and install the LED boards in place of the reflectors. They’re wired into the power supply from the side and fog light bulbs so when the sidelight selection is made in the flight deck, the “crosshair” style LEDs illuminate and when you press the front fog switch (JDM), the entire board of LEDs illuminate. I would usually turn my sidelights on at all times and use these as DRL. £70 delivered mainland UK.

I’m with Brian on this one as you know Simon, I think the wheel Centre caps would look better and more neutral colour like grey or silver. You could paint your air vent surrounds red which would match your emblems but it doesn’t mean it’s right!

A bit of bling to dress up your throttle cable cover! It is machined from aluminium and you could paint it in whatever colour combo you fancy. Not my cup of tea so it’s time someone made use of it. They were made in limited numbers by Auto-resto many years ago. It’s never been fitted and has been in it’s sealed poly bag and only came out just now for these pictures. For info, it would be used to replace the red strip shown in the picture below which often suffer from fading or coating damage. £30 delivered mainland UK.

I recently replaced the speakers in my Z so my MK1 install is now up for sale. The component set is Inifinity Kappa 60.7cs and these are reviewed very well with a great sound. The woofers come installed in stock speaker brackets ready to wire up and the neodymium magnets clear the window in its travels. The tweeters are discreetly installed into a pair of stock door air vents using aluminium brackets and are ready to wire up, when installed the tweeters are difficult to see and don’t affect airflow through the vents too much. A full spec list and details can be found here: https://www.crutchfield.com/S-fGCBnrurceV/p_108607CS/Infinity-Kappa-60-7cs.html £130

I’m fairly close to you being in Essex and travel to PowerZed as and when I need to for piece of mind. It’s far from convenient but if you don’t want to risk the 10k in parts being wasted, then I suggest you hitch up a new plan and either drive or get it trailered to Jim for a proper job! Not only will he make sure all those lovely parts are utilised in all the right places, but you can also be confident that they will be reliably pieced together and afford you a happy zedder for many years to come! To me it sounds like it’s advantage cowboys and you’re on your second serve, don’t get it wrong this time! That was cheesy wasn’t it?

I’m fairly close to you being in Essex and travel to PowerZed as and when I need to for piece of mind. It’s far from convenient but if you don’t want to risk the 10k in parts being wasted, then I suggest you hitch up a new plan and either drive or get it trailered to Jim for a proper job! Not only will he make sure all those lovely parts are utilised in all the right places, but you can also be confident that they will be reliably pieced together and afford you a happy zedder for many years to come! To me it sounds like it’s advantage cowboys and you’re on your second serve, don’t get it wrong this time! That was cheesy wasn’t it?

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