s13silvia

Wow three recommendations in a row, you guys on commission or something? :tongue: Price is a little steep after shipping, but I could stomach it. What's this about the 350z clutch fork, surely the 300 one is fine? I'm not sold on the flywheel at the moment, I've never liked the thought of running a lightened flywheel and one with detachable parts seems a little unnecessary.. has anyone run JUST the clutch on the stock fly?

Oooh, I like it a lot! Wouldn't pay 200 for just the outer shell though :-(

Sorry for the post, my clutch started to give yesterday at only standard power slipping as soon as it came onto boost so I'm looking to replace with one that will happily cope with 400bhp. I know Exedy's are fine for medium powered NA engines, but when it comes to skylines etc. I remember they were frowned upon in favour of more exclusive brands... so no BS, who has a clutch which is still perfectly streetable and comfortable performing up to 400bhp? Rather annoyingly it's just one of a list of issues right now, whenever i let off the throttle I get a clunk from the rear diff and you can feel it travels right back to the engine as it jerks it down, this is particularly obvious at very slow speeds the car is ON OFF ON OFF ON OFF no matter how much you feather the throttle. I get a shudder at the rear up to about 50, either it's the central prop bearing, some suspension component has worked loose or something going on in the diff. Wheels have been balanced so rules that out. Now allegedly (and confirmed by a garage, not just the owner) the diff was rebuilt along with the gearbox, and the central bushing was done - perhaps it has and things are just particularly 'tight' but it feels bloody awful in honesty. One would assume the clutch would be done at the same time, but this one certainly can't handle overtaking so need something better.

Additional - another quick way of checking an injector is 1) testing the ohms with a multimeter and 2) get a wee rectangle 9v battery, bit of speaker wire round each and hit the injector connector with the wires, you'll hear if it's opening and closing properly.

Yeah, keep it simple here like funkysi says - you're very fortunate in that you've managed to narrow it down to one cylinder bank - so it's only one of 4 things: COILPACK INJECTOR SPARKPLUG COMPRESSION not much else to go wrong in there.. COILPACK - swap out for a known working one from another bank - if same (on that cylinder) then move onto SPARKPLUG - swap out as above INJECTOR - swap out as above once you've worked it out THEN replace If all these fail, then do a COMPRESSION check to ensure somethings not majorly buckled. You can rule these things out: Fuel filter - affects all cylinders MAF/IACV/TPS etc. - affects all cylinders, often intermittently Timing will affect more than one cylinder PTU will affect more than one cylinder (plus you can't tell anything from the outside of a MAF or PTU) It's not intermittent, and you've isolated it - that's a massive bonus pal.

Lol nope a micra that would rip apart most z32 tt's to 120 though :lol: . Ofcourse it's not ideal, but no harm no foul. It was to get the clearance to run GTIR brakes under 13" alloys rather than the 14's I was restricted to The outer corner radius was what needed removed on mine rather than top-most or face material. Sorry didnt mean to sound agressive haha, just it's very hard from a photo to see anything other than they've had the face touched up with a grinder so questioning the structural integrity is a long shot without x-raying or US'ing them for thickness.

Now now mr funky, i know you like a moan, but judging visually without x-raying voids the argument. It's not uncommon practice providing theres meat to remove from the bone. Ive had pulsar calipers with waaay more removed than that skim, theres still plenty meat around the galleries and theyve lasted tens of thousands without any sign of fatigue. :-)

No pay no play, no mun no fun..

Woulda been well worth it assuming it was a minty shell.. sexual tendancies can be worked out later down the line, probably cheaper to come out than to respray it tbf

How strange.. up until a week ago I had 7" of snow outside my house. Now the rest of the UK is whiteout and I've not seen a single flake :-) Ian you got some proper pics of your z32? Loving the nismo wheels

the no worry z Seems to run rather nicely with some gtx2863's hidden away in that lovely bay. Not a fan of the outside but each to their own.

No worryZ run's a similar plenum. TBH for all the effort in welding up the holes, grinding down the rest - where's the real benefit? It's not even like it makes that much of a visual difference.

Useful update though! Saying that, things must be in a really good place with your car if that's all you have left to worry about :-) Half the time I'm worried if my arse will fall through the floor at 60mph :lol:

Yashio factory cars were all a cool pink/purple colour. But no, that barbie /baby pink looks utterly mint on the 300! Big love from me.

Lol ffs, there's a 260z with an RB25 on ebay just now, looks real nice too. But that's another level. Some people just got too much money and time on their hands!

The Z surely has to lie somewhere between sports car and supercar.. super-coupe perhaps? It's low-slung, only has enough rear seat space to fit 2 sexy busty midgets, is incredibly unreliable, noisy, rattly, uncomfortable, impossible to work on, expensive to fix, goes ridiculously fast (when it works), tries to kill you on anything but 100% dry smooth tarmac - even then it's a gamble :lol:

Hehe, so what's the final fixtures then? Ireland 1st Wales 2nd Scotland 3rd ? Where's England gone??? :lol:

Cheers guys!

Cool bro, let me know how it goes! Much was your stillen ARB? might be worth investing in new roll bars because the chassis twists like a wet cloth.

Heya peeps - what's the best coilover springrate for the z32? I want my car to be very low so don't want much in the way of bodyroll, however a degree of comfort on the road would be nice. My current 'stock suspension' is clangy, bashy and batters me around the road. I've honestly been in cars much more comfortable that have run 'harsh' coilovers. So what's the sweetspot for a z32 lwb tt fully loaded? 6 n 4, 7 n 5, 8 n 6?

Ooh you posh git you.. how did you order it, just directly with the company? I quite fancy the lip for the 99 spec bumper.

A Keighley car trade centre misrepresenting their cars? Bugger me next you'll be telling us that they are over pricing them! I always thought Bradford was full of honest, decent car tradesmen too lol.

Yeah same deal pal, some older cars it's hard or impossible to get the parts so providing the ends are in good shape it's the cheapest way around it - need to get to some agricultural hydraulic shops or specialist machine shops and they'll cut you a better price if you shop around :)

104 pounds!! Bloody hell, local hydraulics shop have done the same thing a few times for me on my older and rarer cars, usually 20-30 quid job per hose. Still at least it's peace of mind :-)

It's all in the spoke design pal. You can get a 18x10 et25 that won't clear your brakes - and you can get an 18x10 et35 (sits 10mm closer from wheel centreline to hub-face) that WILL clear your calipers. All depends on the design of the spokes... concave alloys will tend to clear because the spoke constantly goes outward from the hub centre, same withe wheels which have spokes that protrude out and curve back (blitz technospeed etc.) and wheels that have flat spokes to emphasize lip dish will not clear. With calipers you CAN grind material off if required... for example despite everyone saying it was impossible, I managed to run GTIR brakes on my micra under 13x6" alloys and no spacers. Shaved a bit off with the grinder and bob's your uncle. I wouldn't recommend it with Brembo's however pretty sure they're alloy and also it'd kill the resale value. With the stock Z32 calipers you can grind material off where it says 'nissan'. Going by the average wheel however, 18x10 et5 (what you effectively have now) will be far too wide so you don't have much option than to buy a different wheel, or get a 8.5" or 9" and space that out.