redwine300

Page 85 I think mate. Also see page 82. (symtom chart) http://stadzport.com/FSM/HA_Heater_Air_Conditioner.pdf

I always understood it to be that Conzult displayed the timing it was looking for and that you then had to confirm this at the pulley by way of using a strobe. That way you would use the cas to set the strobe/pulley readings to match the Conzult. I think that connecting/disconnecting the neutral determines the figure conzult will be looking for (ie 15/25 deg's) and then the strobe is used to match the pulley reading.

Page 85 http://stadzport.com/FSM/HA_Heater_Air_Conditioner.pdf Hope that helps.

I guess pop rivets would work. It's just they are awkward to remove and replace easily, and from experience, there will be a lot of trial fits before your are ready to weld. Also, the holes left behind will be a lot smaller from the self tapping screws and therefore easier to fill. I will check out my joggler in the morning and see if it can access the existing panel. If it is any good to you, I can always post it to you on loan mate. (no rush to get it back)

I know what you mean about the overlapped joint mate. I guess it comes down to personal preference really. Which ever you decide, just be sure that the panel is sitting in the best position and as natural and free of tension as possible. If going with the overlapped joint, maybe you could use small self tapping screws to pull the joint together. That way you can see how it will all line up prior to tackling the plug welds. Yes it will leave some small holes to deal with, but as you have said, your welding skills have come on in leaps and bounds and will be easily filled. Looking forward to the next instalment.

Great work so far mate, very impressive. As for which stile of weld for the rear outer sill, I would personally opt for a butted seam weld. I would steer away from joggling the original edge as there is a possibility of distorting the line of the car. I think that if you have a good fitting repair sill and nice and clean metal, so long as you take it one tack at a time you will not blow through. Also, I would go with a slight gap, say 0,5mm (max) this will help with penetration and leave room for some movement. I would also look at tidying up the original shape of the outer profile that you have cut out, that way you will find it easier to match the new panel.

Happy Birthday.

Happy birthday Groover.

Some nice fabrication going on there mate, especially photo 2. As for photo 1, have you compared it to the opposite side? I really do not want to rain on your parade but the curve does appear a bit abrupt. I am just a bit worried for you because this will finally determine the outer shape of your rear sill. I know you are planning to cover this with your skirts, but I am a little concerned that they will not sit well. Please do not take this the wrong way, It's just that I know how important this car is to you and how the car will look when finished. No offence meant mate.

I have recently changed both of mine, and the one thing I can not stress enough is, soak them with plus gas freeing oil (or similar) every night for a week so as to break the fit of the corrosion. I used a length of copper brake pipe to drip some right at the base of the thread each night. The last thing you want is to do is round off the hexagon. (or splay out the end of the socket) Also, is it the left hand side as in passenger side? or as you look from the front? The reason I ask is, if it is the passenger side you will most probably need to disconnect the air conditioning pipe. (19mm a/f I think) Hope that helps.

Welcome to the forum mate! Looking forward to pictures.

Hi Russ, I found these products to be superb. http://www.bilthamber.com/ Especially the cavity wax. I would not use anything else.

Impressive work so far mate. (Brings back memories.) One thing I did find about weld through primer was, that despite the fact that it is designed to a degree to cope with welding, I still found that it effected the weld itself. I found that I had much better results by scraping away the paint at the points of weld so as to have a good clean weld area. Hopefully you have not yet cut away any of your arch as yet as this will be your point of reference when welding in your outer rear sill return. I was fortunate in this respect as I had a a replacement outer sill, but if you are planning to make your own you will need to have some key points to attach too. If you are planning on making your own, I would be more than happy to shape it for you against my car so as to get the profile and the lip that forms the edge of the sill. I would leave the arch and the sill areas long for finishing by your self once you are happy with the fit etc' Just an option.

How are you checking your timimg? Also, is it a manual or auto?

I'm with you Mondo. It was Pinking in my day also. lol Fundamentally the same thing though I think.

That looks correct. It's just a matter of measuring the gap with a digital vernier so as to make sure it is at the correct figure.

I think the gap between the parts marked B and C should be 3 mm +/- 0,1mm Hopefully Jeff will be along soon to confirm.

I don't know why, but I always thought that the filler cap was supposed to vent the pressure. Each time I go to fill mine she hisses like a cornered cat when I release the cap! Not sure if thats correct or not to be honest.

So, after the garage fitted the new near side pipe,were the brakes ok? or did this leave you with the current problem? Just trying to understand the history as they may have caused the problem having had to break into the system.

Many happy returns Russ.

Have you undone the end attached to the hub? May become easier to remove the eccentric bolt with the arm in the free position. If memory serves me right, the flange of the bolt comes very close to the flared edge of the fixing point.

Nice one Yowser, I did not realise that the car had to be pre 95 to avoid the cat test. Good info.

Sounds like you are having one of your many low points in the quest to achieve a rust free zed. It's just a matter of stepping back and thinking about what went wrong. So long as you do not get too carried away with the grinder, all is retrievable. As for adding new metal to old there are a few things that I found made a big difference. Firstly, you have to be 100% certain that you cut back to pure rust free metal, any hint of corrosion will cause you to blow through. Also, try cleaning the metal where you aim to cut with paint stripper so as to avoid thinning the metal which can happen easily when grinding the metal clean. Once you are sure you have reached good metal, clean the surrounding edge thoroughly and then buff with course emery so as to open up the surface of the metal. The aim is to make the 2 pieces of metal look virtually identical. I would then look at setting your welder to the lowest power setting available, 15 amps is ideal but a good thin metal weld is still possible with slightly More amps. I would try welding in a small test piece first to see how you get on before welding in the repair panel. Use a series of single tacks about an inch appart to start with. Worth trying so as to see what a diffence it makes.

http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=15465 If you page down near to the bottom of this page, you will be able to make out how the floor meets the sills in the picture marked " Scary " I know it is the drivers side, but should give you a good idea. Hope it helps.

I have often considered buying ConZult also. What exactly does it comprise of and how much would I expect to pay? Where would be the best place to purchase from? Dave.