Stephen

Truth is with these cars until you've pulled the motor you don't know what you will find. Half the previous owners tool box an an oil leak or three isn't uncommon lol. As you say you've pretty much done it before, everyone is intimidated by the vg but once its sat tgere without its shroud of tubes its pretty neat and small. Removing it at that point is like any other engine. I'm talking myself into it as thus winter will be my second engine pull in my car and I may have another zed engine to remove and refit this winter, fortunately the other one won't be alone.

18X10J all round?

The worst thing you can do in that scenario is refill the system with cold water, the difference in thermal losses between the two materials as well as the rapid cooling is what causes the warp. So seeing as you couldn't do that it's cooled naturally and therefore less likely to be damaged in my mind. Only one way to find out at the end of the day. Even if you do have to swap the block I'm sure you will figure it out, quitting is apparently not in your vocabulary haha.

Looks like it's coming on nicely, those enkeis look very purposeful I bet there light too?

Well the centre bearing won't fall apart anymore...lol

Mine spat the coolant and it didn't die. So there's hope.

You need a manual tt swb prop, body's vary the length, auto and manual fronts are different and tt and na diffs vary the back end. I would suggest your best off getting a new one piece because your looking for rocking horse poo. You can make a frankenstine, but that will cause balance issues etc.

Dazvert has some similar ones, something turbine rings a bell. That's too low, looks like it's just collapsed.

I guess the bottom line is you won't fit air bags if your interested in it handling.

Do you know what your curb weight is/was james?

That would mean the bags were on the subframes and struts... The lower the strut ie the shorter the strut the more extreme the camber becomes as the upper and lower arms are a fixed length. Think of it like a bird the cars bod is the birds body, the wings go up as the car body lowers, the lower arms work like this now you can see how that effects the wheels. Even a drop of like 50mm makes the stock adjustment of camber unsatisfactory which is why you need aftermarket arms.

That's captin Morgans time machine.

Andy used to be a member, if you search you should find posts by him he did post pics etc.

Don't put air ride on that lovely car. If you want low go low and stay low. The wheels look ridiculous as the camber goes to hèll on air ride.

Hi Stephen. First car.....I really wouldn't want to pay your insurance bill. If you really really want a z32 then buy one as a long term project, then it will be ready for you when you can access cheaper insurance. Not to mention this is a 20~25 year old car I and many others have had them as a daily driver, running one as a daily is not cheap, wear and tear as well as fuel. You've picked a great car to buy but I think you need to be sensible about the bigger picture. You may be loaded some young people are, at which point I'd recommend you buy a nice new hatch as a daily and enjoy the zed as a special toy.

Why not just fit an aftermarket boost gauge. It will be; A. Easier B. More accurate(depending on what you buy of corse) C. Able to read a higher range for when you inevitably decide you want more boost. I think the stock gauge only goes to 10-12psi doesn't it? Mines Jspec so reads in hmgm or whatever it is. You don't have to go for some Lairy pillar mounted tumour that lights up pink at night, there's subtle ones and even way to incoperated it to look stock. Andy Isherwood had an inter grated boost and water temp I believe that looked stock and proved both if those commonly inconsistent gauges.

As far as I know all uk cars have precats. You can always change to Jspec turbo elbows. What were the ones you were looking at?

Bit cheaper. http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/230640490579?nav=SEARCH

Oh, good luck with the O2 sensors they can be a bit annoying.

Yeah it's a bit fiddly. 1/2" UJ and a good socket makes it easier. Get the starter motor out and the battery gives some breathing space.

That's the ones; http://www.japspeed.co.uk/nissan-300zx-turbo-decat-downpipes.html It's worth searching ebay etc though as other companies sell the same item for less. Be aware, the turbo flange bolts can be trouble plenty if care and wd40 required snapping one is a nightmare in situe. Also be aware that decatting can highlight worn turbo seals causing smoke. The cat merely hides the symptom though.

That my friend is the million dollar question. The 99 spec is the sensible choice for your car but I think you like it less than I do. The horseshoe works esp on stanced cars. My favourite is the 89. Maybe it's a case if waiting for some rare JDM spoiler, there's a lovely veilside one but it's a nightmare to find. http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?142644-seriously-pissed-finally-got-enough-to-get-a-veilside-EC1-spoiler

Depends on what origin your tt is. Jap TT should fit using the stock elbows. UK cars I believe are different. Getting a set that has new elbows is sensible as it's one less old rusty but if metal. Brand new sets are cheap enough from japspeed and the quality is adequate.

Stock rear; http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/251334534695?_mwBanner=1 Adjustable ARB compatible style rear which is actually a stock front; http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/400332374015?_mwBanner=1 Front compatible for adjustable; http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/251132085438?_mwBanner=1 I think though to get the best you need adjustable drop links. Like these; http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/anti-roll-bars/whiteline-universal-ball-joint-drop-links Trouble is the whiteline ones are made from playdough.

Scratch that, that is a rear... The ARB doesn't change it. The front one is a z shape though. I used a 200sx front one at the rear as it was half the price and on the shelf.