redwine300

Cheers Eggs! So as to help me understand, I believe that there is a dead stop for both butterflies? If I was to back these off and totally clean the throttle bodies, how would I then set them? Is it a matter of just slightly lifting the butterflies by way of the dead stop screw?

Mmmm, that's what I thought vodkashots. I seem to also recall a small bore in the throttle body in front of the butterfly that may allow air to the idle system. Not 100% sure mind. Cheers Steams. Very nice link mate. Looks I am going to be busy for the next couple of evenings. At the moment I have both AAC valves in bits on the kitchen table! Lets hope that I can remember how they go back together. Lol I think I may have figured out how the bi metal air control valve works also, either that or I have fooked it. Lol

Cheers 300_zx. I will get some carb cleaner at the weekend. (Halfords?) As you say Baz, take the bodies off. I like the idea of that. Thanks Trond, do you know what the butterfly gap should be?

Good call znut!

I plan to clean my throttle bodies over the next few days, can anyone recommend a decent cleaner please? Also, when I have cleaned them, I plan to check that the butterflies shut correctly. Am I right in thinking that they should snap shut? or should there be a gap? My understanding is that they should close off completely, (snap shut) leaving the auxiliary air control system, in conjunction with the ECU to determine the correct tick over. Would that be correct?

:thumbup1:Thanks for the links Medallion Man.:thumbup1: Brilliant, can't wait to have a good read up tonight. Looks like a lot of informative information to get my teeth into.

Thanks for the offer mate. At the moment though, I am convinced that I have a harness/connector problem and until I can eliminate that side of things I am a little reluctant to swap the unit. Question, as I understand it, there is a heater element internally. Hense the resistance reading, can I just apply 12v to it so as to activate the bi metal strip? at least that way I will be able to prove the valve one way or another. Also, as this is an aid for initial cold starting. Surely I should see voltage here at start up so as to heat the bi metal strip?

Cheers guys, so far I have removed both items. I have checked the solenoid with 12v and the relevant resistances, all are spot on. I have also dismantled them both and given them a good clean. My issue is with the air regulator valve, the one pictured with the black tubular inlet. The resistance check on this was spot on. Surely I should have voltage on the harness side so as to influence the bi metal strip? at the moment I can not seem to get any voltage what so ever. Hope that makes sense?

Could someone help me understand the exact purpose and function of this valve please? Also, are there any multi meter readings that I may be able to try to both the valve itself and the voltage I should be looking for from the harness side? The reason I ask is, due to the cold but dry weather of late, I have been out and about in the zed quite a bit. problem is, my tick over starts at 1200 rpm and gradually settles at 750 rpm once she has reached full temp'. This makes initial driving very difficult especially as I have a troublesome gearbox. If I disconnect it, there appears to be no noticeable effect at all.

I don't blame you mate. I think if I had realised what I was letting myself in for I may have done the same. Good luck with the harness replacement. Looks a mammoth job!

I think page 124 and onwards might be of some help mate. http://stadzport.com/FSM/EL_Electrical.pdf Hope I got the link right. lol

Paint thinners or turpentine may be worth a try. (I have had great success when removing the butyl rubber used to fix the rear lights) Try just a small area first, just to check that the rubber does not react adversely

Hi Markderby, That sounds very much like my issue, I will try the same test tomorrow with regards to disconnecting the VTC during revving the engine. If that is indeed the problem, what would be involved in the remedy? Thanks guys, I feel a bit more relaxed about solving the problem.

Cheers Tudor, That sounds very promising. I have started to worry about it being something more serious, but your diagnosis sounds very likely. Not too sure when I might be able to tackle the problem, but am I at risk of doing damage as things stand at the moment? Also, I can replicate the noise every time I put her in the garage. I have a slight incline leading to a small step at the opening of the garage, and when I slip the clutch and add throttle the noise occurs when under load. Does this tie in with the VTC springs do you think?

Cheers Noz, That might explain why sometimes after say, pulling up quickly at a roundabout, the RPM would dip quite low and then recover.

Cheers Noz. :thumbup: Really appreciate your feedback. Out of interest, what was the main readings that indicate adjusting the base idle? It's just that I would like to understand how all of the readings affect each other and how they work together.

After changing both 02 sensors and checked a few other things, I thought I would run Data Scan just to check. As far as the sensors go, all appears to be good. Would someone take a look and see if everything else seems correct? [video=youtube_share;kbN_e6FoIKY] Sorry about the quality, Will try again at the weekend.

A bit of an update. I connected Data Scan up again tonight and used the active test function for the VTC test. It forces the valve timing control solenoids to function when at idle. I did them both connected and then one at a time so as to test them individually. The manual dictates that during the test, the engine will stall if both solenoids operate correctly. This exactly what happened, even when I disconnected say the left one to test the right, and vise versa, she still tried to stall. Only thing that I am not sure of is, the noise it made during the test. I know that the solenoid valves are operating at the wrong time during the test but they were quite rattly. Would this be to be expected? or is it a bad sign?

Brilliant thread Mark. I would love to be there at the first start up, I am sure it will sound awesome.

Welcome to the club mate.

Cheers Vod's Just back form a 20 mile blast up the M69 and she ran great. guess I can rule out any problem there then.

Can someone tell me what I should be looking out for when applying 12v dirrectly to my VTC selenoids please? I am trying to determine if they are actually working or not. I imagined that I would hear a positive click each time I connected/disconnected the live, would this be correct?

Thanks for taking the time to take a look/listen though mate. I am currently checking voltage from the harness side and also looking at applying 12v to each solenoid. I will let you know what I find

Cheers Steams, Just got to sort my top end rattle out so as to be confidant I won't do any harm when I'm out for a spin. Not sure if you have had chance to listen to my video yet. It's the thread called.. adding a video. PS Would appreciate your thoughts on what you mmight think the cause could be.

80k? Not excessive I suppose. Meant to ask, have you an engine management light on the dash? It just sounds so similar to a friends issues lately and that turned out to be the valve timing. Maybe something similar, just a thought mate. Any updates by the way?