s13silvia

Of course the mature, civilised male understands that his priorities are his family, his job and his home. But you're not dealing with a mature male, he's not on a forum asking why his neighbours putting up CCTV after scraping his car. He's most likely taken half a gram, is enjoying a few beers and is sat playing online poker waiting for his adultwork hooker to arrive! He's not giving a second thought to the torment he's caused his neighbours. So either a) accept the situation for what it is, doing silly things to 'get back' or getting police involved over misdemenours is only going to result in worsening things.. embrace it, maybe try winning his friendship by taking him a carry out, or invite him over to watch the footy with a curry and talk motors or b) harden up and go sort it out with him on his level. It might only take you telling him you've had enough of his shit and to back off, but you must be able to back that up with genuine agression so he knows you're not to be ****ed with.

Ha, things like that won't change unless you get a hammer and rap it into the back of his ribs - or knock his head in with your fists if you're confident enough you can take him. These kinda guys are usually the first to run to the police when they get hurt and say he does you'll do a couple years inside if it's a first offense depending how far you go. I guarantee he wont **** you or your family around in the future. But then unless someones willing to take that step - they know they've got the upper edge and the fact is he IS the alpha male according to his values and mindset. This whole 'be the bigger man', 'karma will get them' (there's always a slim chance of this, as most people get bad luck from time to time), 'dont stoop to their level' and 'use your brain, not your brawn' is a load of horseshit unfortunately pal to make clever guys who lack that physical edge feel better about the situation, with guys of this mentality there's only one deterrant and that's a good hiding - no slanging matches just a forehead straight into the nose. Don't wait on anyone else to do it for you either, if you want to fix the problem you go and fix it like you would in the school playground - pick the biggest bully and leather him right infront of his mates. Even if you take a beating back he'll respect you for standing up to him, you've shown that you've got some balls. Of course you're taking this from a guy who works with lads of this mentality day in day out, where there's no such thing as dismissal for taking drugs or scrapping. You just get on with it and do your job.

A further red herring was after running beautifully for 15 mins, I touched the TPS with my finger (both screws are tightly secured) and the revs dropped then came back up, then I wiggled the wires gently 10 secs later and again the revs got very erratic.. unfortunately I couldn't reproduce this so perhaps it was suspiciously coincidental..

Okay so did a few things today as had some time off - Checked there was no missfire at idle by removing each of the coil connectors in turn - they all made it run significantly worse when removed so that's fine. Checked resistance on the injectors Checked for vacuum leaks by squirting easy-start all over the shop lol. Possibly a shonky method but it's never failed me in the past. Checked timing by sticking inductor down back of coilpack and left the guns 'manual advance' setting to 0 - now this is at the moment an issue because I can't see the markings, I can see a 10, and to the LEFT of it either a 0 or 20, it's all rusted so can't make it out. Either way it's just under 2 teeth to the LEFT of the 10. Given it's supposed to be 15 I'm guessing this is out. Monitored the idle. 90% of the time it sits around 900, there are times where the idle drops momentarily then raises back up, or has 20 secs running a little higher. Eventually it settles.. also something I've noticed in the past is if you very gently touch the throttle cable the revs can drop before raising, again it's wildly intermittent. Something else i find unusual as I've run alu rad's in cars before... the radiator never fills higher than say 4/5 way up. There's no leak from the radiator I can see (not to say there isn't one) and if I fill more it just bubbles back down to that - it doesn't lose coolant past this point, however to me this seems like a way to get air bubbles in the coolant system..

I'm planning to go after my next stint of work, I want to cram as MUCH as i can into a week - I want to go to a car meet at the daikoku futo parking area, visit a few tuning shops - what's the Z32 focused shops? I really wanted to go in Jan to the TAS, but was shipped away 2 weeks prior.

That's very true, had 3x s13silvias, 4x s13 200sx's, 1x 180sx kouki, 1x s12 silvia and 1xs14a 200sx.. and without doubt they are surely the most rust-prone cars known to man - unless it's imported within 4 years or been utterly cherished and garaged over winter, there's a good chance it's a rustbucket. It honeslty makes me wonder sometimes how the s13's are going for the insane money they are now, they were a bag of shit when £1k was top money. Now they're 8k more, and have 10 years further rusting on them - im surprised they can sustain the weight of a driver without collapsing! 90's Micras suffer exactly the same (k11), no matter how clean they look on the outside, get in about it and it'll have paper-thin metal everywhere. The paint has more structural integrity! Just a side point there, as I saw a pic near the top, please spend the extra money to get a paint job rather than wrapping, wrapping looks like utter trash compared to paint no matter how much you spend or how fancy the finish.

Looks extremely clean! Haha you're missing out on half the fun though, a nissan's not a nissan unless it's held together with filler, cableties and duct-tape. ;-) With an example like that going OEM is exactly the route to go down and resisting any temptation to modify. I'm sure ZCentre used to sell the red-stitch 99 gearknob, a lot of momo wheels do look somewhat "factory fit" if you weren't happy with the stock one. The S14a nissan steering wheel looks pleasant too and may well fit. Bride low rails for your recaros tend to cost around 150-200 each shipped (well that was about 10 years ago right enough when I got them for every car I owned, was never that impressed with the quality of the sliders truth be told but was an easy bolt-in solution).

sound advice :-) I'll do basic checks, compression, timing, plugs soon as I get a moment spare just to see it's not something really fundamental. I'm going to get rid of the early 90's fuzzylogic boost controller too as that screws with the ECU signals and given there's no acctual increase over stock boost it seems a bit pointless. Would you say the most likely candidates (purely hazarding a guess) would be coilpacks/injectors/ptu/CAS or MAF in that order? The only thing that makes me think coils is the occasional dip miss at idle.. I had exactly the same thing with a micra and skyline, and the missing at high-load.. both turned out to be coilpacks.

