veilside01702 Posted June 13, 2013 Share Posted June 13, 2013 (edited) I got underneath the car to do some sealing and rust preventative and managed to make 2 holes using the wire brush and a paintbrush covered in underseal..... Can anyone advise me where to source section of panel I need ? I want to cut out section and replace....... I am trying to track down anyone I know who can weld..... I am going to clean area up later with drill and wire brush to see how far the rot has crept...... Is this sill section or floorpan? any idea of thickness of metal to use to make replacement section if I can't get replacement? I even thought about aluminium mesh and JB weld for about half an hour......( I was a bit depressed when finding this so please forgive me!)......lol I am getting more and more upset finding how many things need doing now....... Edited August 27, 2013 by veilside01702 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Medallion Man Posted June 13, 2013 Share Posted June 13, 2013 just pop "rust" in the search field.... you are not alone with this.... 20 year or cars all have rust .... (unless they have been extremely well looked after or fixed). outer sills are available, see the traders section ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruishy1 Posted June 13, 2013 Share Posted June 13, 2013 clean the metal up, when you see the rust ends, go another 4 inches past that for good metal. I use 0.8mm for car bodywork stuff, its a little thicker than the OEM stuff but helps add some strength. If you were closer i would ahve fixed it for you mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redwine300 Posted June 13, 2013 Share Posted June 13, 2013 Not to sure I understand where those photo's refer too. Are they front left and front right? are they the jacking points? Firstly, as ruishy1 said, you need to clean back so as to see the full extent of the rust. On past experience you may well find more corrosion as you delve deeper I'm afraid. The degree of repair will depend on you future aims for the car. Are you intending to patch up just to get by? or are you thinking long term? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Osty1 Posted June 13, 2013 Share Posted June 13, 2013 Not to sure I understand where those photo's refer too. Are they front left and front right? are they the jacking points? Firstly, as ruishy1 said, you need to clean back so as to see the full extent of the rust. On past experience you may well find more corrosion as you delve deeper I'm afraid. The degree of repair will depend on you future aims for the car. Are you intending to patch up just to get by? or are you thinking long term? Looks like sill area but has side skirt fitted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
veilside01702 Posted June 13, 2013 Author Share Posted June 13, 2013 clean the metal up, when you see the rust ends, go another 4 inches past that for good metal. I use 0.8mm for car bodywork stuff, its a little thicker than the OEM stuff but helps add some strength. If you were closer i would ahve fixed it for you mate That is really nice of you Ruishy1..... Not that far from yours though........:biggrin: I shall go and get a sheet of 0.8mm tomorrow..... Thanks for the advice... Russ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
veilside01702 Posted June 13, 2013 Author Share Posted June 13, 2013 Not to sure I understand where those photo's refer too. Are they front left and front right? are they the jacking points? Firstly, as ruishy1 said, you need to clean back so as to see the full extent of the rust. On past experience you may well find more corrosion as you delve deeper I'm afraid. The degree of repair will depend on you future aims for the car. Are you intending to patch up just to get by? or are you thinking long term? Well I have had her since 2000 and can't bear to part with her.... So gonna get brutal and cut out all rust found..... The outer skin on N/S was replaced due to major side impact, looks like they left floorpan buckled and dented..... not a good repair... but no rust on outer... Looking in hole there seems to be little rust to be seen. It appears to be the jacking points have filled with water where it has sat for 6 years without moving..... I shall do some investigation work tomorrow and see how far the rust stretches, or how much I can see..... Just had thought.... father in law has one of those camera in long flex stick things with monitor..... gonna borrow it and look inside the sills...... at least that way I can see extent of future problems and deal with it before hand.... If it isn't too bad I am gonna fill sill with waxoyl after it's welded..... I shall post pics tomorrow..... Thanks.... Russ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
