s13silvia

And if he's an electrician he wipes his arse with £20 notes lol, don't let him fool you into thinking otherwise.

Pain not being able ot edit posts - I forgot to mention, from my limited experience of skyline ownership cylinder 6 tends to **** up at the ringlands first - I can't recall if it's down to oil starvation, or running lean due to the intake design but that tends to be where compression goes first - other than that the engine is very decent.

Okay I'll stop you there - 400-450bhp? Stock engine, a cossie headgasket and ARP bolts. Don't change bugger all else, replace the block if you need to later down the line, 4 engines will still be cheaper than screwing around with forging. Uprated injectors and pump, fmic, a full-on standalone ECU (haltech etc) and plump for a garret GTX gen2 turbo - not sure what trim would be best but they have made VAST improvements in spool times on these units. Their Tiny GT2860's on a Z32 can produce over 800bhp with barely any noticeable lag. That's the basic essentials.

Its prob had an easy life compared to any TT on here, cant leave a junction without the arse going out. Who gives a f anyway it looks sweet as a nut. @coconat, thts interesting i find z32 way more controllable than s13 or s14 chassis. Got a pic of your ps13 used to have a few

An engine rebuild, be it forged or factory spec is only as good as the builder, and the UK sorely lacks competent engine builders (or rather it's full of people claiming to be the dogs *****cks with limited experience). There are countless stories of people paying top dollar for either a) their parts being stolen and the company going bankrupt leaving the customer with nothing, b) paying top dollar and the company taking over a year to produce a product, and c) paying top dollar, then the product shitting itself within a few thousand miles (no guarantee of course). Now before people jump on the 'forged is better' bandwagon - bear in mind a factory-built stock engine with cast components tends to last a good 130,000 miles of stock boost before people then start pumping in more boost without adequate tuning, yet they can still trundle on taking abuse without appropriate air/fuel ratios for a good 10-20,000 miles before popping. That's insanely reliable. Anyway in this instance I wouldn't spend the 4k+ on a tomei stroker, I'd spend less on an RB30 bottom, as the forging kits are cheap, look up RIPS. Annoyingly here you can get ripped off on RB30's, out in Aus you can pick them up for a song. Regarding the RB25, it's perfectly good - not worth the hassle or expense changing to RB26 if you plan tuning it. An RB30 bottom/RB25 head and a big turbo will see more power than you could ever want. Next question, it's all very well taking an engine out, how deep are your pals pockets?

Never trust that a previous owner has done anything, or the work they've done. Run water through a hose through your matrix from the pipes in the bay to ensure its free of mucky shite, then bleed your coolant system.

Wish I had the balls to max out mine, I saw 170 on the clock with my last one (but the clock reading cannot be trusted, probably 150 real world), but was alongside a db9 and he seemed happy he was doing near 170. Nowadays I don't have the balls or mechanical trust to do over 100. I think for a true 180mph you would need significant weight reduction and a true 400bhp+.

Don't do the obvious thing and panic about a blown headgasket etc. First thing I'd check is for leaks in and around the matrix - a soaking floor will give this away. When you turn the car off do you hear bubbles going through it? Second- how long were you driving it for? Mines takes until operating temp to blow hot air, it also has a nismo thermostat and a large alloy rad so takes forever to heat up, especially in winter. Check under your car for coolant leaks, it looks like there's a million places a vg30 could leak from :D

I think out of the Japanese stable, Mazda has produced some very beautiful designs throughout their production. Honda's NSX, s2000, Vigor and even the 4th gen Prelude were very appealing cars. Toyota's supra mk3 and 4, and especially their early cars like the 2000gt were stunning. I would argue that Nissan's Z does hold quite highly in the list, and asthetically has not been surpassed by its successors.

If going Z32, you absolutely want a LWB car, the balance of length to width is spot on asthetically speaking. The SWB suffers from the S12 ZX problem, too wide for the length. If going Z31, the opposite is true, the LWB's looked god awful, but the SWB was a gorgeous car by 80's standards, amazing what only a roofline and door-arch gap can do. Now the Z32 SWB is the quicker alternative, most likely has more rigidity and is "faster", but I'd definitely say the LWB makes up for it by having rear seat-like things, the glass-roof coolness, and the more pleasing proportions. They used to be much more desirable cost-wize but they are now pretty much evenly matched as both are becoming a rare commodity. There's an NA version of course, but the less said about that the better, it would be like buying a non-turbo skyline sporting a GTR badge. You absolutely want the torque and power the TT has. If you want a completely blunt opinion, the Z32 has many flaws - it's creaky, bangy, noisy, heavy - honestly it feels like a tug-boat half the time. There's many problems that have become commonplace over the years and some aren't easy fixes. BUT it's still, pound for pound the fastest top-end japanese car you're going to get for the money with shed-loads of potential if you have some money in the bank. It easily trumps a 2.5 GTST skyline in performance, sadly the skyline does have an arguably nicer sound and is generally a more comfortable place to be, but with GTST prices soaring it makes more sense to bag a Z32 whilst the goings good.

