s13silvia

It could be true I've heard it lots. But then for all that I've run T25's and T28's without bov's for 10s of thousands of miles and never had the slightest issue. But you get some kick ass noises :lol: Aw if you could find the sizes I'd be delighted. Don't wanna go into buying them blind.

I'm guessing since its a jap and they recalled the 1g PTU that it may be running a 2g PTU. I'll go for starter first! In reply to Quavey, well if she didnt start causing me trouble I wouldn't have had to bend her .. stella artois for the win!

Could you check this dude if you have the recircs off? Im looking to block of my system entirely but a the price of alloy bungs I wanna get it right first time :thumbup:

Haha you know you've jinxed it now ;) Yeah thanks for the info I've heard of PTU problems.. I'll try a new starter first - may aswell start cheap and go on from there I suppose.... but as for it taking a minute to swap over, its not the easiest place to get in to (the top bolt) without the car a mile off the ground. Oooh btw, as for jacking the car I've gone and made a lovely crease at the mounting point now using a hydraulic jack to raise it, do these cars like the s13/14's need to be raised from chassis rails or front/rear mounting points?

Hehe, gotta love this car - been running it one month and already had a few issues with it. :punk: Right, basically progressively over the last 2 weeks its been more and more reluctant to start. The battery is fine, it was replaced a month ago and is still holding full charge. The starter motor is bolted in dead tight and doesnt move. When starting the starter motor can sometimes crunch a couple of times but usually just spins freely (whizzing sound) When I try to start the guage lights do dim for a second as it should Today I sat trying to start it numerous times (about 20) just letting it stop spinning before trying again and after about 20 shots it started up on the first spin. :huh: so I'm at a complete loss as to what could be causing the problem - new starter time or could it be somethin else?

Ah no im fine sliding it round and all that, it was coming in at 5mph into my drive, no gritting and its just solid ice car just wouldnt turn or brake and a second later met wall :p

OH! So therefore acctually I'm probably comfortably on stock boost then :) woohoo! Crashed the car today so won't be testing boost much over the next week :p hehe

This is where it gets annoying - the very north tip of Scotland :boat: I'm going to have to rely on my experience with other cars to get me through it :( But, no it wasnt the boost I was hoping to ignore but people are saying the ecu compensates by adjusting the timing - that's what I was hoping to stop. What I don't understand is every time I've experienced a boost leak before it's been painfully obvious, the car won't rev properly once on boost, the boost level will spike and dip momentarily etc. It seems odd that it just simply drops it by a couple of psi and that's it done with. But here's a question - when the boost guage only goes to 7 max how to people know if it's going higher (assuming stock boost is 9 or so) without the fitment of an aftermarket boost guage anyway :confused1: I'm simply assuming it's running to 7psi but then I don't know at which point the needle stops moving .. think I need to get a guage m'thinks

Hmm... well my temp guage goes to mid way or so which seems about right? But if its 0 or less the temp can drop right down if i floor it, but I guess it would given the coldness of the air just now? Can I not just make it alot easier and chip the ECU to ignore any potential issues? I'm happy to check for boost leaks or possibly replace the 'cooler/hosing.

also there's no error codes etc. to suggest a problem

I don't understand though, the dyno was done about 3 years ago going by the paper and the fact it looks like it was done on a BBC computer :p ... so what's this safety boost and how do I stop it - the engine is smooth as a baby's arse and makes no funny noises nor is there any leaks :S

Sorry this seems a very silly question but I've noticed 'safety boost' being mentioned a few times. Let me describe my cars power delivery: 3k boost kicks in 4k-4.5k it goes up to 7.5psi , doesnt go off the guage or anything then the power seems to drop off quickly by 5k. Whilst the initial torque and surge is fantastic I can't help but think its running out of puff awfully fast. If I increased the boost to 15psi, would it have the same amount of kick low down and would the powerband be extended closer to the redline? The car was dyno'd (with catback mongoose exhaust system) at 273 bhp at the fly, or 245bhp at the wheels.. which seems a little lowish, though it runs well and stuff so I can't really complain. What's the story does my car sound about right for a stocky TT?

In answer to dazvert's question. These are adjustable coilover shafts, which sit on the stock shockers using rubber 'mushrooms' . They can drop the car by a lot but then the shockers won't be able to compensate for the drop and will probably bottom out - also there's no guarantee they will fit aftermarket shocks. Thankfully they are a cheap solution to adjustable ride height and you hear some people are quite happy with them. Some people wouldn't put them within 200 meters of their cars deeming them to be unsafe due to poor quality but hey, the same could be said for anything aftermarket :) Those 'C-spanners' on the right of the photo adjust the locking collars which raise and lower the car mate :)

Hmm.. seems a nonsense to me, though thanks for the explanation - so should I just fit a non-hicas one what would be the outcome, a hicas that tries to finish me off or would it be disabled?

