Stephen

There’s a white hot wheels version available atm, picked one up the other week.

Unless something unforeseen happens I will be coming.

Yeah. So I basically stopped being employed and continued the same thread of work but had to find my own clients. Massive leap of faith.

I hope so. I started my own business this year and I’m super busy, I haven’t actually taxed it yet.

MOT passed.

I’m afraid that could be a variety of things. As Richard says it could be the mechanical timing is off. To do the belt though, the wiring harness will have been disrupted as would the inlet pipework. It could be as silly as the ECU temp sensor not seated correctly. You’d have to start at the beginning. If you have access to software, it will make things much easier.

Didn’t know there were meets at Port Solent.

The reality is I’m afraid it won’t. I’ve got new brakes all round, from a newer car, braided lines and a new BMC and a brace. My brakes are good, they feel ok. The stock BMC is already a big bugger. Compare them to those of a modern hot hatch and they feel different. There are certain parts of the design, such as the ABS being in the boot. Modern cars are engineered to have sharp brakes, they zed and older cars like it have progressive brakes. It’s sort of a trick to make new cars feel like they have better brakes than they do. I bet your Audi is FWD to?

Is the HICAS light on? The float switch connection on the cap can get damaged. If the lights on then either the speed sensor is causing issue or the fluid level isn’t showing properly. It’s got to be something silly if it worked before.

The air in there can be really stubborn, especially if you fully drained the system. I don’t recall making any changes to the wiring on mine, the reason I get the hicas fault light is if the fluid is low. That or when my Speedo used to fail. You have definitely connected the short link correctly?

Not today, but last weekend; I pulled the cover off, inflated the tyres to the right pressures and connected the battery. Fired straight up and I pulled her out the garage, swept the dust/leaves away. Hopefully get her taxed in the next couple of weeks.

Depending on the way those brakes are put together you may find the R33 create very little extra clearance. Quite a few are based around using the 350z disc which is essentially the same set up as the R33 just with a larger mounting bolt and iirc about 10mm of offset.

Yeah, there the cat temp sensors. The o2 sensors are in the engine bay.

Does anyone know off hand what thread the lower drain on the aftermarket radiators are? Mine got an issue and before I go down there, I’d rather just have the correct size part to swap over.

Oh also as I brushed my mind pinged back. Isn’t that relay fed by another relay. It’s the Accessory relay I believe. I may be mis remembering.

Iirc and it’s been a while that board is prone to corrosion. So I’d make sure it’s all clean for starters. Then I’d look at how your taking that measurement, your voltage may be off if the ground isn’t a clean one, same as the rest of them. Did you just switch for another relay in the car or is it new? My relays were starting to fail and I had to go through and replace many of the higher useage ones like the ECCS and headlights. The previous owner of my car had extended the loom and fitted a Siemens relay.

It’s just a finned pipe, they live down the front on U.K. models in the path of all the salt and yuck, hence why you’ve not found one. Honestly, unless it’s some very nieche OEM thing, I wouldn’t bother. If it’s for performance in a drift car or something where your cooking the PSF then there’s a multitude of options by MOCAL for example that would be far more efficient and available.

I’ve seen photos but it’s not often been done, as you’ve already realised there’s a fair chunk of stuff in the way. Half the battle is creating the space. TBH if I was personally going to go down the custom turbo layout route I’d be going single.

Well done, I did one in 2017. The road to it was paved with injuries and set backs and I had a bloody cold the day of the event. I kind of stopped after that but I’m back running now, like you I wouldn’t say I enjoy it, there’s moments where it kind of clicks but mostly I find it helps my mind and keeps the beer belly at bay.

The key word there is maintain. Last year maintenance in my Z cost me about £200 tops.

Surely if it’s an import and there’s no warning lights they are going to struggle to know what was specific to the model at production. Luckily mines an 89 and has the better non airbag early wheel anyway.

Use Jubilee, the Mikalors look fancy but they tend to not be as good a seal.

You can exchange the springs on factory springs but tbh unless they’ve been replaced it’s asking for failure. You certainly used to be able to get replacement shocks from Bilstien and KYB. Any lower than 30mm though and your into Proper height adjustable coil overs and you will need to go aftermarket for the camber correction.

Spotted a red zed with a black tailgate in Cardiff, I swear I recognised it as a members car. It was in a lock up near an Industrial park.

For Christ sake, you’ve paid bloody good money for that rebuild. I know it’s not the same builder each time but how hard is it to build an engine.