veilside01702 Posted June 13, 2013 Author Share Posted June 13, 2013 Just picked up camera and monitor from father in law and had a scope down the sills on the way in........ haven't got any way to record the video out from the camera at the moment..... The N/S sill is localised to only the front jacking point with no sign of rust all the way down in either the inner or outer sill..... fed camera through hole between sills..... The O/S sill looks like the titanic's underwater pictures from the film.... lol The lens is so small even a tiny bit of rust looks massive..... but, the inner sill looks okay, but the outer skin is covered in rust..... no holes, just very rusty and covered by the side skirts..... A question I have is....... Would it be possible to inject something like Kurust into the outer sill to harden the rust as a temporary measure till I can get it replaced next year? I am thinking about using a washer jet on a long piece of clear pipe, feeding it right in and pressure feeding Kurust through pipe, rotating it and slowly withdrawing pipe...... I was thinking this may slow the rust till next year...... possibly adding waxoyl on another pass????? Also, is it possible to buy just the jacking point section of floor pan / sill ???? As the holes are about 5cm long by 2 cm wide at most..... or is it a make your own only option? Thanks..... Russ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joely P Posted June 14, 2013 Share Posted June 14, 2013 I think the primary concern should be to isolate the cause and rectify that. If the rust isn't too far gone you could use a rust converter, dinitrol rc900 is also good stuff and comes in an aerosol so you can use their 600mm extension wand. That's what I used to inject the cavity wax throughout the whole of my sills/box sections. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spin Doctor Posted June 14, 2013 Share Posted June 14, 2013 i would wait until you got the time and money to repair correctly. then take the skirts of to reveal the extend of the rot but be prepaired for some root that you cant see. and if its a uk car be even more prepaired and take a seat bud, dont despair and repair. long live the 300. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
veilside01702 Posted June 14, 2013 Author Share Posted June 14, 2013 Well I bit the bullet and bought a few 12 inch square pieces of 0.9mm steel as that is all they had available at local company...... with the intention of fabricating the section I need and getting someone who can weld to do the welding....... Errrrrmmmm.... then I bought a snap-on/Cebora 880 welder from someone locally..... it is mint..... guy used it once or twice and decided to get someone else to do work for him..... I picked it up for £80.... So now I need to practice for a while till I feel confident to do the work needed..... I need to fabricate the front piece of sill / floorpan that has the raised piece where the front wing meets the sill..... I think this is the jacking point..... so can't copy the original as mine are rotted away, so going to make a circular raised piece that fits a trolly jack / axle stand a bit better? Forming this is going to be the fun bit.... but it will be unique.....lol Any advice.....(sensible) please........lol Thanks Russ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruishy1 Posted June 14, 2013 Share Posted June 14, 2013 that welder was a abrgain mate, cebora are good welders. First off get rid of the disposable gas bottles, they last like 15 mins of your lucky, buy a proper regulator and get gas from BOC, not only do they last alot longer, but the gas is a lot better for welding. Dont try and butt the metal together, overlap it, butting together you tend to blow holes. Set your gasflow to about 15 litre per minute, make sure any metal is as clean as you can get it. Now when your welding rather than trying to do one continuous bead, do it in pulses to get the stack of dimes effect like when you tig weld, do a small pulse for like 1 second, if it looks good then the next one pojt your wire at the leading edge of the one you just did and do the same thing. Its tedious mate, but it ensures good welds with it being alot less likely to blow holes. Again, if you were closer i would show you how to weld and help you do it, your just a little bit too far ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
veilside01702 Posted June 14, 2013 Author Share Posted June 14, 2013 Bloody typical Ruishy1 being too far away...... thanks for the advice, I am gonna have a go at practicing sunday... If there is any gas in his bottle... I will have a chat with BOC as I get my medical oxygen cylinders from them.....lol Better not use one of them or might be a large explosion.......lol Thanks for the advice I shall be trying to get gas bottle and regulator tomorrow, if I can't I will grab a couple of disposable till monday..... I will try the overlap and pulses...... bet I blow lots of holes though......lol Thanks Ruishy1..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruishy1 Posted June 14, 2013 Share Posted June 14, 2013 you want it on minimum power setting with a wire feed setting about 65 percent of maximum Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tudor... Posted June 15, 2013 Share Posted June 15, 2013 I wish there was someone near me selling one of those welders for 80 quid! Ruishy, I'll drive to yours with a boot full of beer and you can fix mine :lol: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruishy1 Posted June 15, 2013 Share Posted June 15, 2013 i dont liike beer, just buy me a chinese for every day im working on it ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
