Joely P

It’s not the waterless wash, it’s the way he did it... Oh no, I’m turning into a detailing woman?

Firstly, undo the screw underneath to release the glass and the backing plate, it hooks on at the top and the screw keeps it pulled down over the hooks. With this out of the way you will see the screws that hold on the rear facing piece, remove those (some are accessed through the mechanism so make sure you get them all). Once they’re all out, as Andy says, the 2 halves are just clipped together at the inside edge and if you gently open them up slightly at the outside edge, you can then unclip them on the inside. Protect the paint on the base as you do this. With the rear facing piece out of the way, you’ll see an extra couple of screws through the mechanism that secures the forward facing piece to it. Undo these and it’ll slip out nicely, again, watch the paint on the base. You can actually refit the glass back into the mechanism without the shells installed too if you need to manoeuvre the car afterwards.

Are you painting the whole car or just the mirror shells? If you’re not painting the mirror bases, you don’t need to remove the whole assembly.

I seem to recall I had to de-pin the connector aswell in order to remove it for my repaint. Why do you want to remove the door mirror assembly for, Jay?

Either you have one of them crazy paddle clutches that are like a toggle switch, or you have replaced the progressive throttle assembly for a toggle switch, or both? :lol: If not, did you try using the throttle and clutch pedals a little more gently? [emoji13]

Welcome to the club Kevin. It sounds like you have some very nice plans for the car and the SSR SP3 will make a fine addition! Look forward to seeing the pics and following the updates.

Welcome to the club dude. [emoji41] We all drive on the wrong side of the road over here... no wait, we drive on the right side of the road, right?

Oh no Richard, you didn’t use the Glisten as a waterless wash now did you? That’s strictly an LSP after washing! :scared:

If you want to celebrate the start of the build, yes. Generally the celebrations would be from the launch date!

Edit.

Much better, it really does lift the feel inside the cabin doesn’t it? If you do venture up to Kraftwork, let me know and I’ll pop up. [emoji106]

Nice work Simon. You should’ve convinced Nathan to take some pics of yours!

I removed all of my tint when I had my car painted (I swapped all the glass out for blue tint) and it feels so much nicer, fresher and a lot more airy inside.

Happy Birthday Richard [emoji106]

Haha, fortunately not thanks to the “active track” mode!

I took mine out for its first blast of the year. After refitting my recircs equipped with the BDE GHK I have substituted the honk for an initial blast of flutter, slowly phasing into a hissing or recircs! I think the springs in the BDE kit are a little too strong for modest boost but at least it sounds better and is keeping pressure in the right places! As it was such a lovely day, it would’ve been rude not to throw the drone in the car and have a little play? This is my first use in anger with the car and is subject to much improvement as I get to learn the features and have more time to play. I threw this little vid together just to see how the footage works together but it’s not a particularly exciting video, just a pre-production practice session that I thought I’d share with you guys!

How many turns on the nut is enough turns on the nut?

Dammit, I sold it! How does it sound Howard?

Happy Birthday Steve [emoji106]

The only grey area is the bit that says “or an example of a model that went into production BEFORE 1988”, as the Z32 went into production IN 1988. I doubt they would turn you away on those grounds and it doesn’t really make sense why they would specify before 1988 and not 1989, (inline with the 30 year rule) it seems like they copied and pasted the entry requirements from last year but missed amending that date?

Replacing the studs isn’t too difficult, the hub doesn’t have to come off.

There’s nothing wrong with using longer studs Richard [emoji106] Have you found a supplier that can give you 5mm spacers with the hub centric lip? I would imagine they would be too thing to incorporate the lip, whilst accepting the OEM lip and maintaining the centre bore size (if that makes sense!).

Step aside Impul, Azev are taking over here! That looks awesome Graham, a very well rounded package. [emoji41]

One of the threads I read on a forum about molyslip had a mirroring sentiment from our very own Oilman, which is kind of odd, considering they sell the stuff lol!

1: Funkysi (Simon Parsons) 13th and 14th 2: nickz32 (Nick Johnson) 13th and 14th 3: Joely P (Joel Pickering) 13th and 14th