s13silvia

I reckon you may be able to get more than 180 indicated but you'd want a nice cleanr stretch of road.

Typically after selling my 360+hp mint 300zx (short of respray needed on wing/bumper) manual with long MOT/TAX for 1k , I was informed I could work from home, meaning I could afford the rediculous petrol costs... I have a raw CRX mk2 vtec modded up but it needs a little bodywork before itd sell for good money, and as we all know that's not cheap! I really miss being able to turn the world with my rear wheels and hear 6 cylinders and 2 turbos ripping up the tarmac :( I've looked around but prices seem to have soared for 300's.. I cant find any twin turbo manuals for near 1k and those that are seem to be rusy or have problems. I've emailed the guy who bought it off me on the off chance he'd sell it back, but I bet he'd ask me double what I sold it for.. Anybody got one they wanna sell me :laugh:

Happens all the time with city-link :(

It was a couple of years back now, but when I turned 25 and gained another years NCB my insurance quotes all went up around 10% TBH I was cheaper insuring cars at 21 with 0ncb than I am now at 27 with 4 years NCB (coming up)

Unfortunately garages range from professional outfits with reasonable service to shady ones with none. I've suffered major rip offs before, worst being when I refused to pay the outlandish charges for minimal work 3 heavies tried to fight me for cash and wouldn't let me near my motor to inspect the work, a day after the owner was taken to jail for other illegal dealings. Irrespective of this, the best attitude is to be confident, dont back down and make your intentions clear immediately. If they make excuses, no is a very powerful word to return with. No beating around the bush, just 'no'. Good luck, when they call I would say 'no' I want my money refunded on Friday etc. when I shall come for the cash. Then rid yourself of the problem :)

To me a lot of that is nothing more than hype. Yes the 300zx isn't a great handling car but the difference in speeds you can take corners under a gtr isn't that great, alot of the difference couldn't be made by normal drivers - its those who track the cars that will notice the significant stuff. And how many times on the road are you likely to have a 'comparison' outwith a straight line? Oddly, my 206 gti feels a better car round corners than any gtr I've been in hehe, just a shame it's got the structural integrity of a fag packet, that's all that stops me from pushing it any further than I do.

Skyline GT-T is on par with stock 300zx TT manual. GTR is quicker stock for stock of course. But just fire a few quid into the Z and strip out a couple of hundred kg and it destroys stock GTRs!

In reality no car 'needs' backpressure as such, but the more backpressure (to a point) lowers the powerband. BP is more useful in NA cars because they don't have wolloping amounts of torque to make use of the mid-range. You go from a stock system on a 300 to a free flowing 3" decat and 3" exhaust with only one box at either end and you'll notice a drop in torque/power until the turbo's kick in, but hopefully a significant increase in power shortly after the boost kicks in. I've run straight pipes on NA cars before (bit noisy!) and they run fine, they are slower though until higher revs, but by that point - there's no point (short of having a 10,000 rpm peaky engine pushing 200+bhp). Running a cannon on the back of a corsa probably doesnt reduce the power any more than its likely to increase the power, but little engines make more use of more backpressure for a bit of low-down 'nip'. Same story with big induction kits, rarely they increase performance unless your running turbo's or have a high-hp engine which can make use of the extra air.

A hemi with 2 turbos strapped on for good measure.. now that would be a monster. Looks wise they are very gangster in black, got to say I love them!! But I saw the saddest thing the other day in the local city centre. One badged up as a bentley!!! bentley badges repacing the C, and it was labelled the B300. Only the wheel badges gave it away, even the steering wheel had been changed. Better yet after checking it out online, a local leasing company were leasing it out as a bentley!!! :O