I'm game to give it a shot Jeff! I'm very good with IT in general, do programming and set parameter programs up for robots so I reckon with a bit of practice and time it should make sense.. Plus more exciting learning something new. What worries me about 'throwing parts' is that, yes theres a likely set of possibilities (ignition components, fuelling components), but with so many interdependant sensors like you've mentioned there's always a chance it could be something else.. I went through this with a Silvia ZX years ago, replaced virtually every component on it an still had an intermittent missfire.

Not a bad time! Is it a fairly standard engine short of the usual upgrades? I like the rollcage etc. :-)

The squeeling wouldn't have come from the bearings themselves, but the belt rubber slipping past the siezed bearings/pulleys. Nonetheless, that's something you can feel for with the belt off, knackered bearings are pretty easy to feel by hand.

So the parts are building.. Blitz Technospeed Z1's 18x10 square, Veilside EC1 spoiler (yes.. that one you're thinking of, do not even ask how much) sourced so far and currently on their way from Japan.. hopefully the next installment will be slightly less crippling.

300's not running correctly... whilst 90% of the time it drives lovely, if left to idle sometimes (quite randomly) the revs can blip then drop down and try to stall, tiny rev and it stabilises again. Sometims under boost (say 1500-2000rpm) cruising in a higher gear you will feel the occasional mis. When going flat out it behaves perfectly under full boost, and will rev-out fine in 1st/2nd, but in 3rd once it gets to 5500 or so it hits a brick wall. So it's not a boost leak, I think a coilpack or PTU is a possibility, and failing that an injector/connection. Given it's very intermittent how do I troubleshoot to find out or is it a case of suck-it-and-see with replacement units?

So, I've been on here since a long while, not really contributed very much short of the occasional sarcastic remark. I used to have a lovely Z32 TT manual - wasn't much to look at, but was very nippy and extremely clean (rust wise). Cost me the grand sum of £1500 plus a few hundred on mods, back when bargains were easy to come by. Pretty sure I sold it for just over £1k. Now, a few months ago I came across this one, being sold by @Pete54 from the same location as my old one, AND in the same colour. I just had to go and see it. Admittedly it needs a little care (welding) underneath and on a few locations on the body, but it's the car I wanted and it's getting harder and harder to pick up a z32 TT man for less than 4k, so at 3500 I had to go for it. It runs a little rough sometimes, the standard issues (int. speedo), noisy suspension etc. but those things can be rectified and changed over time. I have a VERY specific plan for this, and it's gunna get some of the rarest, nicest and most expensive items I can get my hands on. I plan on it being a very nice Z by the end of summer, and nothing extreme engine wise, it's already fast enough for my liking. I'm keeping my lips sealed about my plans but they're set in stone.

Looks lush!

That looks lovely FunkySi - much nicer than the 99 spec wing to my eyes at least, has more edge to it. As far as downforce goes, with decent enough tyres my old one was absolutely stable at high speed, soon as I took the spoiler off the back would start wandering around at 130 or so, that was enough for me to put it back on.

Now my first argument (I had an imported S13 silvia at the time, this was about 15 years ago) was that my car is an import and not E-type approved; however they said it would simply be compared to the closest equivelant on the books if I took it to court. I was also told if I decided to take it to court they would also raise charges of dangerous driving that 'both him and his partner witnessed the previous day'. Got to love a dodgy cop ;-)

acctually a wee search has unturfed a simplified version of the rule: https://www.gov.uk/noise-pollution-road-train-plane

I'm not aware of it being on any online documents, go into your local cop shop and ask about their current violations regarding exhaust noise. They should be quick to show you, there was certainly no hesitation for me! I'd go and ask on your behalf, but im currently in Bulgaria. Also worth remembering that MOT regs (road worthy) and police regs (road legal) are two very different things.

The reduction in downforce will surprise you! Especially around 130+mph

This is nothing new, and is much like aftermarket exhaust rules. By rights (and this isn't bs, you go into any police station and ask to see the ticket book over exhaust defects and noise), legally no car post '76 should have an exhaust purposefully modified to increase sound or performance over the factory exhaust, unless approved and sold by the dealer (evo's which came from the dealer with HKS exhausts as optional extra's etc). So 99% of cars on any forum are strictly speaking illegal. HOWEVER, until recently there was no MOT stipulations regarding loud exhausts, recently however they seem to have become a lot more strict in general. Also, the areas in the UK where police enforce this law are very few and far between, I've been one of the unlucky folk to be hit with it during a spate back in the early 2000's - challenged it, and they produced it in black and white in the traffic violations book. I was snookered. Now HID's similarly have been under close scrutiny from MOT stations in the area where I live for years; and know many cars that have failed when they are producing a scattered beam (not in projectors) since the past 10 years so whether the rules have tightened up is a mystery to me, but it's not some '2018' change. Like people have said, it's a 20 minute job to take them out and re-fit the standard bulbs.

Not sure why but I can't see the photo :(

"Your tuner" asked "you" to adjust "your cam gears". Time to pay more, or find a new tuner pal.

That's what sidecutters are for.

The worst jap car to be fair I've worked on is a K12 Micra (my mothers car), it's like they've swapped Japanese ingenuity for European common sense. The K11 Micra was almost the PERFECT car from a mechanics standpoint - short of the bloody rust issues, nearly every job can be done in the space of minutes with minimal tools and fuss - even the dash out is not much more than a 25 minute affair. I don't know how they got it so wrong with the next evolution. The 300 doesn't acctually look that bad, everythings quite logical given how cramped they've made it.