redwine300

I can't say for sure, as both leading corners of the rear arches were missing due to corrosion. My understanding is that these areas were closed seams with no drain gaps. I would have a good look at the inside of the rear arches, (from inside the boot) especially the passenger side near the fuel filler neck. Mine had rusted through and was spraying water etc' into the well itself.

No problem at all mate. If my exploits help others, I am well happy.

1992 UK tt targa. lwb I have done both sides know. http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=15465&page=26

I think it may be for these. http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?168605-big-thanks-to-silverline Just a guess.

Impressive!

I know! Me again. :lol: Now that I am happy that my o2 sensors are working, I decided to re check my emissions. Great results!! :dance: Both sides are reading the same! (give or take), at 1.8% CO2 MOT? bring it on. :yes:

Personally, It looks as though they may have used a large socket to press it home. The split area looks as though the socket was not square and it has pushed through the shoulder. If it was me, I would be tempted to change it as it is a critical joint, the last thing you want is that niggly feeling in the back of your mind every time you take her for a spin. Would probably use a different garage mind. Maybe they should have heated the arm up, that way reducing the amount of force required. Just my thoughts.

Maybe this one then? http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?168325-Manifold-gasket-drivers-side

Was this the post Mark? http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?168294-Pulling-the-turbos-with-the-engine-still-in

Tested my 2 new o2 sensors with Data Scan tonight. Brilliant results!! Well happy.

Well, managed to keep my laptop powered up long enough to do a full engine temperature o2 test with Data Scan tonight. Brilliant results even if I do say so myself. :dance: Holding the rpm at 2000, both o2 readings smoothly fluctuated between 10 and 95 on the display. :dance: I could also watch the RICH / LEAN indicator at the bottom of the display alternate. I counted the flashes, (that were in sync with the dials) to be about 5 times per 10 seconds! spot on or what!! :yes: This bit may be my imagination, but I think she even sounded healthier when revving a her few times. :biggrin: ps As my earlier post, I would still like to know what other readings may be worth looking at. For example, what should my Base AF be reading? etc'

Wow! Please keep the photo's coming Mark. This will be the closest I will ever get to doing this myself. Very envious indeed. (in a good way.)

:lol:Anyone?:lol:

Cheers Gary, not to sure what the main difference will be, but I guess there must be some improvements.

Fitted 2 new o2 sensors, seem to be working. I think the old ones have been dead for some time, maybe as long as I have owned the car! Result.

OK, Fitted both new o2 sensors, put everything back together and fired her up! Straight away I could see an instant difference. Both readings started off at around 30 (using data scan) and as the temperature rose so did both the o2 readings. I did not get quite up to full temp' but both o2 readings levelled out at 96. At this point, when I revved the engine, both readings shot down to virtually zero and then retuned to 96. Not a thorough check I grant you, but at least it suggests I now have 2 working o2 sensors. From what I am now seeing, would you think that things are working correctly? I did take a snapshot of the full display and would like to ask, should I be looking at other readings in conjunction with the o2 readings?

Cheers Mark!! It's off to the garage I go then.

Help!! Both 02 sensors turned up today, great news I thought. Question is, can I fit them randomly or is there a left hand and a right hand? I am hoping that they are universal.

Thanks again z32bolt. I will have a look from below at the week end, as you say, it will save a lot of hassle that way. Just have to Tackle the dreaded claustrophobia! Lol

Cheers Taff, you're right, I will need one of those when I come to fit the new ones. To get the old ones out I used a 22mm ring spanner on a knuckle with 1/2 drive. I thought the full ring would have the extra strength needed to crack the seized threads! Mind you, I had to cut the wires off to get the thing on.

Cheers z32bolt. I wish you lived closer also. I could do with some experienced help sometimes. As you say, I should just swap the original elbows for something a little more effective. I will have to give it some thought. There just appears to be so much to remove before I can access the drivers side elbow from above. Mind you, having said that, it will be the same dilemma if I go the route of gutting. I will still have to clear stuff away to get to the sensor bore hole. Decisions.. Decisions!!

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-434-differential-axle-oils.aspx Maybe of some help mate.

Totally agree there z32bolt. It's just that I know very little about what to get and which ones will fit etc'. I am forever buying little bits and bobs only to find they don't fit.

Looking at it from the passenger side, I would say it is possible to remove the elbow, but the drivers side seems a bit restricted by the gearbox. May just be the way I am looking at it. If I should get to remove them both, what options have I with regards to a better elbow such as the series one as you say?

So, having successfully removed both 02 sensors, I am now contemplating gutting the pre cats in situ while the sensors are out. I understand there is a noticeable power gain to be achieved. I have read about using the threaded hole to soak the ceramic material with oil so as to prevent the dust from damaging the turbo seals. Also, I was thinking of maybe rigging up an airline so as to run a constant flow of air from upstream, via the 02 threaded bore, this way I could make sure that the dust flowed away from the seals. What's everyones thoughts? Are there any additional precautions or tips that I may need to consider? Thanks in advance.