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Joely P

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    United Kingdom

Everything posted by Joely P

  1. Sure is. Looking mighty fine on the Advan Siennas [emoji41]
  2. Happy Birthday [emoji106]
  3. Do they do a 20-25mm offset for the 8.5 up front? And a 35mm for the 9.5 rears?
  4. It sure is Gary. I paid a graphic designer/artist to do that for me (in fact it’s been my avatar on here for a while now).
  5. I would recommend following the 6p’s as a general health check that you can carry out yourself. Many of the checks will be made much simpler if you, or a local member that can help you, has the conZult diagnostic software. http://twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/technical/view/922678/The-6-Ps-Proper-Preparation-Prevents-Piss-Poor-Performancegt.html
  6. I guess it’s clear why Simply Japanese is such a successful event!
  7. I’m with DJ on this, if Nissan were to be still manufacturing the VG30DETT today, even if it hadn’t changed in its design and tolerances, they would most certainly be using fully synthetic oil. The only time I would agree with Jeff about not having the piece of mind from FS oil would be if the owner just poodles about in the car as a daily driver, rarely giving it any beans, doesn’t live in a hot climate and is on a budget.
  8. I’ll mirror Pete’s covert recommendation that he doesn’t have time for! It’s quite thin and much better than WD40 at penetrating those awkward customers.
  9. Can’t you just email the subscribed members?
  10. Oh, I’m no longer a southern softy!
  11. It’ll certainly be £20 well spent Scott. [emoji106] For me, if it wasn’t for this club, I would most definitely not still have a 300zx!
  12. I would recommend any Dinitrol or Bilt Hamber products. I personally used a Dinitrol kit for an XL car and it’s done a great job. The kit comes with the underbody protection, chassis wax, rust converter, and a long wand. It also comes with 10mm plugs in case you need to drill any holes for access but no drilling is required to access all the chassis cavities on the Z32.
  13. Welcome to the club Ash [emoji41]
  14. Part numbers are: 2143054P00 or 2143037P00 or 2143030P00 or 2143074N02 (which is used on a few other Nissans). Also give Mike Feeney a call and your local Nissan dealership.
  15. https://www.allcarpartsfast.co.uk/nissan/nissan-2143054p00-cap-assy-pressu/
  16. Are you talking about the lights in your rear clusters? Can’t you get Hella units to fit in those?
  17. Are we genuinely taking away from this thread that a serviceable coolant system with no leaks but with an aftermarket radiator will need topping up regularly just because? :confused1:
  18. Doh, I should’ve refreshed!
  19. All the magic happens in the cap
  20. Because he’d have to cut the end of the OEM studs with a 10mm spacer as the studs would protrude too far into the wheel mating face. Here’s a random google pic to illustrate, they have also kindly marked the pic showing the protrusion. He would also have to faff about finding nuts that were slimmer than 10mm (which would be questionable on the amount of threads to grip). He’s on about using hub-centric spacers that don’t bolt on so there is no compromise on safety, it just requires longer studs and in this case is most certainly the way to go. The Eibach kit that Pete has linked above is what you want Richard, great quality those (just check it comes with 10 studs and not 8 as pictured!).
  21. Keep the thread updated with the next instalments [emoji106]
  22. I have to top mine up when it spits it all over the sandy asphalt of a Mediterranean road, doh!
  23. I’d say, as a technicality, that they are in fact drilled to a 300zx fitment of 5x114.3 and they would argue that the centre bore is machined (not drilled). This is very common with all aftermarket wheels unless they were specifically designed for that model. Most companies will supply them with spigot rings to fill the gap which then makes them specific to that car, I wouldn’t worry about it or bother to argue it personally. Your options with the spacers would be to use either slimline nuts on the studs (which will then need to be cut below flush in the spacer) and then bolt the wheel on; or you can get 10mm hubcentric spacer that aren’t bolt on, you would then just install longer studs on the hubs to facilitate the extra length.
  24. They sure were, I was quite fond of those wheels but just wanted that extra inch (don’t we all?)! They now reside in Portugal on a TK3 euro spec and I have to say, they look much better than they did on my red one! [emoji41]

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