Stephen

Been having a bit of an interior spruce. Removed all the interior panels and dyed them, using an Autoglym product. Now all nice and black instead of smokey blue/grey. Also been chasing through a bunch of audio cables from a previous owners “ICE” instal.

Thanks Jeff.

Maybe talk to a local auto electrical chap. It’s a very simple circuit. And to be totally honest it’s use is pretty limited. Just get it by passed.

She fat lol. Have you done any weight reduction on that one?

Is the red one lighter?

If the issue is not the sensor or it’s harness not the ground of the sheathing. The issue must lie with the cable to the ECU. I would test continuity of the white cable from the connector pictured above and the ECU itself. Its a very simple circuit.

How did you install the 1 mega ohm resistor?

Just think about the spring rating a bit. Tein have a habit of whacking in some heavy springs. I think mine were like 12/10kg, that combined with the rest of my set up made the car lovely on flat smooth tarmac, any hint of a bump or rough surface as it was crap. I don’t just mean harsh, I mean traction was poor. I switched out to 6/4kg and the cars noticeably more compliant and quicker in the real world.

If you look in the manual it gives you the pressure. The senders have a habit of failing, so you may have to check with a mechanical gauge. This would then show if you require a new sender. It’s all there tbh.

Something very 80s about that.

Oh that’s ok then. Bargain for someone.

I can’t remember so best check with someone who does know but I think the Forged pistons sit a little sloppier in the block with bigger ring gaps. You may find the shop can resurface the bores to take out that score, obviously this depends on the depth of the scratch and you will just have a slightly larger ring to accommodate. You might be within tolerance, if your lucky. This would also depend on what happened to the bores last time.

So late blocks and early blocks are different? That’s a new one on me. I know the long block is but the short block I assumed was the same...

That or a replacement block with clean bores if he’s already got Forged Pistons in stock size. Might be the cheaper and faster way.

Hrm. You may wish to think carefully on that one. Whilst the individual parts should be balanced in themselves, it’s the way they work together. If you managed to get a slight imbalance 180’ out on both components then at 100krpm that could be significant. I’d consult an expert, I don’t know how it works with these mail order companies that balance the wheels only without the whole CHRA.

Those front Cir Clips are devil spawn.

£150 with post for two $12 parts? Surely that’s a typo?

Out of interest Art, what pumps did you use?

Are they non OEM replacements? Just use a multimeter on 12vdc on the plug from the body harness, negative to body ground and one of the two will give you 12v when switched on. IIRC the one towards to centre of the car with the larger plug is the front, the smaller plug to the side is the rear. There is also a smaller one for the float switch. Should be very straightforward.

Do they not come with moulded plugs?

Maybe, or was it part of a number of small changes to keep the weight distribution sensible.

Few questions Marty. So your now going to have non servo assisted brakes? Have you retained the ABS? Are you still running stock fuel pressure? If so what’s the reason for the aftermarket FPR?

If the bottle is empty this should be indicated by an amber dash light, picture of a windscreen with jets of water. The washer bottle configuration changes with model specification, so the swb and lwb are different and the U.K/Euro version are different again. My 2+2 jdm car the bottle is located behind the drivers side intercooler and has two pumps and a level switch. Uk cars the location is the same but there are 3 pumps and a level switch, the bottle is also a slightly different size. 2+0 cars have a rear a rear mounted washer bottle. I don’t believe there is one located in the front. If you have a front bottle it will be in the drivers side, if you lift the bonnet there will be a fill cap in the corner below the power steering pot. This will be a clear colour with the standard washer symbol on it.

If it’s been sat around doing nothing for a long time then it probably wants a drive. By all means get a good quality oil change in there but if it’s been idle for a prolonged period it’s going to do it. It’s an old car.

You could remove the down pipes and gut the cats. Just to provide an answer. Either way it sounds like you have an exhaust leak down there. There’s a long list of things that could be causing that stuttering though from boost leaks to faulty components. Have you done any diagnostics?