Hi all, I'm urgently looking for some standard JDM Z32 rear lights and front lights (not the rear centre portion, I have that, just the tail-lights, and if possible the bulbs+tails included (chopped with an inch of wiring or so left) Cheers much

Ah - much obliged! Haha, I used to have one in my old Z32 TT, my current one has M's FBC electronic boost controller which has a piggy-back into the stock ECU. I'm damn sure it doesn't run half as stout as my old one with 0.9 Mig Tips and your ECU.

Very good post Jeff, thankyou! I didn't realise the VSS went straight to the speedo, then through to ECU. What's the approx VSS location on the gearbox, if it's easy enough to remove there's no harm checking for mechanical wear etc. It does indeed have a converter, the previous owner said he's been through 3 guage clusters and each one had the same issue, with and without the converter in toe. Are those rare-ish 300kph Jap speedo's likely reliable? Reading in kph doesn't put me up nor down. Jeff didn't you used to do those generic ECU maps on a return basis or am I thinking of the wrong guy? :)

Okay guys what's the consensus on this as im sure many 300's have this problem. Speedo works fine 70% of the time, then it drops to 0 and fires up to 180 then a couple minutes later the PAS goes heavy because the ECU thinks its on a go-slow. So two questions: 1) In my head it would make more sense that the signal from the VSS to the ECU is whats causing the problem (broken VSS, housing or wires), not the clocks themselves, as the ECU is throwing out the PAS based on the signal it's RECIEVING, not the signal it's SENDING out to the gauges. Does this sound correct? 2) Failing correcting this issue as I don't need a working speedo except for MOT time, is there a way of reprogramming the ECU, or wiring the pump sensor so it no longer has variable power steering and has a constant pump speed? (hicas is disabled on my car anyway so it doesn't matter so much)

Woohoo, so picked up my first Z32 in 10 years this weekend, done about 150 miles and already the heaters gone cold with bubbling matrix when the ignition goes off. Went to burp the coolant today and the radiator just sucks dry by a 3rd every 3 minutes. So I take a peak underneath - drips pissing out from all over the shop underneath the engine. Now there's no white steam coming out the exhaust, and rad cap is clean so I'm hoping it's nothing more than a few buggered hoses. I've read about the coolant bypass mod so I plan on doing that this weekend - anywhere I can buy a full compliment of silicone or new rubber coolant hoses to nip this in the bud?

Dude what lip is that you're running on the front?

RB25 is 210~220kg I believe from a bit of a search..

Wonder how much weight difference between VG30 and RB25.... think the RB is alloy right? Even a single VG would be awesome!!

Hmmm, going by this the VG30dett *should* fit in the space width wize at a push... Nothing a sledge cant fix. Hmmm how hard is an RB25 into a Z32? I figure the reverse would be the skyline swap since it seems NOBODY on t'interweb has done it..

Quite probably, does anybody know the width of the Z32 engine bay strut-strut? Been looking up comparisons and the VG30 tops the RB26. The RB26 always seems to get more peak hp but the VG30 torque is miles better, Pentroof tuned an RB26 and vg30dett with the same injectors/cams/turbo's, the RB had 13whp more, but the VG produced over 320lb torque MORE by 4k revs... crazy difference!

I know the twin vg30 idea sounds crazy, but I could easily buy 2x breaking tt z's for the price of half the mods needed to take the RB25 up to a safe 6-700hp and talk about unique! I highly doubt the engine bay has the space though :(

Mines not far off 400hp at the moment and it completely lacks the torque of the 300zx, nowhere near the top end 5th pull either. It's getting full gtr metal fenders gracer kit the works so really needs some serious serious speed to match up to the looks

Negatives are custom framework being needed to support both engines, the obvious weight difference. Benefits being, both could be mildly stressed at 500hp a piece, but then that should result in a barely-stressed ~1000hp, unlike a hugely stressed single RB25/26/VG30.

I got a skyline GTST currently ;) The engines a bag of sh*t compared to the Z32 engine. I think its unlikely the engine will be compact enoguh ,but the principle's very simple, fly to crank splined coupler - was common-ish in the 40's, 50's with more complex recent examples existing in tractor pulling. I'd need to get a ministarter as I doubt the one starter motor would turn both engines. But once solidly linked the worries about two engines running perfectly 'in sync' goes out the window (as with front/rear of car or side-by-side chain-linked layouts). You just gotta get both with same specs, have them tuned as closely matched as possible then solidly link them, any slack will be taken up by the other engine, as none of the pistons can physically go out of sync. It's a bit of a crazy thought, and all depends on the overall dimensions, but the z32's engines can be had for

Was thinking of 2x VG30s in-line.. all depends on the length of the block without ancilliaries though.