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Yowser

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Everything posted by Yowser

  1. You can fit the side lights into the 99spec indicators, you have to DIY it though. Relatively simple, just make a hole for the bulb holder with the cut outs using a dremel or sharp knife. This is what i have done, and fitted ducts in place of the fogs.
  2. my advice - Get a proper 12v In-Car PSU as per the link from MantaV8. Not only will it automatically control the startup and shutdown of the pc safely and is fully customisable on how it starts and shuts it down, but it will protect the PC from the surging and spiking experienced during the starting of the car. Also, It can keep the PC running for a set amount of time after ignition is off (for example if your popping into a shop or getting petrol - you dont want to have to go through the shutdown and restart up procedure) and it can put it into sleep mode and monitor the battery voltage and shutdown the pc entirely if battery gets too low. It also has extra 5v feeds with controllable setup for remote start up of Amps with delays to prevent the 'thump' you can get when started before the carputer...etc This is what I used in my own Carputer setups, and those I built and sold to customers - and can Highly recommend them. The M2 ATX is a great bit of kit.
  3. Im no mk4 or Mk5 fan either. The Mk1 & Mk2 were by far the best......but the Mk4 had the RS Turbo and the Mk5 had the Cosworth and were better cars to drive overall.
  4. 50/50 winter 75/25 Summer (more water , less antifreeze) But can depend on the particular antifreeze product. Check labelling. The Manual for future ref : http://www.300zx.co.uk/cgi-bin/manual.cgi
  5. I would normally reccomend MJP, which is a similar price, but they have a high chance of breakage by courier, so in this case its better to collect yourself from a dealer....plus you save on delivery costs.
  6. It cuts in at around 104c as Emergency cooling, but If it ever gets this hot then you have a serious cooling problem and the car is already at risk of headgasket failure or worse. I have removed mine, but you must have an accurate aftermarket temp gauge that will warn you of overheating issues before they get that bad, preferably with a visual and audible warning feature. Removing it does improve flow to the Main radiator and engine bay.
  7. Nissan Dealer - £40-50
  8. :rofl: You ruined it with your disclaimer though. Let stupid people think your serious, it gives us more to laugh about
  9. Its a fantastically restored example.........but of all the escorts the Mk3 has to be the worse.......and I've owned 4 of the shitty things.
  10. Some pics here http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=55917
  11. Yeh, Maxsunny is the original forum owner and creator of its looks, and then it was owned by Tizer, and I believe it had a couple of other owners after that before its eventual demise.
  12. yeh, bird posted up details and pics the other day. Shame to see Maxsunny's creation like this.
  13. Glad you got it to pass. The suspension advisories on new parts are worrying...what was the list ?
  14. The stock pipes are absolutely fine, and have no concernable contraction of expansion. The cheap single ply aftermarket intake pipes are terrible though, and suffer badly in a hot engine bay - Should be avoided at all costs. The Aftermarket hardpipe kits are basically for looks. They would fit in a lot better with black silicone joiners.
  15. I have this...50% off in the Cinema the other day. I dont do Vouchers and stuff though......I make the Mrs do it instead
  16. Subframe, Diff, driveshafts, hubs and rear toe arms. (or the whole entire lot, to make the job simpler) ..and rear half of propshaft - or NA one piece
  17. For the same sort of money as the low spec Tein superstreet you can get much better Mono block fully independent height adjustable Coilovers such as Meister-r / HSD / BC
  18. The Ksport/D2 calipers (same product, different resellers) actually have a very good reputation here in the UK. When they were first released several years back there were a lot of apprehension about them and a few reports of early quality issues, but in general they are well regarded and a very popular choice. They used to be a lot cheaper than they are now, but as reputation has grown, so has the price. Still quite a lot cheaper than most other BBK's though. They are basically AP Racing copies. Their coilovers on the other hand do not come with the same high regard. You really cant go wrong with the Stoptech/Rotora option, or ofcourse the AP Racing setup. Another option is these from Z1 that Jimmer pointed out the other day - Which are a good deal for a full front and rear setup with matching BMC. http://www.z1motorsports.com/product_info.php?cPath=6_9&products_id=4625 Stock lines are retained, but the calipers typically have their own seperate looped feed for each side of the caliper block.
  19. very tidy example, but yeh me too, especially the Pre-facelift version, much sexier than the newer one imo.
  20. Looks the business Baz, very cool. I've not been off-roading in a long time, but had a friend with a Bobtailed RR Classic, like yours, and was a LOT of fun. Lift kit, fully gaurded underneath, caged, Fuelcell, uprated cams and flowed&Ported V8- The thing was brutal, would get air on jumps and go anywhere. have fun :D
  21. 5.1 is fine to use, it offers the highest boiling point of all the Glycol based fluids and is compatible with Dot 3 and 4. (Dot 5 is the one to avoid)
  22. Sounds good. You'll be fine with the stock rear brake setup, but you could go for some new discs and high performance pads for a little improved bite and fade resistance if you wanted.
  23. I had'nt , but that does look good. http://www.z1motorsports.com/product_info.php?cPath=6_9&products_id=4625 For a full front and rear Big brake setup, and includes the BMC for piston size matching and bias. :thumbup1:
  24. lol :cry: More like I just got married young....discovered first grey hair the day after my wedding ! :o

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