Stephen

:lol: deal

18" are pretty common so plenty to choose from. Ive got fàlken fk452s which are great for the money. Don't think they make them anymore though, it's the fk453 now which iirc isn't so highly praised.

Wonderful be good to see you again pig and have a look over your zed.

These things happen... Thankfully it looks like it's cosmetic damage, new red bumper and nose panel and you will be ok hopefully. Budgets always look appealing but esp when the weather turns it shows what's cheap and what isnt. They don't have to be worlds most expensive tyre just a good reputable brand and equally if not more importantly with plenty of tread depth, expensive worn tyres are often worse than cheap ones in bad weather. At the end if the day tyres are what makes the car do anything without them your stuffed. Lesson learned. What size do you have?

Low power steering fluid comes up HICAS on the dash, the jagging sensation is odd though. Your speedo works right? ECU temp sensor can cause issues, that's the square one if the two on the top hard pipe. What is your idle when cold and when warm? Should be about 750 warm, if it's lower than that it's worth check the Idle valve connection than get get furred up or even fall off. If your getting the power light show when driving along etc that's generally battery, check the connections are clean. If you have the facility check you have 12v when off and 13.5v when running. The temperature has dropped recently that often highlights battery issues. Any other little quirks?

Oh that, that would be rather an expensive spare wheel lol. That rear hub is worth more that a lot of aftermarket car wheels.

Pretty much yeah...I aim to keep things functional at heart so simply running without isn't the best option. I've thought about have a can of tyre weld in the boot but it's crappy stuff if you've ever used it. So I was thinking about using the space saver from a 350/370 as they come with big brakes anyways. Weight reduction is a big subject and I'm making life difficult by not going hole heartedly into it, it's not a racecar so things like carpet and actual functional windows etc will be retained.

Only some early non turbos have no ABS. There are various BMCs are in use on the z32 through production, there isn't a set z32 BMC so with that in mind I guess it's possible, have to try I Spose. There is a mod to put your ABS on a switch so you can still have it on the road, bit late now though hey.

Mine wasn't doing it in neutral or even if you were gentle and progressive just on hard acceleration.

Lol ok, professional adjustment of perameters for gross efficency and peak performance?

It was terrible at first, you got to about 3.5k and it was like a rev limiter came on, crackling and missing. I think it got damaged quite quickly and the way I drive it at times well yeah. Onwards and upwards. Hopefully there will be enough left in the budget for you to tweak the new set up.

Under the nose pannel bud :) out the way, I want as much space round that engine bay as possible for maintaince. - - - Updated - - - :lol: cheers bud, I'm well aware of your problems.

Lol, you would know ;) - - - Updated - - - All restrained by the lovey experience of a gravel drive, I know you know that joy.