veilside01702 Posted June 15, 2013 Author Share Posted June 15, 2013 I have loads of Chinese takeaways near me Ruishy1.......:wink:.....lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Posted June 15, 2013 Share Posted June 15, 2013 I dont know wether you know this yet, but if you remove the rear interior quater pannels you will have good visual access to the inner sill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MasterCookieman Posted June 15, 2013 Share Posted June 15, 2013 I would get the carpet up, you can check the sills pretty well; through the inner sill holes with a torch. Give the outer sills a poke with a screw driver. Also lift the passenger front carpet up, where the ECU is, mine was totally rotten there. I'd also pull out the tool trays either side in the boot and check down each corner. Mine was rotten pretty much everywhere, but those were the key areas. If you want to see where mine rusted then check my bottom link below, it might help with your investigation and help you gauge how bad yours is. Good luck with it! :) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
veilside01702 Posted June 17, 2013 Author Share Posted June 17, 2013 Well picked up welder on saturday morning and some argon / co2 bottles, cheap welding mask and gauntlet gloves...... Gonna go get some steel offcuts tomorrow and have a practice...... The welder looks used but in good condition for £80..... I am going to lift carpet and check sills tomorrow, so I will try and get some pics if I can...... Checked boot and No rust to be seen..... looks like targa leak, but full of muck round seals...... gonna run some plastic strimmer wire down the drain tubes to check they are clear.......... Did the same on my saab.... I have side skirts bonded to bodywork so hard to check as most of the sill is enclosed...... so can't poke it unfortunately.... Gonna try and pull qtr panel to check as well...... Might even get the wire brush on drill out and the flapper wheels on the polisher and try to find good clean metal...... gonna remove the underseal, rust and dirt from under the car.... Any advice on how to form the jacking points from sheet steel???????????? Thanks.... Russ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
veilside01702 Posted June 18, 2013 Author Share Posted June 18, 2013 Started by wire brush on drill over front N/S floorpan and found a cover up job over accident damage...... the floorpan had been badly buckled, outer sill replaced, front seat mount replaced and all covered with filler, seam sealer and tons of underseal.... After cleaning most of the muck off I found 3 tears in the floor, 2 holes in the bottom of the sill where it meets the floorpan, the jacking point is half rusted away and the front corner where the floorpan meets the front bulkhead and sill has rotted away..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
veilside01702 Posted June 18, 2013 Author Share Posted June 18, 2013 I was thinking of cutting out the jacking point and replacing with right angle piece of metal closing the holes, separate piece for floorpan beaten to sort of match angles.... Going to get angle grinder tomorrow and cut out what needs to go and clean up what's left..... Tried Mike for new floorpan section, he can get sill parts but not floorpan.... Looks like fabrication is the only option left.... Any thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruishy1 Posted June 18, 2013 Share Posted June 18, 2013 yeah get your self a good sized ball pein hammer mate, and as your welding the sections, beat them with the ball side to shape them. the heat from the welding makes the panels more pliable 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
veilside01702 Posted June 18, 2013 Author Share Posted June 18, 2013 I dont know wether you know this yet, but if you remove the rear interior quater pannels you will have good visual access to the inner sill. Took off rear qtr panel on N/S and there is some rust in there, but appears to be surface rust........ but going to try to have a better look when I have somewhere to put the interior when it comes out..... Building a shed to house car parts now....so may be a week before I actually get to pull the interior.... Mrs is none too happy another shed is growing in the garden for the car.....lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redwine300 Posted June 19, 2013 Share Posted June 19, 2013 So far so good, at least you are now getting an idea of what lays ahead. I would suggest not doing anything too hasty as yet until you know the full extent of the corrosion. Nissan went to a lot of trouble so as to design multiple sill sections and floor pan to maximise rigidity, the last thing you want to do is compromise the structural strength. If I was you, I would also use paint stripper so as to clearly see the transition from corrosion to good steel, that way you can be sure of cutting back to none corroded steel. As you say, take some time to remove the trim etc', that way you will be sure of the extent of the corrosion. That way you will be able to plan the sequence of repairs. It is too easy to tack a piece in, only to realise it has to come back out so as to allow access to another area. Watching with interest. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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