Stephen

Found this on my photobucket, I was up to something else so it doesn't show the whole thing but its a start.

Ah you've got the same as me then? http://www.zcentre.co.uk/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.pbv.tpl&product_id=32&category_id=3&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=7 I didn't have to thread it through much, just ran it straight down the firewall. It didn't go anywhere near the turbo oil drain, it's completely independent if the engine so I can remove the block and leave it in place. If I get time il photograph it later.

When it's out il let you know, if it's junk scrap it, if it's any use it's there. As I say it won't be for a little while yet.

Return it and get the long one, then you delete the fender bleed point and make the whole thing simpler and neater. Then the only concern will be making sure its no rubbing on anything or touching the downpipes.

Be nice if the engine didn't start so quickly, I sometimes feel it fires up so quick there isn't enough oil up there yet clickety clackety liter tick.

Maybe your profex is playing up? If it's been re plumbed and the restrictor removed with the boost solenoid assembly, if the profex failed to change the restriction it maybe failed open, it's only an electronic solenoid that opens to variable degrees of your only achieving Wastegate pressure, merely me speculating but maybe an expert could clarify wether that's a possibility.

Can you still buy early style injectors? Something in them makes them more prone to premature failure.

I've got one, it's had a slight bump I'm sure a man of your profession would sort it straight out. You can have it if you want it, it won't be ready for a little while yet though. My new ones still being prepped.

Does it smell musty or like a strange curry smell? It's most likely your targas leaking if it smells damp.

Yeah of corse, there's some that are better than others though aren't there. Some are pretty shocking are they not? From other people's cars on those generic chips that's the kinda numbers you seem to see. Last rr day I was at the stock turbo chipped 13 psi cars on average were making pretty even 340ish fwhp. I've known people to make 370 etc with higher boost if they have been able to on generic chips. Don't forget Noel it wasn't until you came along the UK z scene was adamant that stock injectors and turbos was only good for a max of 370, you've demolished that now thankfully. However those old chipped ecus don't yeild the same results, a testament to your craft if nothing else. Generic chip, 13 psi my money is on 340 ish hp from previous cars I've seen dyno'd and reports on here over the years. Which is why mines coming to you when I can afford to, once I have an engine with 6 cylinders that make compression lol.

Thanks for clarifying Noel. My plan was/is to unplug and simply bypass the small tubes on the boost solenoid. Basically run the 6mm tube straight to the actuator, as il be using an aftermarket MBC. That's fine is it? No special measures required? I also plan to remove the stock knock sensor because it's as you have pointed out before, not as useful as it could be. This will be replaced with an aftermarket knock sensor one what works across the range, or am I confusing myself and thinking about a wide band AFR gauge? You can't just unplug the knock sensor either though can you as it would throw 34 so a restor is required to make it believe it still has the circuit?

Is it the actual frame you want Neil? Or the arms etc round it?

Generic chip? If so 345bhp sorry bud, that seems to be about average on those chips, from what I've seen anyways. A good chip and some more boost say 16psi might net you 365 something just short of 370.

The solenoid just opens a different path to the waste gate to show unrestricted true pressure on to the Wastegate so it opens at 7psi, stock there is a tiny brass restrictor in line that acts like a boost jet tricking the car to produce 9psi. When knock is seen, ie code 34 it activates the solenoid to lower the boost to 7psi and retards timing. That's how I understand it anyway.

Yeah, I'd like to know too. Can they simply be unplugged and bypassed, then the knock sensor bypassed with a resistor?

Just drive it sensibly for 5 to 10 minutes. You don't need to sit it still first, I heard tat can do more harm than good. Just take it easy and don't go boosting it till it's warmed up. Doesn't take that long in these cars. My old Capri used to take about 20 minutes to warm up.

Lol, French cars are like French people. They give up easy. Historically French cars have always been pretty far ahead of their time, and built pretty reliably however modern French cars are crap. The only one I've known people to buy and not get annoyed and disappointed with is those xara Picasso the mommy mobile thing.

I always believed it DID increase your insurance premeuim, that was the majour why they are always proportionately cheaper to buy even once restored.

Pretty sure you can just run a single line to the Wastegate actuator, don't forget the restrictor, that's the thicker tube. The two 3mm ID ones are simply a loop to allow the solenoid to forfil it's function. Not sure about unplugging them. I'm going to bin mine off over winter, who needs the bloody things. You will find it fiddly to replace the actuator line in situee, esp on the drivers side.

A lot of wide arches don't even gain you much on each side 25-50mm I believe, not a great deal. I personally don't like most of the wide body kits they seem to neglect the front leaving you with a triangle type stance.

That's ridiculous! If that was my car I'd have him strung up! On a side note, anyone know what arches they are?

Definatly not right! As said, you've either got a leak or air in the system. The fact you can pump it a few times and it improves supports that thoery. Despite the general opinion that stock brakes are naff I would say differently, if they are in good order they will lock up and engauge the fronts at 60mph even with good tyres if you stamp hard enough on them. Where they fall down is thier ability to do this repeatably, they do over heat quite easily, but you would be on the verge of loosing your liecense by the time you achieved that on the road and driving like a chav. For track driving you definatly need an upgrade but on the road a properly functioning stock setup is more than adequate. What you must appricate though is that they don't feel the same as modern brakes, modern cars intially bite hard then loose that urgency quite quickly, the zed like many older cars the initial bite is softer and less noticeable however the bite continues at an equal rate throughout your braking. A stock z32 hauls from 60 to 0 in roughly 130ft about the same as a ford focus. Bigger brakes won't make you stop any shorter it's grip limited and I seem to remember the ABS is a bit basic compared to a modern one. In short, check for leaks, bleed the system inc the ABS unit.

Nice airport that, very modern. I enjoy the security on segways.

Nada today, nothing more than a windy day for an hour or so. I've been in Warminster all day and madam has been at home nothing there either. Infact I had my sunglasses on on the way home, really nice evening.

Next stop Santas house haha welcome aboard matey. Andrew, I spotted my first one when I was 11 some kid at schools dad owned it, I was so impressed and thought it was seriously fancy. Never thought I would own one. 11 years later I brought mine and I've had that for five years now. A 16 year journey haha.