TheRealNips

The codes only show when certain monitored voltages are out of the pre-determined range. If the MAF or another component is failing but still within that allowed range it won't flag an error. Annoying! I'm currently suffering an over fueling issue with one of my zeds and have slowly been replacing bits (either bought, borrowed or swapped off my other zed) to narrow down the problem. Can you check all the pipe work and make sure no air is sucking in anywhere it's not supposed too? Try taking the plugs out and check them? Check the injectors to hear them clicking or not (there is a walkthrough on how to do that somewhere on the web), basically check all the air and fuel systems for leaks/wrong mix/etc. failing all that, jimmer and jeffTT (although retired) are a wealth of knowledge!

Bought some new rubber today ready for sunday only to find out I bought the wrong tyres! I bought 225 45 18R instead of 225 40 18R! They would fill the arches and rub so they will have to be returned and others ordered, wont happen for sunday though. oooooops ?

Black smoke is running rich. The car isnt getting the right fuel/air mixture. This could be a few things, but MAF springs to mind first. These often die or stop working properly. Have you tried running the engine codes? That should tell you any problems and create a list to start from. The codes can be grabbed with this walk through: http://twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/technical/view/1105629/The-Ultimate-Guide-to-ECU-Diagnostics.html

Depends on the total worth of the package. The import tax is a % based on essential/non-essential car parts. E.g An item needed to make the car work is a different rate to some trim or after market pedals. I think it is about 4.5%, but you also pay VAT% on top of that at 20%, so a £1000 order from the US is now £1254. Then most parcel companies charge a "handling fee", basically they either pay the import duty and chase you for it, thus creating paperwork and charge you for the priviledge or they put you in touch with HMRC, then release your parcel when its been paid and then charge you for the priviledge. If Jai bought new pistons and rods from the US at £1450 + £50 shipping, He would get charged about 4.5% on the worth and cost of shipping (£1568) , then they add 20% on to that, (£1882) then a fee for sorting it all out (£1932) and before he knows it, he has paid out an extra £432 just to get the piston and rods into the country. So depending on what he bought, £316 could be correct, however it is always worth checking when the invoice comes through. We have all this to look forward to when our transition period ends on the 31st Dec 2020 as well! Buying car parts from Germany on ebay will become a minefield... well buying anything from anywhere will be a minefield....

Excellent, thanks for the help guys. Completely re-buliding my rear end (!) at the moment and replacing everything that is normally difficult to get to because of the rear sub-frame

Do they have to be steel or can they be copper like the brake lines?

I need to replace the fuel (and brake) lines that run front to back. The brake lines, my mechanic and I are happy with. The fuel lines look to be bigger, does anyone know the diameter? We think its 8mm, but need it confirming. Also what material should they be? Copper, like the brake lines? Steel which corrodes? Stainless? Can I buy preformed sections that go up and over the rear subframe? I have spent the last three days on the internet and seem to only find info about braided stainless line for the engine bay. Thanks

I can collect the arms on Monday as im out and about collecting some other bits too. Please let me know

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Im interested in the rear lower arms if they are still available?

Im guessing they were not cheap....?

All of our buses at work have run out of MOT, they are currently on the Covid extension. It was difficult going to the police station the other day to report an RTC with an out of date MOT certificate! ?

We are planning a meetup and drive on Sunday 26th July 2020. I know this is Simply Japanese day, but as tickets are limited to 500 and everything in the grounds is closed, I sadly decided to give it a miss this year. Instead Naz and I have planned a trip out around the East Sussex area ending with a picnic in Crawley! We are going to meet about 10am on Eastbourne seafront for a meet and greet (at 2m distance of course!), then set off on a little route I have planned on some nice roads to Tilgate Park in Crawley where we will have a picnic lunch. People can then drive home at their own leisure. Parking on Eastbourne Seafront can be a pain, but 10am on a sunday should be ok if we meet more towards the western end past Western Gardens and the Wish Tower. Make sure you bring your own lunch and drinks to avoid sharing/contamination!

