redwine300

I have Mongoose catback with Japspeed downpipes, I have just left the pipework for the AIV's in place from the point of where the flexible pipe connects. As for the MOT, you will find that the 300zx does not appear on the database and therefore does not qualify for a cat test. You will/should be put through a Best Emission Test, BET for short, of which it will fail and from there you will be tested for emissions for below 3.5% Co. Mine passes each time at around 2.5% Co So long as your car is in good order, you should be fine I would of thought.

Personally I would relace it mate.

Out of interest, how much are you asking for the arches?

Bumpty bump ps Eggs, is the offer of some pictures still on mate? no worries if not. I can imagine folk having better things to do in this glorious Zed wheather.

Hey Russ, Any progress?

Sounds to me as though you might have an issue with the master cylinder. You should be able to at least push fluid through at the calliper. Were you having a particular issue prior to bleeding the system?

Cheers Baz. I hope to have a good poke around at the week end. Do you think it is possible to remove everything pertaining to the air conditioning apart from the compressor without a major strip down? If I do manage to strip everything off, will it be OK to leave the compressor in place and disconnected from the pipework for a while? Or will I run the risk of damage to the compressor itself?

Hi Eggs, I have had a good read of the manual and have gained a basic idea of where they seem to be, but if you would put some pictures up when you have time that would be a great help mate.

Hi Baz, that's right mate. Both said that the system was free of leaks. I thought of the o rings out of desperation as I do not know where the most likely places might be to be honest.

I know what you mean Eggs, I was thinking of renewing all o rings from the bulkhead onwards. I have managed to undo the two at the bulkhead itself, just want to understand how to access the rest. Would just like to know how to go about it and how much work will be involved.

I have had a couple of places look at it, they both said it should be fine and took my money! I just think that they were not capable of fully repairing the system due to the complexity so I am a bit reluctant to let anyone else do it. Would like to solve it myself to be honest once and for all!

Like it!

Yes mate. The last time I had it re charged it seemed to last all summer, but over time it looks as though it has gradually lost the refrigerant. Can't see any visible leaks though, so I though I would start with the seals.

I am contemplating replacing all of the O rings on my air conditioning system. Is it possible to do whilst the unit etc is still on the car? I guess there will be issues with access. How many out of ten in terms of difficulty would this likely to be?

Ditto!

So as for a reference point, what settings were you using? If I were you I would make notes of every combination you try and the effects they had. This way you can always revert back to the ones that gave you the best results.

Second picture is not bad at all for a first attempt. Mind you, I would need to see the opposite side so as to see the level of penetration. Ideally, the back should look the same as the front. How thick is the plate? The reason I ask is that it would be worth using a 1.5mm to 2.0mm thickness just to get the hang of things. That way you will not have to worry about blowing through so often. Once you have then developed your technique, you can the look at thinner material. Keep up the good work.

That's scary! Is that a rare occurrence in your opinion Jeff, or should we all be checking ours? Think I will be having a poke around mine at the week end after seeing that.

Looks very nice, but seems a little over priced to me. One thing I would say is, make sure you check underneath for corrosion, particularly rear sills and arches to name but a few. Mechanical issues are fairly few and far between if it' been maintained, but corrosion can be a killer. Welcome to the forum by the way.

Definitely worth making sure the viscous fan is working. There is a straight forward check than can be done, albeit a bit scary. When the engine is first started from cold, you should be able to stop the fan with a heavily gloved hand. I do this by gradually applying pressure to the inside edge of the fan until it stops. Once the engine is up to temp' you should find it impossible to stop, you should also notice a considerable difference in air flow when revved. Please be careful mind.

Having had my rear sub-frame out a couple of times so as to make various repairs, which in turn resulted in the camber arms being removed and re fitted. Is there an easy way of checking that I have returned the camber set up correctly? The reason I ask is, I am noticing a slight uneven tyre wear from outside to inside. Tracking has been set using track-rite plate method so as to toe out very slightly and the camber, well I just set that to the mid position on the eccentric bolts. Any thoughts/tips?

fuel lines or cam belt covers?

Odd wheel nut? :lol: :lol:

Passed the MOT!! No advisories either! :dance::dance:

So far so good, at least you are now getting an idea of what lays ahead. I would suggest not doing anything too hasty as yet until you know the full extent of the corrosion. Nissan went to a lot of trouble so as to design multiple sill sections and floor pan to maximise rigidity, the last thing you want to do is compromise the structural strength. If I was you, I would also use paint stripper so as to clearly see the transition from corrosion to good steel, that way you can be sure of cutting back to none corroded steel. As you say, take some time to remove the trim etc', that way you will be sure of the extent of the corrosion. That way you will be able to plan the sequence of repairs. It is too easy to tack a piece in, only to realise it has to come back out so as to allow access to another area. Watching with interest.