Nah I was going to sell them before because I transferred my recaros to my 'lude for which I also got bride mounts. They are base mount, but the base mount rails are slightly narrower than that of side mount bucket rails, and in this case the ultralow brackets aren't compatible with both rail and seat (they'd bolt onto the rails fine, but they are too low for the seat to bolt up). They fit virtually any base mount seat as it's a standard across-the-board width as far as I'm aware. Recaro DC2's and other recaros (up to Evo 8 ones I had) bolt right in, All bride base mount seats (low max etc.) fit, and as far as I know all sparco/cobra/corbeau etc. ones have the same width, so at the very most a hole may have to be drilled ,but the come pre-set with lots of holes on either side. They are much lower than recaro rails which makes them great for installing the recaros and having them positioned low. They *could be used to fit side mounts (because I did this in my lude) using the higher side-mount brackets, but I don't want the seat higher so it's a bit pointless for me to use them.

bah sod it, went and measured it and it's way too narrow. All I can think of is having a custom mount welded onto the stock tabs, and nowhere near here would touch that :(

I don't suppose anybody happens to have a 300zx seat handy that they could measure the distance (gap) between the lowermost rails?

gutted, my side mount seat is about half an inch too wide to sit between my bride base-mount rails :( It came with superlow 200sx fitment (well every other nissan of the generation virtually) sidemount rails, but not sure how I can reuse them given they already have tabs on and they are too wide to fit on stock mounting points. Anybody got any ideas on how to make them fit? Theres no metalwork or custom places within 200 miles who could do it :(

Thanks loads!! Talk about perfect timing.

Bah, things been running too smoothly lately - then boom!! Driving back from work at 30, I put the foot down a little to progress slowly to 40, but it gives 2 small judders then carries on. I notice then the speedo has dropped to 0 and isn't working (though all the other guages are working fine). Then I notice that every time I get above a guestimate 50mph the PAS stops working (then continues to not work once below 50mph, but starts again when the car is turned off/on. This suggests to me it's an electrical fault, but it's anybodys guess as to what it could be. Thankfully, I'm hoping anybody happens to be reading this :D

There a nice auto 300zx near me with HKS GT2530's for 1500 bucks. That's good value. So would this be if it went sub 3.5k .. I'd have it any day of the week.

Haha up the midsts of the highlands! For the thicker flat stuff in the boot a big chisel/hammer, for the seats/wheelarches screwdriver/hammer. Going to sand the whole lot to get rid of the residue

no pics until it's done ;)

Hehe, without testing equipment it's hard to convince people. I can say its MORE than worth doing for the performance gain, whether you can live with the increase in noise though is another matter.

If you want 17's go for some cragars from northhantstyres, I'm pretty sure you can get the black widow in our fitment in 17x9 et0 and they look just like the ones posted :)

If you want 18" there's a new performance dodge or chevy which has them in 5x114.3 but I can't remember which model, it's uk supplied though and you can buy them from the dealer at about 150 quid each. Thing is you'll need to get them banded for them to be wide enough. Also I hope you know how heavy banded steelies are compared to alloys?

Cheers, I gotta spend the time now smoothing it all out and painting it up so it looks clean, and getting little touches like a navigator foot rest etc. Anybody know the thread of the seatbelt bolts in the back? Just fancied getting some eye bolts

christ, took it out for a spin tonight, what a difference!!! I'm not imagining it, where car is torquiest (3-4.5k) its MUCH quicker. 5th gear 100-120 feels a world apart from what it was. Also it being lighter has really made a difference in the overall feel. I was going what I wouldve considered a normal speed around some local bends then I looked down and was doing 95! Usually it wallows in the corners but nope. I'm fooking delighted!! I've gone pretty far though, I've removed all sound deadening, carpets, everything un-necessary interior wize (all tweed covered crap, tranny plastics, cd player, some of the loom, rear seats, front passanger seat (got some buckets on order at last so should be better). The overall weight save had to be in the region of 100-140kg easily, the sound deadening all put in 2 bags was over 30kg for certain.

Well slap me silly I couldn't believe how much the interior weighs :o When you really cut down on the un-necessaries it adds up massively. Going to get the seats replaced with the lightest ones I can afford to make another significant drop. I'm aiming for it to look a bit like the attakd 300zx interior. All function no form lol

hmm nice idea, so the seat can sit inbetween the rails.. not sure if mine will let me do that given there's braces between the bride rails..