Skip to content
View in the app

A better way to browse. Learn more.

300ZX Owners Club

A full-screen app on your home screen with push notifications, badges and more.

To install this app on iOS and iPadOS
  1. Tap the Share icon in Safari
  2. Scroll the menu and tap Add to Home Screen.
  3. Tap Add in the top-right corner.
To install this app on Android
  1. Tap the 3-dot menu (⋮) in the top-right corner of the browser.
  2. Tap Add to Home screen or Install app.
  3. Confirm by tapping Install.

redwine300

Registered Member
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Country

    United Kingdom

Everything posted by redwine300

  1. May have something to do with the bulb check relay. Unfortunately, I believe it is located behind the fuse box in the drivers side footwell! Not 100% mind, but worth a check.
  2. Not to sure I understand where those photo's refer too. Are they front left and front right? are they the jacking points? Firstly, as ruishy1 said, you need to clean back so as to see the full extent of the rust. On past experience you may well find more corrosion as you delve deeper I'm afraid. The degree of repair will depend on you future aims for the car. Are you intending to patch up just to get by? or are you thinking long term?
  3. As I am still on a bit of a high, (thought I would make the most of it, lol) I have posted a before and after photo of my recent exploits. After all, It would have been a bit of a crime if I had not put a bit of elbow grease in having taken so much stuff off. Still a lot to do I admit, but a start I suppose.
  4. Cheers znut. Such a relief to be back behind the wheel, it's only been about 3 to 4 weeks but felt like a life time. MOT in a couple of weeks as well. here we go again! lol
  5. I had the same problem with mine, I had to bend the mounting points upwards by about 20 degrees so as to miss the bracket and yet still fit the clamp. A right pain in the a*se.
  6. OK, a bit of an update. Double checked and treble checked everything, and after leaving her running for ages I took her for a run. After about 25 mile round trip and having thrashed her a bit, (only between 4000rpm and 6000rpm I hasten to add) I pulled up on my drive to check a few things. Temperature.. 80 degrees Oil pressure.. 15psi (@750rpm) Vacuum.. -13psi (@750rpm) Water leaks.. none. And best of all, my noisy lifter had gone! she sounded like a f**king sewing machine Well happy to say the least. The highs and lows of zeds eh. (bi-polar or what!!)
  7. Thank you my friend. :thumbup1:
  8. Cheers Groover. :thumbup1:
  9. Cheers Gary,:thumbup1: Going to celebrate with a drive to a country pub in the Zed. :pint: Worked strait through yesterday on her re fitting the plenum etc' so should be a good test. :sweatdrop: Fingers crossed there's no leaks of any sort.
  10. I know what you mean mate. It is so difficult to judge when tightening by hand. I have know finished re fitting my plenum along with everything that goes with it. One of the eight bots retaining the plenum felt decidedly soft, so I am going to stay well clear of tightening it any further. On a more positive note. Started her up tonight and she ran like a dream, no apparent leaks so far. Hopefully if the weather holds, I will give he a good run out tomorrow. Relieved to say the least.
  11. I did thanks mate. I am going to tighten them to the lower of the two settings working from the centre out in a sort of clockwise pattern.
  12. Will do znut. Dreading it really as I have had one sinking moment, don't fancy another. Reckons I will go with the lowest setting, that way after a few miles I can always re do them I guess.
  13. QUOTE=Medallion Man;1737384]should be in the SFM... do you have link? Cheers Medallion Man. :thumbup1: I don't know why I did not think of that. :blushing:
  14. Having been to heavy handed in the past, hence this post. I am a little nervous about tightening down the plenum. Can anyone tell me the correct torque settings please? Also, I am guessing there will be a specific sequence. Thanks in advance guy's.
  15. Welcome to the club mate. You can't go go wrong here. What ever problems you come across, there will always be a member that is more than willing to help. Hopefully when you get the hang of things, you will be able to post pictures of your progress.
  16. Try Mike Feeney in the traders section. http://www.mjpauto.com I bought both sides, front to back a little while back. May still be able to get them. If you do go ahead, I ran a diary on a welding forum from start to finish that will be of help. http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=15465 Good luck.
  17. Great to hear you have a happy zed mate. Glad I could have been of some help mate! Don't forget the rep' lol Dave.
  18. Stick with mate! Yes it will be hard, but well worth it in the long run. Explain to everyone close to you about the mood swings, the support of those close will make it that little bit easier. I have been off the fags for over 20 years now, best thing I have ever done short of meeting my wife and having a daughter. Good luck, you won't regret it. It took me 3 attempts by the way, but got there in the end.
  19. Arrived today as promised. Brilliant! The build begins. Thanks Eggs
  20. Cheers guy's :thumbup1: It seems like it's one expence after another! :lol:
  21. Hi Eggs, Still struggling to get the passenger side pipe, the one I have fitted to the drivers side has seen better days. As for the rear pipes, the passenger side shows the early stages of splitting but dare not disturb it without a replacement. pm me costs etc' mate.
  22. This may have some relevance. Copied from an old post by the way. FIXED! ===== A certain Mr. J. Turner at a certain Z specialist in the Midlands area identified two issues that were causing the electrical problems - one of which was a faulty diode tucked away in the engine loom somewhere [the existence of which you wouldn't know without looking at a wiring diagram], and the other was a faulty [as in partly broken possibly due to a pothole] fuse in the engine bay. Jeff's explained it to me twice and the details still escape me, but after looking at a wiring diagram it appears that a current was finding its way onto both sides of this particular buzzing relay causing the switch to flick back and forth and therefore buzz. I think the circuit was to do with the rear lights, but perhaps Jeff might want to post a bit more detail [i.e. tell me third time!]. So a big thankyou to Jeff for quickly getting to the bottom of this and fixing it. Apparently the faulty diode could have been contributing slightly to my parasitic drain, and so I'm currently measuring that on a daily basis (without using the car) to see if the car can list a bit longer without dying. I've just started a new thread measuring the volts each day.

Important Information

Terms of Use

Account

Navigation

Search

Search

Configure browser push notifications

Chrome (Android)
  1. Tap the lock icon next to the address bar.
  2. Tap Permissions → Notifications.
  3. Adjust your preference.
Chrome (Desktop)
  1. Click the padlock icon in the address bar.
  2. Select Site settings.
  3. Find Notifications and adjust your preference.