redwine300

I know when I bought Data Scan 1, I had to make sure that my old IBM laptop had a 9 pin serial port. They may do different cable connections now though. http://home.exetel.com.au/nds/ Hope this link helps. Also, here is their e mail.. nissandatascan@yahoo.com

Cheers Yowser, The ECU I have in front of me just has a blank space where yours has the 10 digit number I'm afraid. I will check the one in the car tomorrow, but I am 95% certain it is the same.

Hi Smithy, no numbers/letters with the letter P I'm afraid. The only other number on the label is a large no' 36 Noz, as you say, this ECU is 94 on wards, would that be OK for a 1992?

Cheers Noz, I can't seem to match any of the above with the one's of mine below. Can you make sense of them please? A18-A33 MA2 2605 A18-A33-MA2 2212

Cheers guys!! Dumb question I know, where should I be looking? Will I need to take the cover off?

Not sure Baz, where should I be looking?

When I first got my uk 300 manual turbo, (1992) it came with a second ecu. Is there an easy way for me to check that the one that is fitted is indeed the right one for the car? Also, can I actually check which one of the two is the original one?

Any joy yet?

Looking forward to seeing your progress, keep it coming.

If memory serves me right, I think they are m10 fine. I think I recall using a 14mm af impact socket to get the old one's off.

Mmmmm, That's my thought also. My rpm seems tied to the engine temperature! It only returns to an acceptable rpm of say 750rpm when the engine is above 75 degrees!! The gauges are almost in sync with one another.

How long from a cold start would you expect your zed to take to reach a normal idle of say 750/800rpm???? Also, would you expect this to happen before she's up to full temp??

I have just changed both of mine, went a lot better than I thought. Firstly, I would HIGHLY recommend soaking them over night for a few days with plus gas. I did this by using a length of old brake pipe so as to drip plenty of plus gas around the thread every night. Secondly, I bought 2 ringed type universal 22mm crows feet. One I left whole, (this is the one I used to get the old ones out after cutting the wires off) The second one I cut a small slot through so as to feed the wires of the new ones through. Getting at the drivers side was not to bad, just f**king fiddly. The passengers side was a bit more awkward, I had to take the battery off along with the air conditioning pipework so as to allow access for the socket. I also had to move some of the main harness out of the way. I also would recommend 1/2" drive minimum, also, you will need a minimum length of 12" extension bar along with a 15" power bar. I would not risk a ratchet as it may be a bit flimsy. You are only likely to get one shot at this so using the right kit is imperative! One other thing I found, although the sensors are identical, you may find that the plastic clips that are part way up the harness are at different positions so as to secure the cable. You will need to compare the new with the old so as to determine the left and the right.

Have you set the new tps to the correct voltage when at rest? This can also be a cause for high tick over if set incorrectly. I think you need to be at .42 volts.

Cheers Noz, Starting to understand it a little. My first thoughts are, after a short while idling. if I apply throttle suddenly, she looks as though see runs lean for a short time. Would this assessment be correct? Or am I worrying over nothing? my first thoughts are that I am getting air drawn in somewhere as there is a definite short hiss at the time of acceleration.

Now that I think I may have sorted my idle system out, I thought I would play around with Data Scan again. Thought I would start with looking at how she was running with regards to fuelling. I have attached a video showing the car at operating temperature in the dashboard display showing various values, then I have switched to the fuel map display. As I do not understand it myself, would you guys have a look and, firstly see if everything looks right, and secondly, would someone explain exactly what I am looking at please? [video=youtube_share;K7vrEFwpTsI]

This might be of some help mate. http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?128022-power-window-repair-(inside-out-feature)&highlight=window+module+repair

This might help mate. http://z32.wikispaces.com/Factory+Service+Manual Oooop My mistake. Less speed more hast, sorry. Any good? http://www.xenonz31.com/reference.html

A bit of an update guys, Part of my Eureka post was incorrect, I will try and explain. I have since discovered that a 14v supply is constantly applied to the heater element of the air control valve, so as to hold the disk valve in the closed position. This takes around 5 minutes and does not relate to the engine temperature needing to be at at full temp. I have tested the voltage to the control valve both at cold start and at full temp and on both occasions it is around 14v By the way, I could only find voltage at the connector with the engine running. I think my initial statement as to the tick over settling only when the engine was up to full temperature was due to my connector not making a good contact, and so therefore the only heat available to effect the bi metal spring was from the engine. Hence the rpm taking so long to return to 750rpm Now that I have cleaned the connector the bi metal strip is now heated via the 14 volts. Sorry for any confusion I may have caused.

Me too!

Cheer Steams, I can only hope that it is of some help to others who may have a similar issue.

EUREKA!!! Sussed it.. Overjoyed to say the least. After hours of reading the links, (big thanks Medallion Man, I owe you some rep mate!) and spending some time stripping and cleaning both units, I finally figured out how and what the Air Control Valve is all about. Basically, it's purpose in life is to add a small amount of air during the cold start up process. Depending on the ambient temperature, the unit controls a rotary disc valve so as to control the amount of air required to raise the rpm. So, depending on the outside temperature at the time, the disc valve is open either only slightly or significantly. The mechanism involved is fundamentally a bi metal spring that's heated at start start up so as to open the disc valve the required amount. Thus increasing the rpm accordingly. Once the engine has reached operating temperature, the voltage to the bi metal heater element is then gradually switched off and the disc valve is fully closed. This is when I had my second eureka moment! Now I know that the above valve was operating correctly,(by the way, I had to adjust the internal disc valve by way of a cam so as to get the correct opening.) and I was now confident the valve was now closed, I then turned my attention to the second AAC valve. This is where the clever bit came to light, I could now set the base idle via data scan. My aim was to set the AAC valve controlled by the ECU to the desired value of 15% (currently mine has been around 25% to 30%) So with all connectors left in place and data scan displaying the AAC % at 28% I gradually adjusted the base idle screw anticlockwise, bit by bit the % dropped until I arrived at 15% and my tick over settled at 750 rpm. I now have a cold start rpm of around 1200rpm when ambient is at 10 deg' c and a 1000rpm cold start when ambient is at 20 deg' c. In both cases the rpm dropped gradually within the first five minutes to about 850rpm settling at 750rpm when upto full temp' Chuffed to bits to say the least. Also, as I now have a lower start up rpm and I don't get that un nerving rattle at cold start up!,

Cheers guys,:thumbup1::thumbup1: I have read through the relevant links with great interest. If I understand them correctly, they will guide me through the setting of the linkage mechanism so as to balance the lift of both butterflies. This will still leave me with my dilemma as to setting the dead stop for each individual butterfly in the closed position. I am contemplating as Eggs suggests, setting them both so as to not see any light past the butterfly vane. From there I will then balance the lift as per the suggested links. What do you guys think?

Cheers Vod's. Appreciate it if you could find it mate!:thumbup1:

Cheers Eggs,:thumbup1: Adjusting them so as to just close out the light makes perfect sense. I think I will give that a go.