Everything posted by redwine300
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If memory serves me right, the relay is behind the drivers side inner wheelarch liner. (brown in colour) Upper left hand side as you look at the wheel. Hope that helps some. As for the diode, I have no clue I'm afraid.
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As I have just started to put my plenum back together, I thought I might as well check the plugs while I was at it. I always thought that if an engine is set up correctly, I would expect them to be a nice Orange to Brown colour. Would this be a correct assumtion for these motors also? I noticed that there are 2 different makes fitted, will this be ok? Should I also re gap them? if so what would be the correct gap? (1992 uk manual tt) Thanks in advance guy's. Dave.
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Already done mate!
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Just wanted to say a big thanks to Rolandas and Eggs. I have been working on a plenum pull and during my exploits I discovered some split pipework. I posted comments about my woes and these guy's very kindly helped me out. Not only did they refuse any payment for the them, they even wavered the postage! I can't thank you guy's enough and just needed to make my gratitude puplic. Cheers Guy's:thumbup1::thumbup1::thumbup1:
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This may sound daft, but have you checked your temp' sensor connections also? The AAC reading is linked to engine temperature, so if the connection is a bit dodgy then it may well be affecting the AAC.
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Mine is as the one on the right. Once I had cleaned it and refitted, I could get my AAC reading to between 15% and 25% when hooked up to Data Scan. I could even fine tune the base idle so as to hit mid limit, 20% As Rolandas says, might not be an OEM one on the left.
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OK, I would say that things are moving as they should and so long as there is not a faulty seal in there it should work. Maybe worth spraying some wd40 in there and working back and fourth for a while. Next step is to see if you have resistance at the connector. Not sure on this model of unit but I would imagine it to be somewhere in the region of 10 ohms I think it is a bit difficult to test the movement with direct voltage, I did this with mine but to no avail. Works great in situ though.
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As I thought, very different to mine. I also thought they were all the same but looks as though they differ for some reason. I have a feeling that this looks like a sealed unit. I noticed what looks like a return spring in the last picture. If you apply pressure to the end of the rod in your second picture, can you get the thing to move in and out/back and fourth? looks to me that the motor pushes in wards and the spring returns it.
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Looking at those pictures a bit closer, It does not look as though the cast assembly is the same as mine. What year/model is it from? Mine is a UK manual 1992 tt and the one noticeable difference is the underside of the assembly, the face that sits against the gasket. On mine it is all open and I can clearly see the base idle screw and various chambers. Maybe there are different designs depending on make and model?
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So is all of the brass tube seized within the connector side of the assembly? Maybe worth soaking in plus gas or wd40 over night to free it. At least that way you get to play around with the spare.
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I see what you mean. The brass tube is held in place by a seal, it should just pull out of housing. As for the spring and shuttle valve, these should just fall out from either half. You may have to give each part a slight tap to free them if they are stuck. Hope that helps mate.
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In picture 2 it should show an exploded view of the AAI valve. It has 2 cross head screws that bolt the valve mechanism to the body of the valve, make sure you have a very good fitting screwdriver as these screws are a pig to undo. Take the unit apart gradually as there are a few moving parts in there.
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My first thoughts are that the rpm is dropping due to the additional load when you switch the air con on. This says to me that the FCID valve is either stuck or the 12 volt solenoid has packed in. Have a read through this link, it was a great help to me in understanding how they all come apart etc' http://www.pexcom.com.au/z32cms/e107_plugins/content/content.php?content.335 It is worth checking that the solenoid is working OK first, just apply 12v to it and you will hear it click back and fourth. Saves time cleaning the thing only to find that it is faulty. Anyway, see how you get on and if you get stuck give us a shout. I have serviced all 3 valves relating to the idle system on mine with good success.
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Cheers mate! How much do I owe you?
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Thought I would spend some time cleaning the Throttle Bodies before the re fit. I thought they might be a bit dirty but did not envisage just how bad they were. Took me bl**dy all day to do them both, worth it I guess though. First picture shows a before and after, second picture shows a close up of the first one finished
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Cheers Eggs, Much appreciated. I don't know much about the restrictors either, beats me! As you say, worth considering new ones. May look at putting new ones on at a later date. Again, cheers mate.
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Good to hear you got it sorted. Nice one Jeff.
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I think the main function of the FCID valve is to raise the idle speed slightly so as to compensate for the additional engine load caused when the Air Con or power steering is engaged. I would let the engine warm up fully and try switching the Air Con on, you should see a noticable increase in RPM, (apprx 100rpm) same for when you rotate the steering.
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That's very generous mate! I will PM you my address. At least let me pay the postage. Cheers.
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Hi Eggs, The same as the ones that Mark Derby is selling in this link. http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?169643-PCV-valves-and-hoses-wanted
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Bit of an update. Drilled and heli-coiled all 4 of the m6 tapped holes that hold the AAI valve on today. One step nearer to putting her back together. Just need to source some replacement PCV valve pipes.
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Cheers Baz.:thumbup1: I will read up on it. Also, maybe I should do the dremmel work to the plenum while it is off also. Looks like I am going to be busy. lol