I see all the pros of having the new V8, all the fuel savings, the ease of maintance, more power etc.... but there is something epic to the 350. The sound, the rumble, the vibrations. Having been in a GT40 a few times when I was younger, I have this memory that I want to hold on to and keep. Also they look cooler when compared with the Coyote V8: There is a kit of dummy webber headers you can put on the Coyote, but would it look as awesome?

In no order: 1) 300zx (mine!) Red, Twin Turbo 2) Nissan R34 in bayside blue 3) Toyota Celica GT4 in Castrol rally colours 4) Toyota Supra MkIV OEM in red 5) Nissan 240Z in a nice metallic deep blue. 6) Mazda RX7 in yellow Others not japanese: 1) Lamborghini Murcielargo Lp-670 in sunburnt Orange ? 2) Dodge Viper SRT 10 Coupe in Blue with white stripes But the one at the top of my list, my "affordable dream car" is a tornado Ford GT40 kitcar: https://www.tornadosportscars.com/MainPage.html I am currently saving up for the kit and will build it myself over several years. I am hoping 5 more years and I can start. It will have to be in the gulf racing colours, but I am torn on whether I go for the other small block ford v8 or pay a bit more and have the new v8 from the mustang put in it for 700+BHP....

Simply Japanese is going ahead apparently, but limited to 500 tickets and none of the museum bits are open. I'm missing car shows and drives. Maybe we need to plan so etching for just us?

Is there a paid version, I cant seem to find anything but the free version. I was looking at buying this if anyone has used it before? https://www.nisscan.com/NDSI/index.php

What software are you using?

When I swapped my clocks over, i did something similar to this: I took it apart and then spun the small white cog in the right direction until it matched the mileage on the old clocks. I didnt have a motor, so did it by hand. I pulled out the metal rod with the two white cogs on out and then the number wheels will spin freely, However make sure that all the teeth aline when putting it back together. The teeth between the number wheels have different sized grooves so that when the 1 wheel resets to zero, the 10 wheel turns to one. That has a different groove so that when the 10 resets to zero, the 100 wheel turns to one without affecting the 10 or the 1 wheels and so on with the 1000/10,000/100,000 wheels. There are little white lever arms that turn the wheels at the right time. Spins the wheels until you get close to your mileage ( I was within a couple of miles) line all the wheels up, line all the teeth up and then use pliers to squeeze the metal rod in place, then spin the small white cog until its gets to your mileage and also to test that all the teeth are working and that in a 1000 miles it doesn't jam as you didnt line up one cog. It sounds easy, but it took me most of an evening to get right. The video below seems much better, I havent tried it though.

Ash and I are in the middle of our two week holiday at the moment. Was meant to spend a week in the Isle of Wight and a week camping in the South West. We are doing little day trips here and there, Its been good so far apart from the weather. 12 weeks of lockdown sun for everyone to enjoy/boast about, then me (keyworker) gets two weeks off and its pisses it down.... Im not bitter..... honest....?

I will find out on tuesday as ill be there first hand to watch/hinder ?

Yes, that's why I decided I didn't have the tools to do it safely. I have known the guy for years and he did his apprenticeship at nissan in the 90s. He does give me a good rate, so it is worth it to get him to do the difficult bits I can't do

As I was cramped under the car held up by two axle stands on the road at the top of my drive, I decided that my mechanic will suffer the stress and pain. My wallet will suffer the stress instead. I could have done the rear suspension if I could get that nut un-done, but as the subframe needs doing, there is no point fitting the suspension and then having to un-do it all for the subframe to come out. I don't have any ramps or lifts or things to hold heavy items, so I think this is the safest way. He said he will charge me £150 to take the subframe out, fit the new bushes and fit the suspension (I have already taken the rear interior apart). Im also allowed to de-rust and protect the car while he is working on the bushes which is a plus. I was thinking of getting one of these when I can afford it: https://www.screwfix.com/p/milwaukee-m18-fid2-502x-fuel-18v-5-0ah-li-ion-redlithium-brushless-cordless-impact-driver/713fj

I broke the locking mechanism in my big rachet. I snapped the end off of my bar, used a whole can (small) of WD40, bent a 2m long metal tube (my bar replacement), taught my next door neighbours a whole host of swear words (English and Chinese) and then admitted defeat...

I don't know anyone with one, I think that will have to be my next tool purchase.