securicar

not really as all the actuator motor does is pull and push on the rod that goes from the interior lock/unlock button on handle to the lock mechanism. If its tight or the motors starting to seize up it might not be travelling far enough to fully operate Paul.

It will NOT be anything to do with alarm pulse but could be the rod of the drivers door motor needing adjusted so it pulls the bar enough to trigger the cars own locking unit paul.

pull rubber out at either end, squirt a bit of wd40 in then a pull through cord will easily go through. normally takes me less than 5 mins to get wires from door into car Paul.

The concept 650 has a non volatile memory so if the battery is disconnected while alarm is disarmed with fob then it will still be in that state when battery is reconnected and will not need to be recoded. Its onboard relays might be sticking due to the cold weather. the 650 cuts the main ignition feed and the starter feed Paul.

JL AUDIO components GENESIS PROFILE2 amp Quite expensive but VERY worth it

Thing to remember is YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR

The problem is , the Z is really a specialist install that time has to be taken over. There is no reason why thatwith a bit of planning that an alarm shouldnt look like original equipment. PM me what kind of money your looking to spend mate and ill try and tell you your best choice TOAD or SIGMA i would recommend you can pretty much guarantee that SIGMA would be pro fitted as you need a special programmer to set them up and there very small size really suits the Z Paul.

Ahhh!!!, not being funny mate but any company that would be fitting cheap chinese junk like that probably doesnt know there arse from there elbows when it comes to installing correctly, its probably scotch locks and sellotape (similar to a halfrauds job!!) Paul.

Will see what i can do, what alarm did they fit? Paul.

What area you in mate

Its a common mistake to make on the Z, its the only car ive ever worked on that the door circuit has to be wired up in this way. Tell them there is a relay in passenger rear quarter that has to be used for door trigger Paul.

Its a difficult one to diagnose without seeing it but sometimes existing problems with bad connections and dry joints are exagerated when work is done on car, i once fitted an alarm to a 1983 porsche which afterwards had no end of electrical problems, turns out the original car harness was rotten, so wait till the garage has had a look at it before losing your temper as chances are they will be a lot more helpfull especially if it turns out to be nothing to do with install. I know a few good engineers in London if you end up needing it looked at independantly Paul.

Sounds like they have tapped into the interior light circuit and not went to the check relay in passenger side rear quarter like you are supposed to do on the Z to get door trigger Paul.

PM me your email address mate Paul.

how can i copy a blank jobsheet into my computer then be able to add text to it to fill it in, or alter the original text of the job sheet Paul.

Im going to be working north lancs for the next 3 weeks so could give a hand if you need it, im an auto spark by trade Paul.

Checked that aswell, when i changed discs the pads were already new so didnt really have to move pistons back more than 1mm to get pads back in when swapped discs which is making me all the more baffled:confused: Paul.

mine done this a few times, especially if it had stood a while. Turns out it was a bad connection on the coolant temp sensor so engine was over fuelling at idle:) Which was a dam sight easier to sort out than my f*£$%g brakes:rant: Paul.

is there a relay that controls the brakes? and if yes were the f$%K is it Paul.

I get a click to take it out of park when i put my foot on brake but this click is much louder and happens every time i press pedal even in drive. Have had the car 9 years so prob would have noticed it by now if it had always been there. Pedal is solid aswell like when the engine isnt running and the servos not on:headvswal

Also when i press brake there is a loud clicking coming from the centre console area, like a relay:confused:

Didnt unplug anything, just removed pads, unbolted caliper and carefully moved out of way, removed disc, replaced with new, replaced caliper and pads theres no fluid leaks, pedal is hard as if it would be if engine wasnt running Paul.

Have just had car in bits to change front discs and sort out handbrake adjustment, now brake pedal is really hard with not much stopping power and ANTI LOCK light is constantly on!!! Paul.

Blue relay on the back off fusebox needs replaceing Paul

I agree