Stephen

In short, drive it sensibly till warm before you give it hell and after you've given it a trashing drive it gently, I think if it as coming into land. Think of an aeroplane, it climbs it goes along and then it descends, that's how you should drive your zed, warm up, exercise and cool down. That's all that really matters, that and good maintaince. Quality oil and filter changes at regular intervals, I change my oil and filter in the spring before I start driving it.

It's probably been topped up with freshwater at some point, maybe it's time for a coolant flush and replace. Hard to tell from that tough, I think you can test the coolant to see the strength. - - - Updated - - - On the plus side at least it's not brown....

Gosh now your asking... Iirc it's on the subframe. It might be a left over from an autobox, mines an auto shell. We shall see how quick release it is soon as it's coming out. :)

We had this issue with gazes car or similar anyway, the factory boost jet had been removed. So the natural pressure was 7psi, I suppose viewed as a percentage this throws things off and the higher the pressure from stock the higher the error, it's one of those accumulative errors. Question is it a large enough discrepancy to force your error.

Pleased for you mate, that was some shitty luck to begin with but looks like it came good.

It's not stock anymore bud, the hard lines were removed by some one a few years back(long story) plus you can't see much with everything in the way. There is a black w shaped clip by the engine mount, this holds the flow and return. The filter tree has a take off that us the feed, then it goes through the loop and comes back to a nipple on the sump pan near the turbo oil return. I have two joiners by the filter tree, these allow me to uncouple the oil lines easier for engine removal, leaving a 6" tail on the in and out of the block. May gave pics of that are il check.

:lol:

I can get you one of the slave etc. Engine Oil cooler line? Mine will be different mate, my hard pipes etc were deleted, it's two flexi lines.

That's how your will be done then gaz? Angle grinder and some 60 grit discs :p

It's not dropping cylinders intermittently is it? Crusty old loom disconnecting when the vibrations get high. These group RR days are annoying in a way, it's good because it highlights issues but you don't get time to expand on the whys, often the operator doesn't know the car so can't offer much advice. That's why having someone like Noel at the helm changes it as he can monitor the whole picture and knows the car. I know a member on here who was a bit miffed as the car fell short of 500hp due to dett the operator couldn't tell him anymore than that, kinda useless as he wanted to know what was causing the det, no AFR etc were recorded by that RR (Noel probably knows who's cars I'm discussing) Save up your pennies and get it mapped mate, properly. :D

Found this on my photobucket, I was up to something else so it doesn't show the whole thing but its a start.

Ah you've got the same as me then? http://www.zcentre.co.uk/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.pbv.tpl&product_id=32&category_id=3&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=7 I didn't have to thread it through much, just ran it straight down the firewall. It didn't go anywhere near the turbo oil drain, it's completely independent if the engine so I can remove the block and leave it in place. If I get time il photograph it later.

When it's out il let you know, if it's junk scrap it, if it's any use it's there. As I say it won't be for a little while yet.

Return it and get the long one, then you delete the fender bleed point and make the whole thing simpler and neater. Then the only concern will be making sure its no rubbing on anything or touching the downpipes.

Be nice if the engine didn't start so quickly, I sometimes feel it fires up so quick there isn't enough oil up there yet clickety clackety liter tick.

Maybe your profex is playing up? If it's been re plumbed and the restrictor removed with the boost solenoid assembly, if the profex failed to change the restriction it maybe failed open, it's only an electronic solenoid that opens to variable degrees of your only achieving Wastegate pressure, merely me speculating but maybe an expert could clarify wether that's a possibility.

Can you still buy early style injectors? Something in them makes them more prone to premature failure.

I've got one, it's had a slight bump I'm sure a man of your profession would sort it straight out. You can have it if you want it, it won't be ready for a little while yet though. My new ones still being prepped.

Does it smell musty or like a strange curry smell? It's most likely your targas leaking if it smells damp.

Yeah of corse, there's some that are better than others though aren't there. Some are pretty shocking are they not? From other people's cars on those generic chips that's the kinda numbers you seem to see. Last rr day I was at the stock turbo chipped 13 psi cars on average were making pretty even 340ish fwhp. I've known people to make 370 etc with higher boost if they have been able to on generic chips. Don't forget Noel it wasn't until you came along the UK z scene was adamant that stock injectors and turbos was only good for a max of 370, you've demolished that now thankfully. However those old chipped ecus don't yeild the same results, a testament to your craft if nothing else. Generic chip, 13 psi my money is on 340 ish hp from previous cars I've seen dyno'd and reports on here over the years. Which is why mines coming to you when I can afford to, once I have an engine with 6 cylinders that make compression lol.

Thanks for clarifying Noel. My plan was/is to unplug and simply bypass the small tubes on the boost solenoid. Basically run the 6mm tube straight to the actuator, as il be using an aftermarket MBC. That's fine is it? No special measures required? I also plan to remove the stock knock sensor because it's as you have pointed out before, not as useful as it could be. This will be replaced with an aftermarket knock sensor one what works across the range, or am I confusing myself and thinking about a wide band AFR gauge? You can't just unplug the knock sensor either though can you as it would throw 34 so a restor is required to make it believe it still has the circuit?

Is it the actual frame you want Neil? Or the arms etc round it?

Generic chip? If so 345bhp sorry bud, that seems to be about average on those chips, from what I've seen anyways. A good chip and some more boost say 16psi might net you 365 something just short of 370.

The solenoid just opens a different path to the waste gate to show unrestricted true pressure on to the Wastegate so it opens at 7psi, stock there is a tiny brass restrictor in line that acts like a boost jet tricking the car to produce 9psi. When knock is seen, ie code 34 it activates the solenoid to lower the boost to 7psi and retards timing. That's how I understand it anyway.

Yeah, I'd like to know too. Can they simply be unplugged and bypassed, then the knock sensor bypassed with a resistor?