boldy

It doubles as glue for his dentures :thumbup:

Any fitment issues bud ? i,ve been looking at these as well .:thumbup1:

Oops , well spotted Joely , i must learn to read one day ! lol

Cheers bud :clap:

Anyone had any dealings with these bushes , thinking of re-furbing my arms and these you can adjust to alter your camber ????? but how , without pressing them out and re-fitting it again and again until you get the correct camber reading , unless there,s flats on the ends of the bush to get a spanner on and turn them like snail cams , i,m confused :yes::yes: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Nissan-300zx-Z32-Coupe-Control-Arm-Upper-Inner-Outer-Ec-/370299886554?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item563797dbda

Just do the plenum bypass bud , it,s fiddly but do-able without removing the plenum and it,ll stop all those niggly leaks in and around the plenum , you can get 8mm bore pipe from any good motor factors at about £5 a metre and you,ll need 2 metres and 6 new jubilee clips , take the battery out to do the N/S and prepare to lose a bit of skin to do the O/S but theres really only the one pipe on the O/S to do as one of them is metal with a small curved rubber pipe where it joins the turbo water pipe. HTH

Some people have put the box at the front of the n/s leg but on the inside , i,m fitting a FMIC which has twin air filters so it would be very difficult to get to it to change a fuse . Having done away with the standard IC,s there was loads of room to the outside of the leg and an easily removable splash shield to gain access . I had a look where the wiring goes through the inner wing and measured the hole , then the fuse box and realised that it might squeeze through , i needed to unclip the wiring from behind the wing which was off as i,ve got some welding to do but this can be done just by removing the slpash shields I bent the bottom edge of the hole down a little just to give a little extra room , removed the top and bottom covers on the box also marked and removed the relays , then tried to get it through and after a bit of juggling it went through !!! All i,m gonna do now is mount it in a water proof box ( ahem .. tupperware ) with some packs of silica gell to stop any moisture build up . The only wire i need to extend is the ABS one on the loom :thumbup:

I,ve had a few in my time :thumbup: This was my GTE :punk: GREAT CARS :yes:

Mine are painted silver and i,ve never had any issues with the mot . :cool3:

I had this happen on my auto but only after thrashing it round Donnington for 5 laps , i was told it was probably slightly overfilled and only showed itself up after some hard cornering , it never did it again after that :thumbup1:

Probably is but you,d have to remove the TT pump to fit an NA one so if your prepared to take the TT one is out you might as well do this :wink:

The Z Centre one does give you a joiner to link the pipes together at the back of the car , i,m removing all the pipe work so doing it this way completely disables the hicas side of the pump . HTH

It,s a ten minute job with engine out , might be easier to remove the pump if the engines still in bud .

I,ve had a go at my pump today after all the warnings about pressurising a blocked off hicas section of the pump , this is what i,ve found . After AndyGP had mentioned about removing vanes i thought i,d best open up the pump and have a look. The pump looks to have two seperate sections that work sepearately from each other , front section powering the steering rack and rear section for the Hicas hence why there is a split feed on top of the pump . It,s just the rear that needs attention , on previous threads it,s been said to remove the spring and valve which i have done , i then removed the backplate exposing the Hicas oil pump . The top plate just lifts off this exposing the pump gear with the vanes in Lift this out and shake the vanes out , it,s these that pump the oil Now just put it back together and the rear section wont pump any more As for blocking the outlet i just used the original banjo fitting , cut it off the pipe and welded up the hole in it . Hope this might clear up a few things for anyone removing thier Hicas .

The one i,ve bought has got outlets for an oil cooler although i,ve been told it,s not needed and i just need to loop a pipe from one to the other ???

Fussy bugger !! lol Probably get some bling anodised ones :thumbup::tt2::yes:

No probs :thumbup1::thumbup1:

Getting frigging burnt while fitting the clutch pedal assembly !!. Not to bad to do without removing the dash , just need to remove the lower trim panel and the air ducting under the dash , i had to drop the control unit on the side of the matrix to give a bit more room , if you look up under the dash there is an electrical box of some sort that is bolted into the threaded hole the clutch pedal uses , so drop that out of the way . The clutch pedal ready to go in , took a bit of shoe horning but it went in quite easy ! I cut down the auto brake pedal to the manual size Ftted the master cylinder and re-fitted all the gubbins and bobs ya uncle , quite an easy job , no need to take the dash out.

Goes from those plugs to the alternator then the starter and gearbox , i,ve took a couple of pocs for you bud as my engines out at the mo.

What,s ideas are buzzing round that head of yours now ??? :tt2:

Stunning bud , that engine bay is the look i,m after , whereabouts is the power steering resovoir ??

Ya nuts dropped off bud :sweatdrop:, mine did the same , a right pain to hold a nut in place while somebody turns the bolt .

Mmmm Beer !!!!!!!!!!

By fook i look after you !! lol Here you go bud .

What a loss , this man was a rock god :bow::bow::bow:R.I.P