Right, thought I'd start this. As some of you may know my cars a bit broken at present and I have a pile of parts ready to fit that gets bigger without it making its way to the car. So lets start with what's up with the engine. Myself and gaz pulled the engine about two winters ago now, as one of the turbo's had failed. Compression was tested at this time with a very even 170psi across the board. Pulling it all apart we found a multitude of issues, egr hanging off causing an exhaust leak old sockets rolling about etc etc. We took that time to replace every damn crusty water and vac pipe and delete just about anything I considered a waste of space. Water plenum bypass, EGR, AIV, PRV, Cruise control, Aircon, Think that's all. The turbos were rebuild by myself and for the first 50-100 miles things were bob on and I didn't give it too much stick. The first couple of pulls it detonated, new plugs, reduced the issue but it still did it a bit. Changed to a smaller gap and great the det was gone. The car was pulling very well at this point with virtually no lag and was dyno'd at 289hp bone stock, no extra boost no chip. Not bad for an old auto engine. Sadly it had started to smoke on over run, I assumed id cocked up one of the turbos during the rebuild. So I had been putting it off for months, well actually years now to pay out for brand new turbos. Anyways as the tax ran out I thought id do some more inspecting as the symptoms just didn't fit the pattern of failed turbos. The first thing I found was that lovely even compression was no more, cyl had a rather lame 115psi. Cue further inspection to work out exactly what block I had, manual/auto etc I assumed it was auto. That's when I found this... That head casting reads R-10Y, wtf is that I thought. It's supposed to read 40P this was one of those penny drop moments. The piston crown sealed that moment of realisation and many dots connected. That's right its an NA, 30p pistons are NA and 30p1 are TT defiantly no 1 on that code. Turns out r-10y is the later spec NA head aswell, so yeas 100% an NA block. Now this engine was fitted by a garage 4 years ago a few months into my ownership and we wont go into that too much but it wasn't a great experience and it transpires it was worse than I first thought. Anyway whilst they refused to reimburse me for that error, a good will gesture was sent out to me in the post of a few quid. So a replacement engine is going to be sourced and fitted this winter. More of that and what's happening to the current late spec NA block. So now more about that shelf of parts. I purchased last winter a full rear subframe assembly off Jaffa, the one off his time attack car. Loads of goodies already polybushed to death etc. So I stripped it down to bare metal and started painting it all with a few coats of lovely hammerite. This is how it stands at present; So this winters aims are. Remove front and rear bumpers, re underseal all of that and rip out and guff. Delete HICAS system Reloacte PS reservoir and fusebox Switch over all suspension to new units from the shelf Fit 354mm diameter brembos Change engine out and preform various mods It sounds like a lot, but hey winter is along time. Don't expect it to be coming through thick and fast. Im lazy haha

Get an assistant to depress the clutch pedal while you watch the slave, the fork should go back and forth. I suspect your 20+ year old clutch didn't appreciate your abuse and has faked that's the most likely, my mates bmw did thus last summer. When I removed his gearbox it was like a hand grenade had gone off, bits of shrapnel and ball bearing everywhere. The thrust bearing had collapsed and taken 8 fingers with it.

That vac picture you've got there is the simplified version with an electronic boost controller. The thing pictured red arrow is either an sub solenoid or egr. I would highly recommend deleting the aiv in any event. Google robos 300zx page. It contains lots of step by step useful bits such as deleting SUV etc and shows the various breakdowns on the vac diagrams. The blue arrow tube is that going to the black solenoid marked with the red arrow? Once you start tracing them to delete stuff you will realise what theyvall are.

This time of year with all the rain MAFs fail due to vented nose panels letting them get wet. How many injectors did you change? Is it all your plugs that were wet with fuel?

If it's an auto it will only start in park or neutral. Made that faux par a few years back myself.

The catagory is to do with the severity of the damage. The buy back policy is often written into your policy sone offer it some don't it's down to you to negotiate this. The catagory may make buy back useless as a cat A for example can't even be broken for parts it must be crushed. Sadly I think the op will struggle to get this car not written off as a catagory D as the costs if the rectification will probably be too heavy in relation to value of the vechile. Sad really but depending on the insurance company a zed with a scratch on every pannel is highly potentially a write off :(

I'm planning on running some hard pipes with a joiner or two straight from the tub to the headlight for dual intakes. I'm guessing a hard pipe will be even louder?

Proper GT car yours Richard always a pleasure to see the old girl.

Me either mines in bits :)

Book stopping distance for a z32 is about the same as a new focus, for a 25 year old cars that's not bad going. The majour limits of the system in terms of braking distance is the ABS efficiency and the amount of grip available. You WILL cook stock brakes on track, regardless of their health or the amount of money spent of "performance pads" etc. I know many members have owned and driven cars that cost a fortune and they understand the stock system is good for what it is, but don't expect miricles it's old. If you have a z32 that the brakes feel crap on there is a fault somewhere, as said they should feel about the same as a modern focus. Not amazing but solid and effective.

Don't think there should be feedback when the abs is activated think the z32 was one of the first cars to stop that horrible pulsing pedel feeling early ABS units caused. Your only notion of it should be the as you described chirp chirp chirp from the front tyres.

Have a research on boost leak testing. You could do with doing one of these to ensure no other loose ends or clamps are present. Often with auto cars the idle is higher post conversion and the idle needs adjusting down, that may of not ever been done. However you need to check that it's not another issue such as the boost leak above first.