Get good tyres it should be manageable.. Admittedly in freshly fallen snow its not amazing, though totally predictable when it does go in the dry it hoops the backside of my mates R34 with traction control, down to the fact I have semi-decent tyres on and he has nankangs :lol:

Simple question really, non hicas boss's go for 18 quid or so, hicas enabled bosses fetch 60-70 quid... but i can't see any pictoral evidence that there is any physical difference in the items?! If the normal non-hicas boss 'fits' then what problems would it cause hicas wise? Could somebody confirm? Also if I'm looking to eventually remove hicas anyway would it make any odds? Cheers! David

Watanabe RS.. thing is though you'll need a mortgage to buy them new.. but they can be picked up in awesome sizes from yahoo japan auctions, its just getting them here that can be the problem! I don't think this thread would be complete without:

Ok I can see the basic differences between the two kits, and the traditional hicas lock bar looks to be by far the easiest to install. But does the driftworks lock kit make a huge difference in the handling over the lock bar alone? Is it worth the extra hassle and money? Will I need a full wheel alignment if I just fit the lock bar? If the hicas ball joints are suspect would I be better off replacing the whole lot with the DW kit or would the symptoms not show once the lock bar was installed and hicas disengaged? Finally how do people go about looping the lines after the lock bar has been fitted? Many thanks again for your technical wisdom!

Many thanks for being so supportive guys! Reg the auto aircooling system.. I'm going to write to Nissan hehe, that is some bad planning..When I'm up at 6 in the morning and the ambient is reading -15 I don't want a gentle temperature wafting away at my feet lol! I want it to burn my face :D But if I'm stuck with it I'm stuck with it.. Regarding the engine tuning, thanks for your comprehensive replies. I'm a bit miffed about the EBC though, I approached Z1 motorsports and they seemed dead keen against using an EBC on the stock turbo's as the boost came in too harshly for them to cope. I've been offered a greddy profec B which seem to be good, but then the boost jets seem a bit easier to install if nothing else :) I think the car is running well, the boost comes in quick and smooth and theres no drop of boost later on, the car idles well and revs smoothly through the gears. I'll check the timing once the snow goes, it should be circa 15 deg right? At the moment the car has tonnes of grunt between 3000 and 4400rpm, but then the power tails off.. which is why I'd like to increase the boost a fair bit. Finally - does having the Z1 1 piece propshaft negate the need for the centralising bearing? It doesnt seem all that much more for the propshaft - maybe 150 quid including shipping. If that is more likely to get rid of the noise then sweet, also working on the stock prop seems a tad complex (going by the manual).

Oh wait 1 more question whilst I remember, I have a daft vibration between 40mph and 70mph that feels like the car is about to fall apart hehe, I assume its coming from the 'shaft so is it worth replacing the bearing or do Z's run well with 1 piece shafts?

Hi there guys, I have a few questions I hope you could answer for me. Car in question is a 1991 60k mile twin turbo 2+2 manual. Has mongoose exhaust pipes, jetex air filter with 140mm diameter 100mm intake and is rated around 340bhp however much value this holds, but I was conservative on size as I didn't know the amount of room I had available to me. Car produced 272bhp at the fly a few years back with the mongoose exhaust at a very reputable dyno in England. 1) I was contemplating a stage ECU tune from Z1 motorsports in the states along with their boost jets but the shipping bumps up the cost considerably. Could I get my ecu chipped for less than 300 in the UK to run 15psi and where could I source the boost jets? 2) I'm looking to get some block off bungs/plugs for the recirc hoses, however I need to check diameters, I read on an oz forum that they are 34mm and 25mm with the vaccum pipe being 3-4mm or so. Could somebody confirm this please before I purchase plugs? Also is the VG fine with just blocking off the vaccum pipes coming from the BOV's as per most turbocharged motors? 3) Re: the intake heater system what is up with it?! Up to 27 or something it vaguely blows from the dash vents and to the feet, and above this is blows to the window. Though fairly forceful when blowing to the window it is weak as hell coming through the dash and to the feet but due to being automatic I have no control over this.. which sucks! Especially when the roof is off :thumbdown: Any mod I can do to increase the power dramatically? Thanks guys, this looks to be a great forum. :biggrin:

If they stated the car came with bits it didnt come with then I'd get in contact with them and ask why they falsely advertised it, especially for the premium they ask when it comes to Z's. Besides, without reciepts I wouldn't believe anybody who said internal work had been done. Running extra injectors is a bit of a crude method which was perhaps cutting edge in the 80's, but is a cheap way of not having to upgrade the 6 standard injectors to higher volumes. Also I'd watch if it's an HKS/Mines etc. etc. ECU it'll not be mapped for your engine and will be a 'base map' which may or may not suit the engine spec - it's a big grey area. If you're going to the expense of upgrading your engine, then get bigger injectors to replace your stock ones, dump those extra injectors and get the car mapped to run whatever boost you plan running with a unichip/ nistune whatever's your fancy and budget :0) As for driving your car without it being mapped. If it's lasted this long it's probably going to be ok, just don't put it under load. :0) Finally, regarding your original question, if the stock hose pathways to the original BOV's no longer exist - once you saw off the injectors from your hotpipes you could get some silicone hose and attach your BOV's on the end of those protrusions nice and easy, or better yet get them welded in place! David

Dude, your 300 looking very nice - would you please email me if you are looking to sell your old spoiler as I'm really looking to buy! Thanks mate, my email is dlongmu@hotmail.com Cheers!